I to have the exact same Tickity tack. And as some have posted mine Is also directly after an oil change which tends to go away slowly afte about 1000km. John at Ateb told me they believe it is gudgen pin movement.
1hd-ft ticking noise.. (1 Viewer)
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70sguy
SILVER Star
gather around children i will tell you about the
1hdft...
the fuel pump is constantly starved of fuel as 80 series only ran 3/8 fuel lines on the later 100 series 1hdfte they ran 1/2 fuel lines so to shut up that noisy as fxxx fuel pump you have to run a small pusher pump from the tank, or in the engine bay and the sound goes away100 series also have insulation around the pump
We must be talking about different "Tick"
The main fuel line assy I used on my diesel conversion is the latest version and measures 12mm od. Part number 77205-60432 FWIW.
I also have a Walbro FRB-5 10psi pusher in the line.
I've got that lovely tick too. I've heard though that it gets worse with time because the valve timing starts to change. I believe some have remedied it with a valve adjustment. Not too sure if anyone here has experience with this. I'm still waiting to find someone with the proper tool or find one that doesn't cost $300!
70sguy pointed me to this thread. I just installed a 1HD-FTE and i pretty much have the same sound. sound pretty much like a ticking valve, and the sound is not on the same pace as the injectors. It is louder on the RH rear side of the engine.
I can here the sound pretty much any where when i'm outside around the truck. But it is louder on the Right side of the engine. It is louder then the injector ticking consequently, it is the most noticible sound when i'm inside on the drivers seat and idling. If i accelerate from a stop obviously the diesel std sound takes over. But idling i can heard the tic tic tic easly.
And sorry but my HDJ doesn't have a pusher pump, maybe on the 1HZ LC100 from australia, but not on a 1HDFTE, at least not mine.
HDFT tic
I too have this tic tic tic on my HDFT. It is intermittent though. I just changed the oil and it seems more noticeable. I run Rotella 15-40 non-synthetic.
My Dad has an HD-T and it does the exact same tic tic tic, again it is fairly intermittent.
(BEB's have been done on BOTH of these trucks)
I too have this tic tic tic on my HDFT. It is intermittent though. I just changed the oil and it seems more noticeable. I run Rotella 15-40 non-synthetic.
My Dad has an HD-T and it does the exact same tic tic tic, again it is fairly intermittent.
(BEB's have been done on BOTH of these trucks)
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hi, mr tapage is right, it is pistons slapping, one or multiple pistons ,just to let everyone knows about it, so do not worries ,nothing will happen it is common for all HT engine live with it.
All these engines have problems with the beb's (big end bearings). Mine (1HDT) had the same ticking and it went away after replacing those bearings.
I suppose the pistons can reach a higher point in the cylinders and are touching the cylinderhead, when those bearings are starting to go.
It will get worse in time, but they all start with a slight ticking.
I suppose the pistons can reach a higher point in the cylinders and are touching the cylinderhead, when those bearings are starting to go.
It will get worse in time, but they all start with a slight ticking.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Try partsouq.com
I have the same tick as OP. Intermittent at idle, constant only under light load up to 2K rpm, then disappears over 2K RPM. I have 140,000 K's.
I can hear it against curbs and walls mostly on right side. Engine has not blown up yet. I am running rotella T6 5W-40. I drive it daily and beat it good on the highway at times.
I can hear it against curbs and walls mostly on right side. Engine has not blown up yet. I am running rotella T6 5W-40. I drive it daily and beat it good on the highway at times.
Edit: i just noticed how old this thread is lol... Well My experience for the records i guess..
70sguy
SILVER Star
I bought it new out of Japan from Japan4x4.com. I shipped it over in a crate along with an engine/transmission. I can’t imagine shipping a fuel line set by itself via Mail ending well.
What a epic revival to a thread in 2022. Having a tick in the base of the engine around the oil chamber, sounds like the connecting rod but went away after shifting back to mineral oil from synthetic. First appeared after filling 15-40w semi synthetic after running 400kms. 1hdft’s like mineral oil and running a thicker oil will surely make less noises in the engine.
Anyhow, switched to Amsoil 15-40 full synthetic after a while just because that oil maintains it lubricity and is just a great product. The tick is back but the turbo spools better
Now someone mentioned a tick from the IP and that’s correctly because of low fuel pressure on the inlet side. Priming the fuel lifter will make that go away intermittently. So I also want to get a walbro on the inlet to speed things along.
Maybe someone has some other tips. Also running a 1/2 fuel line might help, yet to try it.
Anyhow, switched to Amsoil 15-40 full synthetic after a while just because that oil maintains it lubricity and is just a great product. The tick is back but the turbo spools better
Now someone mentioned a tick from the IP and that’s correctly because of low fuel pressure on the inlet side. Priming the fuel lifter will make that go away intermittently. So I also want to get a walbro on the inlet to speed things along.
Maybe someone has some other tips. Also running a 1/2 fuel line might help, yet to try it.
TurboDennis
SILVER Star
LOL at the "piston slap" and "rod bearings" suggestions...
The ticking described by most here is from air getting sucked into the lines somewhere. A common cause, i found, is people using 1/2" rubber lines on the system. Original metal lines are 12.0MM diameter. 1/2" lines are 12.7MM, so they are a loose fit on the metal 12mm lines, allowing air to be sucked in.
The low pressure fuel pump on the injection pump is plenty strong. Almost too strong, in fact, which is what causes the ticking. It creates a lot of negative pressure in the lines, sucking air through the loose connections. A pusher pump will usually "fix" the issue because it will alleviate the negative pressure. But this is the "wrong" way to fix the issue.
The ticking described by most here is from air getting sucked into the lines somewhere. A common cause, i found, is people using 1/2" rubber lines on the system. Original metal lines are 12.0MM diameter. 1/2" lines are 12.7MM, so they are a loose fit on the metal 12mm lines, allowing air to be sucked in.
The low pressure fuel pump on the injection pump is plenty strong. Almost too strong, in fact, which is what causes the ticking. It creates a lot of negative pressure in the lines, sucking air through the loose connections. A pusher pump will usually "fix" the issue because it will alleviate the negative pressure. But this is the "wrong" way to fix the issue.
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Thats one way of viewing it 
. I couldnt tell a piston slap from a rod knock.
But guys here swear that its not the IP and is engine low ticks from the base of the oil chamber. Personally I could care less now but I do want to get rid of the tick in the IP.
I have 10mm ID lines running from the rear to the lifter pump and will change it to 12mm to see if it alleviates the problem. Air is usually the culprit with diesels and may as well change all the fasteners on the lines.
. I couldnt tell a piston slap from a rod knock.But guys here swear that its not the IP and is engine low ticks from the base of the oil chamber. Personally I could care less now but I do want to get rid of the tick in the IP.
I have 10mm ID lines running from the rear to the lifter pump and will change it to 12mm to see if it alleviates the problem. Air is usually the culprit with diesels and may as well change all the fasteners on the lines.
Thats one way of viewing it
But guys here swear that its not the IP and is engine low ticks from the base of the oil chamber. Personally I could care less now but I do want to get rid of the tick in the IP.
I have 10mm ID lines running from the rear to the lifter pump and will change it to 12mm to see if it alleviates the problem. Air is usually the culprit with diesels and may as well change all the fasteners on the lines.
My Injection Pump also makes a ticking noise that is alleviated only sometimes by pressing the hand primer.
Its more of a high pitched metallic rattle though. Like a rhythmic TTTTT TTTTT TTTTT TTTT TTTT lol. Sounds a bit like a rattling heat shield.
Depending on my coolant temp, it goes from a constant TTTTT to rhythmic, to silent. Sometimes it gets a deeper pitch. I think mine has more to do with the ACSD since I can change the sound by manually moving the ACSD lever. I'm probably playing with fire and should just delete it. This rattle or tick is more apparent in my left wheel well.
I will post some videos of my ticks for anybody's future reference.
1HD bottom end tick
1HD-FT IP Noise
Cheers,
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Just for what its worth, if you ever need to "make" your own fuel lines, buy some of the 1/2" aluminium hard line... Now the next part requires a double story house .
Tape up one of the hardline, hold it vertically and then while standing on the roof or from the second story fill the hardline with sandblasting sand (or other fine sand). It allows you to bend the line by hand without it kinking... Then at the end just remove the tape from both ends and use an air compressor to blow out the sand. Then run several litres of fuel through to ensure the lines are fully clean before using. I was able to "make" a fuel line following a very tight path by hand without fear of the line kinking.
Good luck.
.Tape up one of the hardline, hold it vertically and then while standing on the roof or from the second story fill the hardline with sandblasting sand (or other fine sand). It allows you to bend the line by hand without it kinking... Then at the end just remove the tape from both ends and use an air compressor to blow out the sand. Then run several litres of fuel through to ensure the lines are fully clean before using. I was able to "make" a fuel line following a very tight path by hand without fear of the line kinking.
Good luck.
The 12MM lines you're referring to are on the discharge side of the injection pump, correct?
My IP has been noisy for awhile now and I'm ready to nip it in the bud.
The issue is not so much why it sounds as why it is heard. I have a 1HD-T of 1994 and the ticking was driving me mad since I bought it. Then I had a head gasket issue and had to take it to a workshop. Amazingly, the ticking was much, much muffled when they delevered the car back to me. Of course I asked the mechanic.
Go to the floor below your engine. You should see a thick foamy thing, gasket-like, behind the engine, between it and the gearbox. It comes that way from the factory, but is normally discarded and not replaced whenever a mechanic removes the engine from the car. That thing is what muffles the ticking noise. There are many 'whenevers' in a 31-year old car, and mine was without it. The mechanic had a new one around, and installed it. Unfortunately, I am not able to locate the part No. But next time I go to the workshop I will learn it and post it here.
Cheers
