1hd-ft ticking noise..

[steezy]

The issue is not so much why it sounds as why it is heard. I have a 1HD-T of 1994 and the ticking was driving me mad since I bought it. Then I had a head gasket issue and had to take it to a workshop. Amazingly, the ticking was much, much muffled when they delevered the car back to me. Of course I asked the mechanic.

Go to the floor below your engine. You should see a thick foamy thing, gasket-like, behind the engine, between it and the gearbox. It comes that way from the factory, but is normally discarded and not replaced whenever a mechanic removes the engine from the car. That thing is what muffles the ticking noise. There are many 'whenevers' in a 31-year old car, and mine was without it. The mechanic had a new one around, and installed it. Unfortunately, I am not able to locate the part No. But next time I go to the workshop I will learn it and post it here.

Cheers

I know it’s the injection pump. When I pump the fuel filter, the injection pump quits ticking.

 

[70sguy]

I know it’s the injection pump. When I pump the fuel filter, the injection pump quits ticking.

And I have a walbro pusher feeding 6-9 PSI at the pump and it still ticks. I wonder how much the manual primer is producing to stop the ticking. I’m going to try the primer.

 

[MobySlick]

And I have a walbro pusher feeding 6-9 PSI at the pump and it still ticks. I wonder how much the manual primer is producing to stop the ticking. I’m going to try the primer.

Hey @steezy and @70sguy, how's progress been on this issue?

If it helps, I'll add what I'm experiencing (hopefully it does).

Last week, whenever I primed the pump, it would lose all prime by the next day (no driving, just sitting).

I then replaced the o-ring on the water-sensor screw thing that lets you drain the fuel filter ($3 from Radd cruisers):

Now when I prime the pump it still has prime the next day (it loses a little, but it's always stiff and I'm not sure how "hard" it's actually supposed to be?). So one issue down

However, I was driving it today, and I guess now that the o ring isn't the weakest link, it's now getting air into the line from somewhere else (I guess the next weakest part). I'm thus far convinced it's air in the line and not a different issue because when I prime the hand pump a couple times it'll quiet down completely for about 2-3 seconds of running.

My plan this far is to get some clear tubing (do you know what diameter for the 1hd-ft?) and see where the bubbles are coming from.

Was excited to do my timing belt and get driving next weekend -_-


Also, why tf does the water sensor housing look like a rat race of hallways, it's a huge pain in the ass to get off. The previous owner tightened it so much that you couldn't see the o-ring, when the manual says to just hand tighten.

 

[steezy]

Hey @steezy and @70sguy, how's progress been on this issue?

If it helps, I'll add what I'm experiencing (hopefully it does).

Last week, whenever I primed the pump, it would lose all prime by the next day (no driving, just sitting).

I then replaced the o-ring on the water-sensor screw thing that lets you drain the fuel filter ($3 from Radd cruisers):

Now when I prime the pump it still has prime the next day (it loses a little, but it's always stiff and I'm not sure how "hard" it's actually supposed to be?). So one issue down

However, I was driving it today, and I guess now that the o ring isn't the weakest link, it's now getting air into the line from somewhere else (I guess the next weakest part). I'm thus far convinced it's air in the line and not a different issue because when I prime the hand pump a couple times it'll quiet down completely for about 2-3 seconds of running.

My plan this far is to get some clear tubing (do you know what diameter for the 1hd-ft?) and see where the bubbles are coming from.

Was excited to do my timing belt and get driving next weekend -_-


Also, why tf does the water sensor housing look like a rat race of hallways, it's a huge pain in the ass to get off. The previous owner tightened it so much that you couldn't see the o-ring, when the manual says to just hand tighten.

I THINK 12MM tubing is what we need. I haven’t messed with it as I view it as a characteristic of the truck.
I’d be curious to know If the 12MM tubing fixes the problem for you.

 

[MobySlick]

I THINK 12MM tubing is what we need. I haven’t messed with it as I view it as a characteristic of the truck.
I’d be curious to know If the 12MM tubing fixes the problem for you.

I'll let you know, as mine is really loud and definitely beyond regular volume (all IPs tick for sure)

 

[70sguy]

Hey @steezy and @70sguy, how's progress been on this issue?

I haven’t made any progress, haven’t tried either.
FWIW when I did the swap I bought brand new late model HDJ81 fuel lines which IIRC have 12mm supply side
I used late model 12 mm HDJ81 tank pick up, not modified FZJ pick up. I run a walbro FRB 5 pusher pump mounted just outside the tank. I used brand new water separator and fuel primer/filter mount. So I’m not convinced the tick comes from air getting in fuel. The pusher prevents the fuel supply from operating under vacuum, and if there were a leak somewhere, it should cause fuel to weep out, not air to get in.
I have just accepted that this is the nature of the beast.

 

[SNLC]

Just an FYI for any of you who are running or plan/want to run a lift (I see it being called a "pusher" here too) pump. All that keeps the diesel in the pump and not in your oil system is a small single lip seal at the front of the injection pump. That seal gets compromised for any reason and you will be pumping diesel into your oil system via the timing case. This can destroy your engine.

I am well aware lift pumps came factory on Cummins and perhaps other diesels like Detroit Diesels. However, there is not a single diesel Land Cruiser ever made by Toyota that came with a lift pump.

Cheers

 

[70sguy]

Just an FYI for any of you who are running or plan/want to run a lift (I see it being called a "pusher" here too) pump. All that keeps the diesel in the pump and not in your oil system is a small single lip seal at the front of the injection pump. That seal gets compromised for any reason and you will be pumping diesel into your oil system via the timing case. This can destroy your engine.

I am well aware lift pumps came factory on Cummins and perhaps other diesels like Detroit Diesels. However, there is not a single diesel Land Cruiser ever made by Toyota that came with a lift pump.

Cheers

Not gonna argue, there are threads bashing the pros and cons about already. The pump design does theoretically make that a possibility. I just haven’t seen or heard of it happening in 20 years of playing with these engines. I went with the advice of the Aussies who have been running low pressure pushers forever because the 1H engines tend to starve on steeper inclines. FRB-5 was the pick because it maxes at 8-11 psi at 100% restriction. Once it pushes up from the tank and through the filter while IP is also actively sucking and moving fuel back to the tank, the pressure at IP inlet is pretty low. I have seen guys diesel swap FZJs and use the stock EFI pump to move the fuel, now that is definitely nuts.

 

[MobySlick]

I haven’t made any progress, haven’t tried either.
FWIW when I did the swap I bought brand new late model HDJ81 fuel lines which IIRC have 12mm supply side
I used late model 12 mm HDJ81 tank pick up, not modified FZJ pick up. I run a walbro FRB 5 pusher pump mounted just outside the tank. I used brand new water separator and fuel primer/filter mount. So I’m not convinced the tick comes from air getting in fuel. The pusher prevents the fuel supply from operating under vacuum, and if there were a leak somewhere, it should cause fuel to weep out, not air to get in.
I have just accepted that this is the nature of the beast.

I would agree with your assessment regarding the leaking, but then it's even more strange that your ticking stops when hand priming .

I plan on replacing all of the soft lines and clamps this coming weekend and see if that quiets it down. I'll let y'all know (ping me if I forget). I'll also be replacing the fuel cap, as on the diesel 80s it's responsible for venting air in when vacuum builds, which my potentially original cap is struggling with (hisses loudly whenever I stop for fuel after a decent trip). This is likely exasperating the cracks in the fuel lines, as the IP will be fighting fuel tank vacuum

 

[MobySlick]

Replaced all the fuel lines as well as the gas cap, still have the issue but I'm pretty darn sure I know what it is. When I park on a hill (front up) and hand prime until the cap is difficult to push, if I stick my ear up beside the cap I can hear tiny bubbling that continues until it has fully lost prime. Having checked some facebook threads (funny how for this specific issue facebook seems to be the place) the diaphragm in the fuel filter housing that enables priming fails with time and will let air in. I've never seen info on this anywhere else (Radd Cruisers site lists all of the other common issues, but not this one) so I thought I'd bring it here.

I've just ordered a replacement (wanted to get the heated one, but the actual heater doesn't exist anymore ) and I'll install it as soon as it gets here and hopefully this'll be fixed once and for all. If it's not the filter housing then one person (on facebook) mentioned the pump can actually be the issue, and they had their pump serviced to fix it, praying that is not the case. I also replaced the gas cap in case it was not venting vacuum properly (and it was overdue), but it looks like the fuel filter housing diaphragm is the weaker link comparatively.

Edit: Also in case anyone was wondering, my 1995 1hd-ft had 12mm supply to filter, 10mm between filter and pump (buy the OEM hose, or get one custom bent as the path it takes is windy), and 6mm return (had to use 1/4" as nobody sells 6mm hose that I could find, but it's more important to use metric hoses for supply as they're under vacuum). I also used the OEM hose clamps, the 10 and 12 mm ones are nice and tight, but the 6mm return ones are a little less so, maybe because the return line is under positive pressure and doesn't need it). I didn't check my fuel pickup as I don't have difficulty priming the hand pump, it just loses prime quickly.