1FZ-FE to LS1 Conversion

[danbeck26]

Hey guys. So I've got a 1994 1FZ-FE 80 Series (manual). I've been getting oil in the coolant for ages. After changing the oil cooler and getting the head done, I've come to the conclusion that it can only leave the block to be the issue.

So, here is my question. Has anyone done an LS1 conversion in their 80 Series. If so, what was involved, how much did it cost all up including exhaust system etc, was it a big improvement, and where did you source the parts required. I'm located in Vic, Australia and I've heard Marks 4x4 Adapters are pretty good. Any help, advice or pics would be great.

Cheers in advance guys

 

[sadam_husain]

its been done plenty of times before mate, easy bolt up conversion with a marks or similar adaptor kit, ton's of room under the hood to fit it in there and lots of cheap LS1's in Oz. Good power and drivability and probably better fuel consumption than the old donk in there. You can re-use the lS1 loom and ECU there's plenty of places that will reprogram the ECU and tune it for your truck

 

[slow95z]

they do them all the time. search and you will find your answers.

 

[jkdowty]

There are quite a few well documented threads on here. A quick search of LS swap or vortec swap should bring up what your looking for... My favorite was "another Texas LS swap" I hear down there in OZ y'all have the Holden Comodor (Pontiac GTO here in the USA) make great donors... Most swaps are getting done for 6 to 8k (USD)

 

[mechanist]

$6 - $8k? Wow! I thought they were running close to $20k after all said and done. That's much more affordable than the threads I was reading! Looks like I need to search this topic...

 

[NCFJ]

I can tell you that my parts tally on a 5.3L pull out and a Monster 4L65E swap run well over $10K. The motor, trans and adapter are the big ticket items. It is all the little stuff that adds up in a big hurry. Check out the prices on a new starter alone

you can save money by:

using OEM radiator
using OEM fuel lines
not adding aux trans cooler
using OEM PS cooler
using OEM gauges
using OEM shifter
use pull out trans
not rebuilding pull out trans
use OEM fuel pump (some claim it works)
not replacing gaskets and sensors on the motor
not replacing all hoses and belts
not replacing all battery cables
use cheap exhaust system, use part of OEM system
not replace U joints

Choose wisely where you save money on parts

ALSO!!! you should also have a budget for those WYIT (While You're In There) items, they will come up. You are adding a lot of power, could your T-case use a rebuilt? How about the axles?

 

[lazy]

I think $10k is a reasonable estimate, if you "want to do it right." But, as many things in life, best and good enough are hardly ever the same thing. You can probably do a decent job with a $5000 - ish job, and $5k buys a lot of towing (and there is a low chance you would need it).

I rebuilt the tranny in mine, going with aluminum rad, dual electric fans, delta current controller, dakota digital gauges (with new sending units). I'm rebuilding the stupid t case, as I'm adding "Crawler gears" and my jihad to replace the front seals has not only drug on for weeks, but I'll now do the bearings as well (mainly due to the amount of hammering I had to do to get the front housing off). I'm also doing the steering box. And u joints just arrived, but I just got a new DC drive shaft that is $350 that won't pop into my spreadsheet.

A couple days ago, I thought I would be at $8500, but I'll be in the $9k range....I'm trying to document my costs, and am sharing if any one is interested.

Impending Vortec Swap

 

[slow95z]

i am of the cheaper side of things. i run junkyard 5.3s all the time and never have issues with them. since you wont be using the 4l60e you wont be using the chevy weak link. i see no reason to spend 10K personally. its a play toy right? no way i would trust a 20 year old trunk with an engine adapted into it as a DD when i can buy a good DD for 5K.

 

[jkdowty]

NCFJ has done quite a few of these if you check out his company(in his signature)... His total is probably quite a bit more accurate than mine is.

I'm the penny pinching a-hole and trying to save a buck here and there. I'm also the if it ain't broke don't fix it guy...

With that being said I'm at about 4K with: motor(vortec 5.3), tranny(4L60e), marks 4wd case adapter, marks 4wd part time kit, marks 4wd LS conversion hoses, active fuel management delete (don't use a motor with Active Fuel Management it will save you $800), 2wd tranny output shaft, and F body oil pan and sump... I got my motor and trans for $800 which put me ahead of the game until I had to do the AFM Delete...

Like NCFJ and Lazy said the little items will catch up to you. All the "while I'm in there" parts I'll be doing after the swap: knuckles and wheel bearings, u joints and the like... Mine is going to be more of a tow vehicle for my '89 hilux crawler and will hardly see much off-roading...

And if you use a 4l60e you have to lift it 2.5 inches for driveshaft clearance....

 

[cme4lyt]

Just just did mine correctly and I'm 13K all in including labor. I think somewhere between 10 on the low side and 15 on the high side will make you smile !

 

[ALX4X4]

Hi Dan, I work in Bayswater, had my 1FZFE reefed out and L98 6.0 put in, 20K drive in drive out with engineers cert. Love it, you're welcome to come over for a look and test ride. Been in for 2 years now, no issues.

 

[Pat80]

Im swapping mine at the moment, turboed 1hz to and an LS1, shop around for a good deal on the motor, i got my LS1 with 120k, 4l60e wiring loom and ECU for 1500, then sold the 4l60 coz im keeping manual, i have all the parts for the job now and its cost me 8,5k

 

[mtkreitz]

10K USD minimum. I have an LQ9 that I had swapped into my LX450. I am well, WELL north of that figure. I actually had to do mine 2x because the donor motor I bought had a spun cam bearing and a worn-out tranny and didn't realize it until it was already in the truck.

If you do all the work yourself you may be able to stay around 10K but don't go into it thinking you can do it any less expensively. Verify that you have a good donor before you put the time an energy into replacing what you have.

Also keep in-mind that if you can work on it yourself and have the expertise on both GM & Toyota it will be a cost saver. If you need help, folks will make you pay for it because they don't know what they are dealing with.

 

[jkdowty]

10K USD minimum. I have an LQ9 that I had swapped into my LX450. I am well, WELL north of that figure. I actually had to do mine 2x because the donor motor I bought had a spun cam bearing and a worn-out tranny and didn't realize it until it was already in the truck.

If you do all the work yourself you may be able to stay around 10K but don't go into it thinking you can do it any less expensively. Verify that you have a good donor before you put the time an energy into replacing what you have.

Also keep in-mind that if you can work on it yourself and have the expertise on both GM & Toyota it will be a cost saver. If you need help, folks will make you pay for it because they don't know what they are dealing with.

I'm in the middle of mine and I have stockpiled all the parts needed. I'm well under the 10k mark but to begin with I got my motor and tranny out of a rolled GMC Envoy Denali for $800 and have sold several parts off the Envoy bringing my motor and tranny cost Down to $300. But just swapping the motor and trans you can do yourself for under 10k "if your handy" like saving on motor mounts by making them yourself out of plate, tubing and leaf springbushing I had laying around that's like $130 if you have to buy... Also using the FJ or FZJ radiator can save you $400... Using factory Gages saves you a pretty penny, I think Dakota digital' so are like 600 and some change... It's all in what you want out of your rig, I do have to lift mine cause I'm using the 4l60 but I believe you can keep from doing that if you use the 4l80(not sure on that). But like I said your skills make all the difference in the build, I also am doing my own harness cut down and wiring, with the help of a buddy that is an electrical guru when it comes to auto wiring, so there's another several hundred I'm saving... Also in Kansas I don't have to mess with emissions. And exhaust will be done by me, so there's another couple hundred saved... Like I said your results may vary, based on skills and knowledge...

 

[lazy]

Can do for under $10k. Mine is well over that right now, I need to update my spreadsheet. But, I'm doing a little experimenting as I have a second one on the horizon. The emissions thing is a royal pita.

 

[dogfishlake]

There is an LS3 and 6L80 dropout out of a 2015 Camaro SS on CL near me for sale with 500 miles for $8800. I don't know much about swaps but if it was a good fit, seems like a good deal for something near new.

 

[MarkN]

depends on what you want, but is can build a reliable daily driver for ~$5000 if you do most all of the work yourself. I have done both a FJ62 and LX450, highly recommend swap.

 

[NCFJ]

It really depends on how deep you go with the swap. I am well north of $10K in parts on the swaps I do. It all depends on where you chose to hold back, use the stock radiator, save $400-750, use stock fuel lines another $200 or so, old exhaust from Y pipe back another $200 plus, don't replace the sensors and gaskets on the motor another $200 plus, used trans another $800 or so. It all adds up in a hurry. The little things you don't think of is where it will kill you.

 

[MarkN]

It really depends on how deep you go with the swap. I am well north of $10K in parts on the swaps I do. It all depends on where you chose to hold back, use the stock radiator, save $400-750, use stock fuel lines another $200 or so, old exhaust from Y pipe back another $200 plus, don't replace the sensors and gaskets on the motor another $200 plus, used trans another $800 or so. It all adds up in a hurry. The little things you don't think of is where it will kill you.

I absolutely agree.. If I was doing this as a business, I would do the same thing. On my build I use used engines 80,000 to 140,000 miles, and used transmissions or I rebuild myself, original radiator, fuel lines, I do my own harnesses, etc. If I was doing this for a customer I would do it different in some areas.