Found it as well, thanks for the help guys
1FZ-FE engine block drain plug location
- Thread starter ironbinder
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Just in case this helps. Located a few inches in front of the PHH, if I recall.
Sometimes it's a bit tricky to re-engage the threads when replacing the plug - be patient - don't force it & cross thread!!!
Clean it up w wire brush before re-install. (a little anti-seize for lube wouldn't hurt)
And - agree with this - was my eventual conclusion as well. the radiator drain petcock is way too slooow.
->old coolantdown the drain take it to your town's hazard waste collection - gotta be bad for sewage water treatment too.
Unfortunately nobody takes it for recycling like they do for old oil.
Sometimes it's a bit tricky to re-engage the threads when replacing the plug - be patient - don't force it & cross thread!!!
Clean it up w wire brush before re-install. (a little anti-seize for lube wouldn't hurt)
And - agree with this - was my eventual conclusion as well. the radiator drain petcock is way too slooow.
->old coolant
Unfortunately nobody takes it for recycling like they do for old oil.
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Will this fit? I ordered the older style. Are they the same thread? Thanks!
what is the thread size/pitch? i cross threaded my brass plug but i did stop. Hopefully i did not damage the block.
Engine block coolant drain plug thread is M14-1.5mm. I was curious and messed around with it some time ago - thus the photos.
Note that an ordinary bolt will NOT work properly as a plug. The unthreaded and beveled end is needed to seat and seal.
Note that an ordinary bolt will NOT work properly as a plug. The unthreaded and beveled end is needed to seat and seal.
No need to remove anything. I use about 30" of extensions, pop a couple rubber splash guard buttons loose to swivel it out of the way and it's a straight shot tight against the tire. Bright flashlight with a narrow beam helps locate it. Use a normal short socket to install so you can start the threads. Use a long socket to remove so the outblast of water pushes it into the long socket so you won't lose it.
ok thanks. Would like to try a shorter bolt just to clean the threads? The brass one seems soft and dont want to cross thread the new plug i bought
Wow - really hard to say. Go cautiously and feel your way through it. retreat if you sense any trouble - better to start over than cause yourself deeper trouble. How about using a longer bolt so you can judge it's direction/squareness better? And, by hand - carefully file or grind the threads off the tip 1cm or so, just down to the root of the threads, to act as a pilot/guide?
I can't absolutely positively say fer sure, but I just measured & inspected the actual brass plug the best I could, decided, based on that, that the threads must be metric M14-1.5mm, trotted on down to Ace hardware and bought an off the shelf bolt to test fit - it did fit with no sense of interference. I think I put some wax-type anti-seize on it to color the threads and show how deep they engaged - see photo above. So- I don't think this plug is BSPT. And, you can see from the photo that the plug threads are NOT TAPERED, they are straight machine threads. it does not seal by tapered thread interference. Seals by the taped cone and seat, deeper than the threads.
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I forgot about this photo I took almost 10 years ago comparing the threads of a knuckle inspection port plug and the engine block cock/plug. We know the inspection port plug is BSPT and looking at the photo it is easy to see that the threads are different compared to the block drain cock/plug
FMC80
SILVER Star
Thread revival...I installed this new style cock drain in my block today but it would not seal at all. I had a perpetual leak and nothing I did seemed to help. I removed it, reinstalled it x 3 and it still leaked ever so slightly. I ended up using the old brass one and it sealed perfectly. Wonder what gives?
The plug is a BSPT with a tapered seat on the end.
The brass plug you installed is a NPT thread (US thread, T=Tapered) and they both carry the same thread count. You got lucky because the brass plug you picked up may have not bee cut as deep as designed and it sealed due to thread interference, and it deformed the new plug to match.
The petcock that you tried may be a BSPT thread (straight thread) but it doesn't have a seat on the end to bottom out and seal.
BSPT threads are designed to sel through the use of another exterior "sealing nut" that locks the nipple in place and actually does the sealing.
FMC80
SILVER Star
I should have clarified that the brass plug I used is the OEM plug so it's no surprise it sealed. I saw others on here using the new cock drain but made no mention of another nut. I'll look into it more, maybe I need another part eh?
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" It is a common mistake to identify a BSPT (tapered) as an NPT. Remember that NPT threads have a 60° thread flank angle, and BSPT has a 55° angle (this can be verified with a thread gauge). Although BSP is a foreign thread, it isn't metric. This is why it comes in imperial sizes: 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and so on. "
One caveat: ONLY at the 1/8 size could they be interchanged (27 vs 28 TPI) if needed.
