1FZ engine differences - oil pan and crank sensor

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slow95z

Always parting 80s
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ok, i have seen this posted a bunch but i want a real answer. can you take the OBD 1 setup and simply swap the pan and harness or must you swap the crank? some people say its harder than that and others say just swap the pan and harness.

does the OBD1 crankshaft have the tone ring on it is the real question. is it made onto the crank or is it pressed on if the early engines do not come with it.

i have 3 OBD1 engines sitting around but not the OBD2 style. if i take the time to tear the bottom end off of one and take pics can someone do the same on the OBD2 style for me so we can compare??
 
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I found this in the search for the answer

Still studying

I’m going to go by a large independent Lexus/Toyota shop in the area,and ask the owner.
 
The crank sensor ring, and the oil pump and power steering drive gear, both SLIDE over the front of the crank. Just pulled one apart yesterday. They are NOT keyed onto the crank, only the front drive PULLEY s keyed. This is why proper torque of the pulley is important.
 
great, that is exactly what i wanted to hear. any pics of the setup? so there is more too it than just changing out the pan and harness, you need to dig into the front and put the ring on the crank.
 
great, that is exactly what i wanted to hear. any pics of the setup? so there is more too it than just changing out the pan and harness, you need to dig into the front and put the ring on the crank.

Yes, it goes behind the timing chain sprocket.
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great, that is exactly what i wanted to hear. any pics of the setup? so there is more too it than just changing out the pan and harness, you need to dig into the front and put the ring on the crank.

Makes it a great opportunity to change the oil pump gasket and main seal as well.


The crank sensor ring, and the oil pump and power steering drive gear, both SLIDE over the front of the crank. Just pulled one apart yesterday. They are NOT keyed onto the crank, only the front drive PULLEY s keyed. This is why proper torque of the pulley is important.

The timing chain sprocket is also keyed to the shaft isn't it?
 
Makes it a great opportunity to change the oil pump gasket and main seal as well.




The timing chain sprocket is also keyed to the shaft isn't it?

Well, it is IF you remember to place the key in the way?
 
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The timing chain sprocket is also keyed to the shaft isn't it?

Yep, the timing and crank angle rings are keyed, the oil/power steering pump drive gear is not.
 
man that is perfect picture showing exactly what i needed to see. so there is nothing different internally (crank) just a few things that bolt on the outside. never rebuilt the OBD2 style, only sold them complete.
 
man that is perfect picture showing exactly what i needed to see. so there is nothing different internally (crank) just a few things that bolt on the outside. never rebuilt the OBD2 style, only sold them complete.

I have only done the OBD2 type, would guess the OBD motor just has a spacer there?
 
I just rebuilt one and it does. Will tear the bottom end off of one this weekend to document it for others that need to do a conversion.
Hey men. Did you ever do it? I have a OBD1 and would like to convert as well. Thanks
 
Hey men. Did you ever do it? I have a OBD1 and would like to convert as well. Thanks
yeah, shortblock is the same. you cant convert the truck, just the engine. what are your goals here? did you find a running obd1? the issue is you need to take the whole thing apart. head needs to come off. just cant swap the piece in 5 minutes and stuff it in there.
 
Hey men. Did you ever do it? I have a OBD1 and would like to convert as well. Thanks
Much easier to place an OBD2 engine into a OBD1 truck than it is to go the other way (OBD1 engine into OBD2 truck)
 

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