1FZ Cylinder condition

[Flank]

I am in drawn out state of my head gasket replacement in the garage... Head is ready to go back on but I need opinions on if my cylinders need help, and if so, what to do. Engine engin still has cross-hatching on the cylinders with the exception of two that appear to have some rust from my HG failure. Can I clean this up safely and run without needing new rings? Any problem with running it as is?

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Looks a bit rough, can you catch anything with your fingernail?

 

[jpoole]

Some light/easy cleaning then new photos may help folks assess condition. Some of what I see looks like it may just wipe off but it's hard to tell if it's hiding any damage/etc. The area near and just below the lip near the top of the piston ring travel is where a lot of wear will often show up so is a good place to focus.

You can play with moving a light source around to try to bring out the details a little more clearly. If you are setup to rotate the engine Two photos (1 looking forward, 1 looking back) of the two cylinders in question after they've been wiped down a bit could really help folks answer your questions.

 

[ajordan1975]

any gouges, or like asked... can you catch your finger nail on any it?
honing out the cylinder could clean it up and it might be fine....

 

[manofthewoods]

I am in drawn out state of my head gasket replacement in the garage... Head is ready to go back on but I need opinions on if my cylinders need help, and if so, what to do. Engine engin still has cross-hatching on the cylinders with the exception of two that appear to have some rust from my HG failure. Can I clean this up safely and run without needing new rings? Any problem with running it as is?View attachment 3832204View attachment 3832203

I'll start with 2 questions...
1) is the engine out of the vehicle?
2) what is your end goal? To get it running to immediately sell. Build it to like new for maximum long term reliability. Or, something in between.

Happy trails whatever you decide

 

[Malleus]

Whatever you do, don't do anything more than wipe the cylinders with a lint free cloth, or you'll introduce contamination into the cylinder which will impact the ring/cylnder wall seal when the piston moves. You can use any cleaner you want (I'd stay away from anything water based); kerosene or diesel would be my choice. You'll have to change your oil before startup anyway.

Photos are tough to use to assess the condition of a metal surface; a lot of discoloration can appear which can't be measured. It'll look terrible, but mean nothing. Unfortunately, this is something that needs to be assessed by someone with their hands on the engine. I'd advise you to contact the Texas clubhouse near you and ask for an opinion from someone knowledgeable.

FWIW, you can hone the cylinders with the engine installed, but you have to remove the crank/pistons first. I know a lot of people do this "all the time", but you shouldn't.

 

[alia176]

@Flank - i'd clean up everything using red scotch pads then take some more pics. Those cylinder scratches may not be awful once the walls are cleaned up. Use wd-40 with the pad to help with the removal of gunk.

 

[Flank]

Thank you for all the terrific questions and responses.
The engine is in the truck, my goal is to get this truck running and keep it running for the next 350K miles (thats what's on the chassis, but the engine has about 200K or so on it. I'll probably be buried in the truck, but right now, it has not run for two years and I need to get it put together and get it going. FWIW, the oil was changed due to HG failure right after I decided to park it so that the water did not remain in the engine.

I will clean with karosene and a maroon pad and see how it looks. Figured I could not hone with pistons in.

I'll clean and post better pics. I took these without my glasses on so I could not see a darn thing...

 

[Malleus]

FWIW, the lower end of these engines is pretty tough; if the upper bores aren't terrible, you might get by with a wink and a nod.

 

[LXDOC]

I’m concerned #5 cylinder pitting / corrosion is too deep based on your photo.
If your gonna be buried in it time to put an order in.

 

[alia176]

Thank you for all the terrific questions and responses.
The engine is in the truck, my goal is to get this truck running and keep it running for the next 350K miles (thats what's on the chassis, but the engine has about 200K or so on it. I'll probably be buried in the truck, but right now, it has not run for two years and I need to get it put together and get it going. FWIW, the oil was changed due to HG failure right after I decided to park it so that the water did not remain in the engine.

I will clean with karosene and a maroon pad and see how it looks. Figured I could not hone with pistons in.

I'll clean and post better pics. I took these without my glasses on so I could not see a darn thing...

if the engine hasn't rotated for two years, that explains the gunk on the cyl walls in each cyl. I bet they'll clean up nicely.

 

[Flank]

Update, I looks like superficial varnish on the cylinder wall, no pitting or rust. Reassembling and going to run it.

 

[bj70bc]

I would...
take compressed air and blow out the rings (gently)
dump some oil and diesel or atf into the pistons/rings and rotate all that by hand after its cleaned up ( mind the timing and whatnot, not familiar with the fz)
change oil after of course

 

[smorkington]

Send it

 

[Flank]

Update, I looks like superficial varnish on the cylinder wall, no pitting or rust. Reassembling and going to run it.

Terrific advice. I'll do that before I put the head on this weekend.