1FZ Crankshaft bolt help!

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The bottom side of the frame rail.

The only problem with this, re the blower pulley, is that the tool (at least the factory one) will not work with the blower pulley stacked on top of the stocker.
 
Well, if I ever decide to put a supercharger on my truck (or remove that bolt for whatever reason) I'll be calling Tools-R-Us and thanking him again for selling me an Ingersoll-Rand 1" impact driver. 1500 foot/pounds plus of torque, oh baby!

-Spike (Now if I can just get a compressor to drive it, and an adapter for 3/4" drive sockets, I'll be golden!)

If I ever decide to put a supercharger on my truck (or remove that bolt for whatever reason) I know who to call :)

Here is another version of home made SST.
 
Boyd,


Q2) So what's the plate hit on to hold the pulley while tightening the bolt?

Thanks,
Rookie2

The goal was to hit the bottom of the frame, but my plate was a bit too large to fit between the steering stabilizer and the frame. I ended up wedging it against the stabilizer mount. It also required longer locating bolts to span the distance between the plate and the TRD pulley.

With all the hoopla, I thought the crank bolt would be the hardest part of the install. Reality is that getting the stupid 90 between the plenum and the intake runner was the hardes for me. That and I had to lengthen the harness 8" for the TPS and IAC; I had nowhere near enough length.

Boyd
 
The bottom side of the frame rail.

Dan,

Were you responding to question 1 or 2? I'm understanding it that for the fabbed plate removal setup, the plates hits on the top of the rail like his picture seems to indicate, as opposed to the bump method where the breaker hits or straps to the bottom of the rail.

Just trying to get it straight in my head and something weird is going on like a reverse thread bolt or something.

Thanks,
Rookie2
 
The "tool" would butt up against the top of the frame rail for loosening the bolt and would butt up against the bottom of the frame rail for tightening the bolt.
 
Make sure the new bolt is properly torques with some blue loctite. Mine worked itself loose resulting in first a loss of Power steering capability and then lower oil pressure.
 
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