1998 JDM Land Cruiser Build

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Joined
Nov 22, 2010
Threads
7
Messages
67
Location
Colorado Springs, Colorado
I've had my RHD 100 in the US for almost a year now and I thought I'd share some of my experiences:

Having a right hand drive isn't bad, but I wouldn't really recommend it unless you get something "worth it", like something clean and low mileage or a diesel. I installed a GPS speedo as I don't like doing math while I drive. Drive-thrus aren't a big deal, I just lean over. Almost all the mechanical parts are interchangeable on my 2UZ-FE cruiser, so that is nice. I get most of my parts from Olathe Toyota or Cruiser Patch. Amayama is also a good resource if part is not too big and you have the time to wait for shipping.

For everyone - always check both Amayama and domestic sources for part prices, they can vary wildly; I've seen OEM parts much cheaper from Japan but also a lot more than in the US.

About my truck:

I got my LC about 2 years ago while living in West Tokyo. I purchased it at auction through Paul at JDM Concierge for about $12K with fees (no oversees shipping, just domestic delivery fee). My LC was fairly clean but reeked of smoke, it took a ton of steaming and carpet cleaning but the smell is gone except on the hottest days. The best part about is truck is virtually no overall rust, zero frame rust and it had about 100,000 km on it so only about 6X,000 miles.

Maintenace before leaving Japan:
-OEM Timing belt, water pump, front main and cam seals, tensioner, pulleys, fan bracket, serpentine belt, new coolant
-OEM Radiator and hoses
-OEM Steering Rack and tie rod ends
-OEM brake booster assembly
-Diffs and Transfer Case fluids
-OEM Sway bar bushings and ends
-Refreshed some fasteners on the tire carrier that had surface rust
-Heater Ts and new hoses

Since getting to the US:
-OEM Valve cover gaskets

Mods:
-Dobinson's IMS shocks, spring and torsion bars
-33 inch Falken Wildpeaks
-I removed the interior to add sound insulation and a nice stereo with Infinity door speakers on a 4 channel amp and a low profile 12 inch sub the trunk
-Just installed a @TRAIL TAILOR hidden winch with a Warn VR Evo 12-S winch (write up below)

I'm working on trying to get a North American ECU working so I can have no limit on the cruise control (can't engage above 70 per Japan regulations) and run a Scan Gauge. I'll post if I can get anything to work, it been a challenge so far as my LC didn't come with an immobilizer from the factory and wiring harness appears to be quite different.

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Hidden Winch

I went with the @TRAIL TAILOR hidden winch and a Warn VR Evo 12s. I also got the tow points and bolts from Trail Taylor. I wanted to keep this stock looking and I'm happy with the result.

I'm happy with quality of the hidden winch, good reenforcements and clean welds.
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The tow hooks are 13mm thick vs the 7mm stock hardware.
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I kept as much of the factory sub frame as possible to mount some Diode Dynamics light pods. I mounted the winch controller on a piece of aluminum bar to an existing tread in front of the radiator, the remote can be plugged in between the grill and radiator.

Hope this helps anyone else considering this hidden winch with a Warn VR Evo 12-s winch.

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Final result. I'll upload some daytime shots later on.
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I like it.
What did you use for the sound deadening? I'm about to strip mine down to a "shell" to have it painted and seats repaired and I think I'll add some before putting it back together. Thanks
 
I like it.
What did you use for the sound deadening? I'm about to strip mine down to a "shell" to have it painted and seats repaired and I think I'll add some before putting it back together. Thanks
Thanks Goose. I used 80 mil butyl sound deadening from Amazon on the doors and the interior. I then added 157 mil closed cell foam over it as I read it's good to do both for best results. I cleaned the surfaces with alcohol and left cut outs to access any bolts or access points on the body. I got a set of leather hole punches on amazon to help with small holes, those are nice to have but not required.

On the inside of the door panels I did another 50 mil butyl layer. I did not do the roof as I was afraid of damaging the headliner, but I'm sure that would be ideal if you can. Lastly I got some generic panel clips as you'll likely break or lose some when you disassemble the interior plastic panels.
 
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Appreciate the info.
Any issues getting the carpet to fit properly after adding that extra bulk? That would be my biggest concern. I was looking at Dynamat Superlite because it's thin.
 
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Nice.. Whats the size of the tire? I am ready to replace all 4. Is there a lift or all standard suspension. thanks!
 
It has a mild lift: Dobinsons IMS shocks in each corner, Dobinsons TB-59 torsion bars and C59-223V Rear Coil Springs. Factory control arms and it aligned with no problem. Front CV shafts are pretty much parallel to the ground, and the truck rides great!

Tires are 285/75-16 (32.8 inches) on stock wheels. Stock tire in 98 was 275/70/16 (31.1 inches).
 
I did some clean-up of the power cables connected to the battery recently. I made a little tray out of aluminum and mounted a fuse block. The 8 gauge wires were probably overkill. Currently my Diode Dynamics light cubes and another fuse block in the cabin are connected. I got the "Recoil BTO Solid Brass Positive Negative Battery Terminals" from amazon and connected it to the battery. On the negative I have my winch and light cubes connected. On the positive I have my winch, fuse block and amp power cable (powers two amps). I ran a negative wire on the fuse block but I don't currently have anything connected. I attached the aluminum bar to the charcoal filter mounting points, seems solid enough considering there is little weight mounted on it.

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Love it.
I got mine from Japan a few months ago and it’s the best. Slowly upgrading. Did the wheels, new media system, Japanese seat covers, upgraded cup holders. Next week I’m going to change out all suspension bushings.

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I love this thread. I also have a JDM 100 series (also 1998) and have been working through the emissions issues. (Finally sorted after replacing virtually everything involved.) It's inspiring to see what @Sean81 and @JonnyHI are working on.

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I love this thread. I also have a JDM 100 series (also 1998) and have been working through the emissions issues. (Finally sorted after replacing virtually everything involved.) It's inspiring to see what @Sean81 and @JonnyHI are working on.

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Do you have a Cygnus? I can tell you have a different trim level with the side mirror indicators. If you ever want to wrench on your truck, let me know, I'm in Monument. I have all the tools for the time belt job. Check out my key write-up if you need additional keys or just want some decent range on the remote.
 
Are those methods? What size? Your paint looks amazing, wish mine was that good!
18” Method 316’s. @cryptyk was able to make me some 3D printed center cap extensions to fit over the dust caps.
I lucked out with the condition.
Have you considered an egr delete? I’m thinking about doing it.
 
18” Method 316’s. @cryptyk was able to make me some 3D printed center cap extensions to fit over the dust caps.
I lucked out with the condition.
Have you considered an egr delete? I’m thinking about doing it.

I haven't seen too much on the EGR delete for 2UZs when I searched for it a while back, only the 1UZ. What have you found?
 
Curious about those roof cross bars and their mounts. Mine US spec truck wasn't ordered with any roof racking at all so i've been passively looking for an alternate option.
 
It has a mild lift: Dobinsons IMS shocks in each corner, Dobinsons TB-59 torsion bars and C59-223V Rear Coil Springs. Factory control arms and it aligned with no problem. Front CV shafts are pretty much parallel to the ground, and the truck rides great!

Tires are 285/75-16 (32.8 inches) on stock wheels. Stock tire in 98 was 275/70/16 (31.1 inches).
How do you like the rear springs? Thinking of the same for my setup, any feedback would be very much appreciated!
 
How do you like the rear springs? Thinking of the same for my setup, any feedback would be very much appreciated!
Happy with the ride, I have maybe 100 lbs of stuff in the back of the truck normally, but it doesn’t sag too much if I put my dirt bike on the trailer hitch carrier. It rides much better than the OME and toytec lifts I had in old 4Runners. I think they’re good springs for a daily driver, just a little bit of lift withour sacrificing comfort.
 

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