1997 Land Cruiser Dealer Installed Securikey+ Alarm Guide (1 Viewer)

May 22, 2018
Hello All,

I'm putting this together because I had to dig through many many threads to figure out what was going on with my alarm and there was a TON of misinformation. According to Securikey+ ELVAT6B 0014-S0274 0014-S0273 History, Information and Programming Instructions these were installed by Gulf State Toyota dealerships. More than likely only 1997 Land Cruisers and LX450s sold by these dealerships got these alarms.

The best thread I found was this one, originally started by user LC80

Help - Securikey+ Stranded !!!

When I bought my land cruiser only the driver's side door lock worked. There was what looked like an alarm control module under the steering column, attached to another ECU. It was unplugged (Image from LC80's thread):

Now, when I tried to plug this module in the alarm went off! So, I knew it was probably still good, but i had no way of disarming it. The recommendations from other factory alarm threads did not work.

Also, there was a button next to the steering wheel that was just an LED; it was missing its cap. (Image from LC80's thread):

Now we were getting somewhere. If yours is like mine, the button cap is missing. We'll fix that later. For now, try pressing it with a Q tip or something small that fits in the hole. Be gentle, as you don't want to damage the LED. It is a latching switch, you should be able to feel it lock down/pop up when you press it a few times. Leave it in the UP position for now.


The procedure for this alarm is DIFFERENT from the factory alarm installed in other cruisers.

PROTIP: Pull your horn relay under the hood before doing this and you won't wake up your neighbors. Disconnect your battery, connect the alarm control module, and reconnect the battery. The alarm will probably start going off. Hop in the driver seat, turn the ignition to ON, and press the valet button. Alarm should stop. The official procedure for "Valet Mode" is below:

If that worked, pop your horn relay back in and have a beer. If you don't care about using the alarm you can stop here. All of your door locks now work and the alarm is in "Valet Mode", which means it should not go off for any reason unless you disconnect the battery or the battery dies. If that happens just run through the procedure again.


If you're like me and the button cap is missing, manipulating the button for programming later will be difficult. The button should pull right out of the dash. Mine was marked "HB-16C" I found a datasheet on Mouser, both the complete switch and the button cap are both still available! A quick google seach brings up the datasheet if you're interested.

Complete switch part number: NKK HB16CKW01-5C-CB

Button "Cap/Diffuser" part number: AT4167DB (Amber, what I ordered)
AT4167CB (Red)​

I ordered mine from Mouser, they were a dollar each. If I did it again I would order RED, but oh well. I ordered 3 to have spares.

I unhooked the battery so that I wouldn't set the alarm off. Make sure you line everything up correctly when installing the cap! Look into the hole where the LED is. There are 2 notches that the legs pop in to. Make sure you can push the button in and out without it hanging up. I had to pop it back out and sand the outside of the legs down a bit so that the button would work smoothly.


I found this website that has lots of great information on the Securikey+:
Securikey+ ELVAT6B 0014-S0274 0014-S0273 History, Information and Programming Instructions

You can download the entire manual there for the alarm system. However, since websites like that disappear all the time I copied the general info:
  • Key fob FCC Id:: ELVAT6B
  • Key fob Toyota part number: Part 00014-S0260
  • Transmit frequency: 433 MHz - 434 MHz
  • Main control module: Part 00014-S0273 (underneath dash, ~4x4x1" black plastic box).
  • Shock sensor: Part 0014-S0274 (mounted on firewall under dash, sensitivity adjustment dial on front)
  • Brand: Audiovox?
I didn't like the "Securikey" style key remote so instead went ahead and bought a cheapy used alarm remote, brand "DIYTX" with 4 buttons, FCC ID "ELVATDB". It worked fine and was only 6 dollars:

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Finally, here's the procedure for adding a new remote:

The manual also has a guide for clearing the memory of old remotes, however I wasn't able to get that to work for me.

Hopefully this post answers all of your questions if you ended up with one of these oddball alarm systems.

Last edited:
Feb 4, 2015
Very nice write up, clearly you spent a lot of time researching it, but i hate to say it, most Mud members just pull these 20 plus year old alarms out, and replace them with something newer.

The reason for that, a lot of these older alarms have a known BAD habit of failing, thereby preventing your truck from starting.

Not the kind of problem you want to have happen while your out in the desert, when it's 110 degrees in the shade, no cell service, and the nearest paved road is a 20 mile walk.
May 22, 2018
I understand! However, for these units simply unhooking the control module allows the truck to operate normally. Not as secure as other systems, but an easy work around. That's how my truck was when I got it.
May 20, 2009
Canby Oregon
I pull all of them out and toss them, the convenience, of a keyless means nothing to me just one other thing to fail, when I am out wheeling
Sep 24, 2017
@Skrugg on this Audiovox system, is the "beep" the system uses from the factory Toyota horn? or is there another buzzer? Thanks!

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