1997 fzj 80, no start after a a full rebuild!

Joined
Apr 10, 2020
Messages
3
Location
Australia
Hi Guys,

Another newbie i'm afraid! And down here in Australia so some bits n bobs might be different for your trucks? but essentially the same car.

I've been reading your threads for a while now as I always seem to get to the bottom of stuff with a few of your pointers. And it seems most of the problems I've come across have been had before and someones fixed it!

Well this isn't a new one either but there were a few things during tear down and putting it all back together that have probably contributed so I thought I might just be better asking a few questions.

Firstly, History. The truck was showing signs of a blown HG about 4 months after buying it. After pulling the head, sure enough! although the a****** had stuffed it full of radweld or something similar to sell it on. This had clogged all the cooling journals in the block so I decided to just get and do the full top and bottom rebuild as the truck had high KM's anyhow. Just a little over 300K in your money.

First issue was one of those tired and should have quit earlier mistakes! Had started removing the alternator but the plug on the back was being a real bitch so decided to come back to it. Only problem was it got late and captain smart arse decided to reconnect the battery to lock the truck up, caused a nice short on the side of the alternator and a bit of smoke and electrical burning. Needless to say I'd blown the fusable link on the battery positive. I found and replaced that thanks to your forum. And have spent time testing relay connections and switches. Somehow all relays and fuses seem to be all ok.

So where I'm at now! Immobiliser is all working. I've got CEL and can read fault codes (only showing engine temp sensor fault). I have power at the EFI connections and at the fuel pump connector. She turns over really strong but won't fire. I've swapped out the fuel pump and changed the connector as it was cooked. Also had all the injectors and fuel rail cleaned and tested professionally. I'm definitely getting fuel as it was weeping from the engine bay filter. A bit of a nip up and that has fixed it. I did a spark test and the spark looked weak so I've tested the coil resistance. Resistance was low on the +and - so I've gone and got another one. Also went with a new head as she's on LPG also, so shes got all new valves etc and cam shims are all well within spec.

So Q1, The coil I've received is about 10mm narrower than the original. All the resistance readings are in spec and i was listed as being for my truck, so in my eyes apart from needing to modify the bracket I should be good with it? Yes/ No? And yes I'll do another spark test tomorrow and check if the plugs are getting wet.

Q2, Could there be another fusable link that has blown somewhere even though it's turning over and the fuel pump is running from the key?

Q3, When the new timing chain arrived it only had one bright link on it. When I had fitted it I turned the crank over twice while it was still on the engine stand and all the marks seemed to line up fine. I'm guessing it's still worth rechecking along with the distributor alignment?

Q4, Due to lack of funds / work commitments etc the truck has sat for 9 months +. Is it possible this could be a dud fuel issue. Have thrown in a jerry can full of fresh premium (as advised by a couple of people I've spoken to) but am I better dropping whats in there and starting again?

Q5, Anything blindingly obvious that I'm missing/ overlooking or could do with checking?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Chris
 

ceylonfj40nut

Waiting for Barn Time
SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 11, 2015
Messages
2,785
Location
TX
 
Work through this.

 
Joined
Nov 9, 2012
Messages
9,172
Location
Olathe, KS, USA
 
Hi Guys,

Another newbie i'm afraid! And down here in Australia so some bits n bobs might be different for your trucks? but essentially the same car.

I've been reading your threads for a while now as I always seem to get to the bottom of stuff with a few of your pointers. And it seems most of the problems I've come across have been had before and someones fixed it!

Well this isn't a new one either but there were a few things during tear down and putting it all back together that have probably contributed so I thought I might just be better asking a few questions.

Firstly, History. The truck was showing signs of a blown HG about 4 months after buying it. After pulling the head, sure enough! although the a****** had stuffed it full of radweld or something similar to sell it on. This had clogged all the cooling journals in the block so I decided to just get and do the full top and bottom rebuild as the truck had high KM's anyhow. Just a little over 300K in your money.

First issue was one of those tired and should have quit earlier mistakes! Had started removing the alternator but the plug on the back was being a real bitch so decided to come back to it. Only problem was it got late and captain smart arse decided to reconnect the battery to lock the truck up, caused a nice short on the side of the alternator and a bit of smoke and electrical burning. Needless to say I'd blown the fusable link on the battery positive. I found and replaced that thanks to your forum. And have spent time testing relay connections and switches. Somehow all relays and fuses seem to be all ok.

So where I'm at now! Immobiliser is all working. I've got CEL and can read fault codes (only showing engine temp sensor fault). I have power at the EFI connections and at the fuel pump connector. She turns over really strong but won't fire. I've swapped out the fuel pump and changed the connector as it was cooked. Also had all the injectors and fuel rail cleaned and tested professionally. I'm definitely getting fuel as it was weeping from the engine bay filter. A bit of a nip up and that has fixed it. I did a spark test and the spark looked weak so I've tested the coil resistance. Resistance was low on the +and - so I've gone and got another one. Also went with a new head as she's on LPG also, so shes got all new valves etc and cam shims are all well within spec.

So Q1, The coil I've received is about 10mm narrower than the original. All the resistance readings are in spec and i was listed as being for my truck, so in my eyes apart from needing to modify the bracket I should be good with it? Yes/ No? And yes I'll do another spark test tomorrow and check if the plugs are getting wet.

Q2, Could there be another fusable link that has blown somewhere even though it's turning over and the fuel pump is running from the key?

Q3, When the new timing chain arrived it only had one bright link on it. When I had fitted it I turned the crank over twice while it was still on the engine stand and all the marks seemed to line up fine. I'm guessing it's still worth rechecking along with the distributor alignment?

Q4, Due to lack of funds / work commitments etc the truck has sat for 9 months +. Is it possible this could be a dud fuel issue. Have thrown in a jerry can full of fresh premium (as advised by a couple of people I've spoken to) but am I better dropping whats in there and starting again?

Q5, Anything blindingly obvious that I'm missing/ overlooking or could do with checking?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Chris
From your description I would start over at timing. TDC, compression stroke, can timing, distributor on #1.
 
Joined
Apr 10, 2020
Messages
3
Location
Australia
Thanks Guys! And thanks for the link Celon! Saved and printed for the glovebox!!

Forgot to mention that the dash volt meter is only ready between 9 + 10 Volts and the battery light is on. Even though the main battery is new. So think I'll be checking links and earths a bit more before I start removing the valve cover etc.

Will get onto it tomorrow and let you know how I go!!

Thanks again guys.
 
Joined
Apr 10, 2020
Messages
3
Location
Australia
Hi Again guys,

Well It's been a while and still no joy. Have checked all the timing marks at TDC and all good. Rechecked all plug wires and connections to dizzy cap etc. Also all good. Been through the fuse boxes with the multi meter all the way from the battery to the cabin box and everything seems to check out. ??
1591013613362.png


Did find a couple of things. Wire off at the oil pressure sender. Easy fix and getting oil pressure at turn over, although she still just fires up and dies immediately. Was getting a strong fuel smell in the engine bay and spotted a few little weeps. Have nipped up the clamps and no more leaks but still the same symptoms. Kinda feeling this may well be a blocked fuel return line? so I'll drop the tank and get the lines of so I can blow them through at work. Worth doing anyhow .

I,m definitely feeling like I'm knocking a few issues off as I go, but It's still bugging me that the battery light is still showing up red and volts are still reading low with ignition on. Is this something I should be looking at further? I removed the plug from the back of the alternator and tried the key but did not try to start. The light rd light was now off was off. Is this normal? Or does this point to a bad Alternator? Have fitted a brand new 110 AMP ( as the bearings were going on the old one anyway and wasn't sure if I'd cooked it with the short ) that just fitted straight on with the exact same connector. Any chance the wires / pins might be a different order? If so is there any way of checking?

Have been trying to research how to bench test the old Alt. If that shows up good then I think my next move will be to swap that back on and see if that makes a difference.

Sorry to bug you again but really starting to do my noodle in now! Am I over thinking it all and chasing issues that aren't there? Will the volt meter sort itself out once the fuel problem is put right and the thing actually runs? Or is there something else I should be looking at?

Once again thanks in advance. Any help / pointers would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers

Chris

T Marks.png
 
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