1996 Land Cruiser won’t start

[danny93kor]

Hello my 1996 LC won’t start I have replaced the fusible link and charged the battery to 100%. I have tried starting it in neutral and check if the charcoal canister was clogged (was not).

Any idea on what to check next or should I have it towed to a mechanic?

 

[NeverFinis]

I mean, a mechanic might be your best route.

However, if you are willing to learn, get yourself a copy of the FSM from the resource section.

Then, start in the diagnostic section of the FSM, and work through the flow chart.

In my FSM for my LX450, it starts on page DI-8.

Here is how it starts out:

 

[BILT4ME]

Hello my 1996 LC won’t start I have replaced the fusible link and charged the battery to 100%. I have tried starting it in neutral and check if the charcoal canister was clogged (was not).

Any idea on what to check next or should I have it towed to a mechanic?

First thing to check is if the Check Engine Light (CEL) is on with the key in the RUN position, engine off.

If no CEL, it will not start because there is a parameter missing for the computer to allow it to start.

Check the fusible links and battery cables and ground cables first, including back of alternator.

Then go to the troubleshooting guides.

@jonheld will post his guide if needed.

 

[BILT4ME]

I see you posted in another thread with new information.

Please stay focused in one thread.

So it won't even crank?

Crank
Fire
Run

If no crank, it's different than if it won't fire and that's different than if it will fire but not run.

 

[Dragos80]

If you turn the key nothing happens?
How long do you keep the key turned on in the start position?

Try to keep it turned for several seconds.

 

[Dragos80]

Read this thread. There are some other links embedded in there too.

Fusible Link replaced, no CEL still difficult to start, delayed crank - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fusible-link-replaced-no-cel-still-difficult-to-start-delayed-crank.1372442/

 

[Rusty Marlin]

I just had this last weekend, Full charge (new battery), tight terminals, No CEL, no door lights, no key buzzer.
I had a bad body ground from the battery to the fender. Hope this helps.

 

[jonheld]

Hello my 1996 LC won’t start I have replaced the fusible link and charged the battery to 100%. I have tried starting it in neutral and check if the charcoal canister was clogged (was not).

Any idea on what to check next or should I have it towed to a mechanic?

Low hanging fruit:
1. Battery terminals tight
2. Main block ground secure
3. Constant +12 to the large lug on the starter
4. Getting voltage to the small terminal on the starter with the key in the START position.

If yes to all 4, then most likely the starter solenoid needs to be serviced, or you can replace the starter.

 

[Dragos80]

This morning my car did not start either. Not that there was a delayed start just no start al all. Key in the Start position for 10-15 seconds did not do the trick. Had to get a different cat to work since I had no time to mess with it.

After I got home from work I "hot wired" the starter to the battery with the key on and it started.
The stupid solenoid is either dead or on its way out. I thought because of the cold weather the battery voltage probably dropped a bit to the point where the solenoid did not have enough juice. Maybe. Maybe not.

But when I touch the positive terminal of the battery with the starter wire it fires up immediately without any shred of hesitation.
Inbound parts from China.

 

[jonheld]

This morning my car did not start either. Not that there was a delayed start just no start al all. Key in the Start position for 10-15 seconds did not do the trick. Had to get a different cat to work since I had no time to mess with it.

After I got home from work I "hot wired" the starter to the battery with the key on and it started.
The stupid solenoid is either dead or on its way out. I thought because of the cold weather the battery voltage probably dropped a bit to the point where the solenoid did not have enough juice. Maybe. Maybe not.

But when I touch the positive terminal of the battery with the starter wire it fires up immediately without any shred of hesitation.
Inbound parts from China.

Inspection and replacement of the starter solenoid and contacts is inexpensive and relatively easy. The solenoid bore can become dirty and the grease that Toyota used 30 years ago can get sticky, especially in the cold weather.
Clean the bore, use some lightweight grease, replace the contacts and plunger, and move on.
There are 100s of threads regarding this with part numbers and procedures.

 

[Dragos80]

Inspection and replacement of the starter solenoid and contacts is inexpensive and relatively easy. The solenoid bore can become dirty and the grease that Toyota used 30 years ago can get sticky, especially in the cold weather.
Clean the bore, use some lightweight grease, replace the contacts and plunger, and move on.
There are 100s of threads regarding this with part numbers and procedures.

You are absolutely right.
I searched it up and found a video on to replace the contacts and the reason why they need to be replaced.

The Ford solenoid addition is only a bandaid which will eventually fail too given enough time.
As those contacts will wear out it does not matter how much more amps you get from the battery to the starter, it will simply not work.

I believe he is a member here.

 

[jonheld]

You are absolutely right.
I searched it up and found a video on to replace the contacts and the reason why they need to be replaced.

The Ford solenoid addition is only a bandaid which will eventually fail too given enough time.
As those contacts will wear out it does not matter how much more amps you get from the battery to the starter, it will simply not work.

It depends what the actual problem is. The most common issue is is contacts and plunger. However, if power is not getting to the starter solenoid, the issue could be upstream.
Have a read through this post:

Post in thread 'Tricks to turning over when ignition spark is not reaching starter'

Aug 8, 2024

The majority of "no crank" issues are from faulty or worn starter contacts.
If you turn the ignition to START and you hear a "clunk" from the starter, it means that the solenoid is pulling in. This verifies all the logic from the battery to the starter and points to the contacts for the solenoid. OEM replacement parts are available and inexpensive.
There are many many threads regarding rebuilding starters.
28226-66060 starter terminal (battery side)
28226-72010 starter terminal (motor side)
28235-54380 solenoid plunger

If there is no clunk or no voltage reaching the starter logic terminal...

• jonheld

• 

 

[Dragos80]

It depends what the actual problem is. The most common issue is is contacts and plunger. However, if power is not getting to the starter solenoid, the issue could be upstream.
Have a read through this post:

Post in thread 'Tricks to turning over when ignition spark is not reaching starter'

Aug 8, 2024

The majority of "no crank" issues are from faulty or worn starter contacts.
If you turn the ignition to START and you hear a "clunk" from the starter, it means that the solenoid is pulling in. This verifies all the logic from the battery to the starter and points to the contacts for the solenoid. OEM replacement parts are available and inexpensive.
There are many many threads regarding rebuilding starters.
28226-66060 starter terminal (battery side)
28226-72010 starter terminal (motor side)
28235-54380 solenoid plunger

If there is no clunk or no voltage reaching the starter logic terminal...

• jonheld

• 

In my case there is no "clunk". Dead silence.