ive been having issues with the brakes for a while now. It feels soft and it does not stop the rig as it should (almost like it needs to be bled but not quite like that) I’ve already spent over $2k replacing everything I could think of but it’s still the same, I got new master cylinder, used abs module, new calipers, new rotors and brake pads, new brake lines and new brake valve in the rear. We’ve bled the brakes at last 5 times. I know the truck is heavy with all the extra goodies but I’m not sure if the brakes should feel that way. Anyone had a similar issue before? Is there an upgrade I can do (maybe a bigger master cylinder?) any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
1996 land cruiser brake issues (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Sakhr
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- Thread starter
- #3
New master cylinder and booster. We replaced both.
LSVP adjustment, sounds like your bias is more rear brake vs front. I had similar issues until I shimmed the valve 1/4 inch down from the body and adjusted the position of the adjuster on the axle.
I have a 4 inch lift, that's the reason for the shim.
I have a 4 inch lift, that's the reason for the shim.
- Thread starter
- #6
I think this is what’s happening. I have a 4 inch lift as well. I thought the adjustment should push the valve up since the truck already lifted. Do you have any pictures of how it should look like?
- Thread starter
- #7
Yes, aftermarket decent pads. it was recommended by the mechanic since he uses them on all his cars.
Checking the lspv adjustment and brake booster pushrod adjustment could yield positive results. I recently replaced everything (hoses, mc, calipers, rotors, pads, etc. etc.) and didn't start to get an acceptable feel until I fine tuned the booster pushrod and lspv. I'm thinking I need to get pressure gauges to really set the lspv but doing hard braking tests with and without abs between lspv adjustments allowed me to bring the rear brakes into play (they weren't involved much before).
Bleeding all of the lines at the ABS pump/modulator is another step that I took which may have helped. I did it after multiple flushes, that included abs modulation, and didn't notice much change but every little bit helps with these.
Finally, be sure that all of your wheel bearings are tight and that your brake pad slide pins are clean and that the pads can move freely. Either of these can lead to too much pedal travel or brake softness.
Good luck,
Bleeding all of the lines at the ABS pump/modulator is another step that I took which may have helped. I did it after multiple flushes, that included abs modulation, and didn't notice much change but every little bit helps with these.
Finally, be sure that all of your wheel bearings are tight and that your brake pad slide pins are clean and that the pads can move freely. Either of these can lead to too much pedal travel or brake softness.
Good luck,
4 inch lift means that, without any adjustment, the lspv system thinks the rear is unweighted and it's sending minimal brake power to the rear.
To handle that much of a lift you'll have to lower the lspv valve itself and possibly raise the lspv rod at the axle end as well as taking other steps to set it. With a changed spring rate etc. you may not be able to dial it in for loads/unweighted scenarios. Some replace stock lspv with a manual valve or set the lspv to full rear power all the time, etc. Read up on the forums to learn more.
To handle that much of a lift you'll have to lower the lspv valve itself and possibly raise the lspv rod at the axle end as well as taking other steps to set it. With a changed spring rate etc. you may not be able to dial it in for loads/unweighted scenarios. Some replace stock lspv with a manual valve or set the lspv to full rear power all the time, etc. Read up on the forums to learn more.
I've read that deleting the ABS helps a lot!
I dont have pics at the moment, I did a bunch of research and found that a 1/4 inch shim corrects for a 4 inch lift (it did on mine anyway)
Ii just took some 1/4 plate notched the ends for bolt clearance and loosened the LSPV from the body and slid it under it (IIRC I removed one of the bolts to get it in )
I do remember it was a PITA to get it in there as the fuel tank and frame crossmember are really close to the valve!
Good Luck!
Looking at the pic, I recall removing both bolts on the mounting plate the LSPV is mounted to, then levered the mounting plate away from the frame and slid the spacer in there.
I did not loosen or remove the bolts between the tank and frame
I did not loosen or remove the bolts between the tank and frame
A bookmark i had had stashed away. I need to address my brakes as well. Yet another LSPV/ABS delete how to...
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- #16
Thanks man. Will look into it and keep you updated.
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- #17
Thanks bud! appreciate the picture as well. Will keep you updated.
Not sure if you figured this out yet, but I had a similar issue. I adjusted my axle bracket for LSPV too high and lowered it a bit, bingo, my front brakes are now grabbing like they should. I can take a picture of what my bracket looks like. I have OME heavies but armor in back, drawers and full roof rack and RTT.
- Thread starter
- #19
Yes please, can you do that? I have a similar set up to yours but no rear bumper. I adjusted the rod all the way up and I even zip tied it to the control arm above it but it did not make any difference.
This is where i have the bracket. Not sure if its optimal but she stops pretty good.
