I have a 1994 FZJ80 with 130K miles. The truck slips out of reverse gear when it travels in excess of approx. 5 mph, then slips back into reverse gear when it drops back below this speed. Transmission indicator on dashboard does not light up for reverse. All forward gears work fine and dashboard indicator lights function properly for all positons other than reverse. Any thoughts?
1994 FZJ80 Transmission Problem
- Thread starter PoolesvilleCruiser
- Start date
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By slipping out of reverse; are you saying it feels like it goes into neutral with the engine reving and nothing happening?
Or, does it do a violent or harsh judder or shudder; bumpa bumpa bumpa kinda thing when you give it some pedal or if backing up an incline?
Not sure about the R light; other than the light is burned out; kinda rare
I would think however for the R light to burn out as it is not used much??
My first thought is that your ATF is either shot and/or the wrong type
and/or someone has added additives.
First thing I would do is completely change out your ATF by whatever method
you prefer; flush or drop the pan, clean the pan, etc; or just multiple drain
and fills. There was a long thread on this just a few days ago.
Everyone has their own preferences for fluids, techniques, etc.
Here is the link to a recent discussion, but there are many others;
do a search:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=185812
Main point is to get new fluid in there without any additives to see if it clears up your problem.
G
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When was the last time the fluids were changed? How often did you check the trans fluid before it started slipping? How long have you owned the vehicle? Does the transmission warning light operate when on "ACC"(just before turning on the car)? The "drive" light is usually burnt out on most trucks but it rarely burns out in "R". I don't think that the dashboard indicator light is directly related to the reverse gears failing to operate normally.
- Thread starter
- #5
Nothing harsh - truck will slip out of gear and feel as though it is in neutral, engine revs will increase, then speed of vehicle will decrease and will slip back into gear - no noises, bumps or thumps of any kind. I purchased the truck with 109K miles 2 years ago and had local Toyota dealership flush and change all fluids at that time including transmission fluid. All fluids in the vehicle are Toyota with no additives. Trasnmission fluid is at correct level (and has been since I have owned the vehicle) and looks brand new. Transmission started acting up within the last few hundred miles. No warning lights come on with regard to the transmission. As for the "R" light, it went out at the same time that I started experiencing this problem - could be coincidence but rather odd nonetheless. I am ready to bring it into the Toyota dealership for a diagnostic, however, without some idea of what the problem is, I am at their mercy if they tell me I need a new one. Any recommendations on a shop in the Mid-Atlantic that could assist with this other than the dealership?
Tried doing a little search myself. Might be related to a shift linkage, solenoid or Neutral safety switch (NSS). Maybe the shifter isn't informing the tranny correctly. That would explain the light NOT being illuminated in the "R" position. Start looking at the connectors/shifter area for something unsual. Disconnect the connectors and look for signs of corrosion. Might be an easy fix.
- Thread starter
- #8
your lips to God's ear - I will try it and let you know.
Sounds like gear selector linkage or maybe your gearbox or engine mounting rubber has gone so the tranny is moving more than it should above 5mph in R and affecting the selector position at the tranny end?
Any history of major damage or work on this vehicle? At that low miles and the R light being out (never ever heard of this despite dozens of D lights out) makes me wonder if someone's been in there. Perhaps they did not align the shifter correctly and it was on the edge of tolerance through your ownership until now a mount or other wear item has caused it to begin being out of the adjustment tolerance within which it will operate Reverse correctly.
DougM
DougM
From my experience, I would say the connection to the NSS. Espically if your PHH leaked before or if you are in an area where salt is used during the winter.
Here is what I went through except it was related to my 2nd gear indicator light, where it wouldn't stay in 2nd gear and would default to Drive:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=106789&highlight=indicator
The tranny seems to default to a safe gear (which would be neutral, since park or drive wouldn't be good in your case) when it doesn't receive a good signal.
I would check to see if your bulb is burnt out first (which I doubt) than going after the harness connector first.
try pulling a transmission code (not a CEL code)
i agree that it sounds like a wiring harness problem.
this is how you pull a transmission code
1. get a metal paperclip or jumper wires
2. switch the o/d button on
2. go to the DTC output box on the firewall of the engine (small black plastic box with a pop up lid which may be labelled "DLC1". lift the lid. You should see two small grids of 3x3 contacts and the inside of the lid should have a label code. identify the E1 and TT contacts.
3. turn ignition on
4. go back to the DLC box and insert one end of the paper clip in the E1 hole and one end in the TT hole. BE CAREFUL AND DO NOT GUESS ON THIS. If you don't have ther label code post up in the forum
5. go back inside and watch the o/d light flash pattern.
if it blinks continually in 2 second intervals you no longer have a problem so just pull the 10 amp dome fuse to clear the code
6. otherwise count the flashes to get a 2 digit code. the flash sequences are separated by a 1.5 second pause. If there are 2 codes there will be a 2.5 second pause between each fresh code.
7. remove the paper clip. turn truck off.
8. post your codes in the forum or look up in the FSM to decipher.
i agree that it sounds like a wiring harness problem.
this is how you pull a transmission code
1. get a metal paperclip or jumper wires
2. switch the o/d button on
2. go to the DTC output box on the firewall of the engine (small black plastic box with a pop up lid which may be labelled "DLC1". lift the lid. You should see two small grids of 3x3 contacts and the inside of the lid should have a label code. identify the E1 and TT contacts.
3. turn ignition on
4. go back to the DLC box and insert one end of the paper clip in the E1 hole and one end in the TT hole. BE CAREFUL AND DO NOT GUESS ON THIS. If you don't have ther label code post up in the forum
5. go back inside and watch the o/d light flash pattern.
if it blinks continually in 2 second intervals you no longer have a problem so just pull the 10 amp dome fuse to clear the code
6. otherwise count the flashes to get a 2 digit code. the flash sequences are separated by a 1.5 second pause. If there are 2 codes there will be a 2.5 second pause between each fresh code.
7. remove the paper clip. turn truck off.
8. post your codes in the forum or look up in the FSM to decipher.
Had a problem earlier this morning when putting the truck in drive, revved but truck barely moved... Also the "D" light wasn't on...
Cycled the shifter between Neutral back into drive, the light came one and I was back in business. So perhaps a little sloppiness could cause the same problem in your case?
Cycled the shifter between Neutral back into drive, the light came one and I was back in business. So perhaps a little sloppiness could cause the same problem in your case?
that one's almost certainly a solenoid. surfaces in cold weather.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?p=2460159#post2460159
Check this out, I had almost the same problem but it was from first to second. I hope this helps.
Check this out, I had almost the same problem but it was from first to second. I hope this helps.
- Thread starter
- #17
No major damage as far as I know. Carfax was clean when I bought it with 109K on the clock but you never know for sure. Main seal was replaced about 1,500 miles ago by Toyota dealership and, immediately after, shifter did not seem to operate as smoothly or as precisely. Gbell201's comment is right on point - PHH let go 10 miles down the beach at Assateague National Seashore (read article on replacing it as PM 2 weeks later - timing is everything in life). Truck has spent most of its off-road time on the beach at the Outer Banks and I am getting ready to take it there two weeks from now to go drum fishing so, at this point the plan is to take it back to same dealership next week and hope for good news. Valuable information picked up in this forum will definitely help making sure dealership stays honest.
"Main seal was replaced about 1,500 miles ago by Toyota dealership and, immediately after, shifter did not seem to operate as smoothly or as precisely"
That tells a lot; something didn't get put back together correctly, or was damaged during the previous work.
How long has it been since the main seal R&R? I would get it right back to them and would hold their feet to the fire. And I wouldn't give them any wiggle room; ie: tell them it started immediately as you drove away from the dealership, but you were just so busy, could not make it back until now, thought it would get better on it's own but it only got worse, etc, etc ---
What ever you tell them, do not tell them that you ever went off-road or even on your lawn with the vehicle. And be sure to wash any sand or mud off the vehicle before you take it in (remove the evidence!)
My 2 cents
Good luck
g
That tells a lot; something didn't get put back together correctly, or was damaged during the previous work.
How long has it been since the main seal R&R? I would get it right back to them and would hold their feet to the fire. And I wouldn't give them any wiggle room; ie: tell them it started immediately as you drove away from the dealership, but you were just so busy, could not make it back until now, thought it would get better on it's own but it only got worse, etc, etc ---
What ever you tell them, do not tell them that you ever went off-road or even on your lawn with the vehicle. And be sure to wash any sand or mud off the vehicle before you take it in (remove the evidence!)
My 2 cents
Good luck
g
i would diagnose and fix it myself. there may be a correlation but you will never prove it and you will waste a ton of energy fighting the dealer.