What did you use for the fuel tank pressure sensor?
Builds 1994 FZJ80 5.3l and 4L60e swap (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter rockrod
- Start date
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What did you use for the fuel tank pressure sensor?
Hey, just some further info about the temp/oil sensors, I did the same thing. Drilled and tapped 10mm for the oil press and used the autometer brass adapter then drilled it out and tapped it. I also ground down the part that is below the threads on the stock sensor so it would fit better and get a seal that didn't spray coolant all over the headers. Just ran the wire from there and spliced it directly into the IH1 harness. Seems to work just fine.
do you recall the output signal you used for the Dakota Digital? i had my tach working when i had the OEM computer in running my trans using a magnetic pickup on the flywheel. then i installed a standalone trans computer and got a dakota digital trying to use it as an AMP assuming the computer did something to the signal and can not get anything to output. it is reading the input signal and my trans controller picks it up just fine
Hello
I am new to this forum. I am in South Africa and am busy fitting a LM7 5.3L with a 4l60e into a 1992 80 series cruiser. It is too expensive to get the adaptor here from the US and Australia so am having one made. My question is how long must it be. From what I can see on the internet there are clearance issues between the engine and firewall and the driveshaft and the gearbox sump. So the engine must be moved forward. But by how much? What must the position of the front of the bell housing be relative to the original. Can anyone help?
I am new to this forum. I am in South Africa and am busy fitting a LM7 5.3L with a 4l60e into a 1992 80 series cruiser. It is too expensive to get the adaptor here from the US and Australia so am having one made. My question is how long must it be. From what I can see on the internet there are clearance issues between the engine and firewall and the driveshaft and the gearbox sump. So the engine must be moved forward. But by how much? What must the position of the front of the bell housing be relative to the original. Can anyone help?
oh man, that's really scientific. I just shoved it in there, made sure the motor wasn't touching anything then welded in the mounts. I could try to take measurements of where my engine mounts are specific to the frame or something?
How does one make an adapter ? The Marks adapter is a complicated piece of kit that mates the transmission and tease perfectly; not sure how someone duplicates that unless you have a Marks adapter as reference ? I guess you could 'backwards engineer' one but you'd still need the adapter to copy ?
BTW, what part of SA ?
I am having it done at an engineering works. You set up the transfer case behind the gearbox. Then basically make a tube with a flange both sides. One side with the transfer case bolting and one with the gearbox bolting. You then machine a shaft to fit the gearbox splines one side and the trasfercase the other side. But it is to get the length right so that you don't have to move the transfer case foward or back. Marks no doubt have got this right but don't give out this info.
I am in Johnnesburg
Well, you sound like you have a place that knows what they're doing. Just don't know how to get that length; you gotta try find someone in the middle of the same swap so they can measure for you.
BTW, Jo'burg, actually Kyalami, guy here.....
Str8Razor
SILVER Star
Just read this whole thread, nice swap, just aquired a lx450 and will start collecting parts to do a vortec swap, i am torn between manual and automatic transmission, i have a vortec swapped 60 so i'm leaning towards the auto for the lx450..... your attention to detail is superb, i like the supra fuel pump trick as well!!! keep it coming!!!
I know this is an old post...but GM A/c compressors are good components, Keeping the drive belt arrangement stock on the engine plus the GM compressor and other accessories (p/s and ALT) would be my preference. As would keeping the GM fan clutch and related radiator fan.
Hey Rockrod, currently in the middle of my own swap and I was wondering if you could send me your spreadsheets that you created? I'll direct message you my email address.
Thanks a bunch-
Thanks a bunch-
update:
Started doing two things. I pulled the fuel pump assembly in preparation for swapping the pump with a high pressure/volume unit to keep up with the motor:
new pump and install kit
Pulled assembly from tank after removing rear seats and carpet
pump assembly on the work bench. I also have to install a fuel tank pressure sensor for emissions
I also started working on stripping the 1FZ engine harness down. I spent the last few days translating the EWD over to a simple spread sheet with the connector diagram, wire colors, and circuit:
one of my spread sheets
Hey rock rod, I completed my v8 swap too on a '94 FZJ80. It has factory lockers, but I'm having difficulty on getting them to work correctly. Any advise? I've used this thread a lot to help complete my project. So THANK YOU for all your insight. I apologize if you covered this and I missed it.
regards,
Rod
regards,
Rod
My adapter was just delivered so I'm using your post as reference for the installation. However, the instructions show 2 differences from your post.So here is where an issue exists.
The holes don't line up for this plate. The plate is supposed to serve as a mounting surface for the t-case shifter. The source of the mis-alignment is the cast side of the tower. It's not square to the 4 bolt pattern. Some quick massaging with the soft wheel and problemo solved.
1) They show a 170mm cut distance from the housing and you went 151mm. I saw someone else post an "updated" instruction sheet from Mark's that shows 151mm. Just double checking to make sure it's 151mm.
2) They show the bracket for the t-case shifter mounted so that the L-flange is on the other side and pointing up (flipped 180 deg along the length of the adapter), so does it make s difference? Is that possibly why the holes didn't line up at first?
Thanks for your help!
update:
Started doing two things. I pulled the fuel pump assembly in preparation for swapping the pump with a high pressure/volume unit to keep up with the motor:
new pump and install kit
Pulled assembly from tank after removing rear seats and carpet
pump assembly on the work bench. I also have to install a fuel tank pressure sensor for emissions
I also started working on stripping the 1FZ engine harness down. I spent the last few days translating the EWD over to a simple spread sheet with the connector diagram, wire colors, and circuit:
one of my spread
What oil pan kit did you use?
- Thread starter
- #297
No issues with steering or clearance? You Didn’t have to rework the pan a bit?
- Thread starter
- #299
Nope no issues with anything. It's an easy swap on the motor (easier if said motor is on a stand). the kit includes everything you need to replace the truck pan with an f-body pan.
