You're probably not doing anything wrong, but your wire is doing you wrong. You should have consistent resistance across the entier shift solenoid circuit. Where are the endpoints you're measuring from/to? Try at the TCU also. You should the same-ish there.
I think that pigtail is still available. If not, you'll have to make one.
You're probably not doing anything wrong, but your wire is doing you wrong. You should have consistent resistance across the entier shift solenoid circuit. Where are the endpoints you're measuring from/to? Try at the TCU also. You should the same-ish there.
I think that pigtail is still available. If not, you'll have to make one.
You're probably not doing anything wrong, but your wire is doing you wrong. You should have consistent resistance across the entier shift solenoid circuit. Where are the endpoints you're measuring from/to? Try at the TCU also. You should the same-ish there.
I think that pigtail is still available. If not, you'll have to make one.
not sure why my browser doesn't display my reply sometimes but i'm going off of the TCU connector diagram on the manual checking S1 and ground and S2 and ground
Just for laughs, I'd check the circuit at the TCM, since you're there. But I think you found the problem.
Have you tried battery voltage at the harness connector terminals, as suggested in the manual? You'll need a helper so that one of you can apply voltage and the other can listen for the solenoid. I'll bet you'll find that S2 works fine and S1 is flaky.
Just for laughs, I'd check the circuit at the TCM, since you're there. But I think you found the problem.
Have you tried battery voltage at the harness connector terminals, as suggested in the manual? You'll need a helper so that one of you can apply voltage and the other can listen for the solenoid. I'll bet you'll find that S2 works fine and S1 is flaky.
Yes, that's what the TCM does. You're just bypassing the controller and activating the solenoid yourself. I'm not sure you need a full 12VDC to move the solenoid; a (new) 9V battery might do it. Easier than lugging a group 27 battery around, unless you have a power supply handy.
Looks like I found the dang wire. See the pictures, I can reach the end on the transmission side, the casing has crumbled away already. The end by the starter is hard to reach. I'm thinking two ways: one is try to unplug both connectors by the starter, then pull the harness towards the tranny and work from there, or (two) use one of those clip-on connectors on the started side wire instead of pulling the harness out. I haven't been able to unplug them yet, you know how tight it is plus years of use and oils and stuff.
I am getting somewhere!
Spray the connector housings with CRC Plastic Safe Contact Cleaner until the outside is clean (a toothbrush helps). By then, the dirt between the two housings will be loose and you'll be able to disconnect it.
HAPPY UPDATE! She is back in business. The wire loom fought me but finally gave in. I removed the damaged section of about 2 inches, there was another kink further up the wire, soldered a new piece of wire and put a wire casing over the whole thing (didn't take pictures of that).
She purrs and starts in first and shifts smooth.
Thank you all for your help!