Builds 1992 LJ78 build... yes another one (1 Viewer)

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Over a month later I'm still getting work done on the LJ

Finally got my radiator from Cruiserparts! I had to do some drilling for two mounts on the right side. It wasn't too bad seeing as I just needed a couple mm's of room after that I got some hardware from Napa! Now if you're going to order from Cruiserparts... giving them a call emailing them isn't the best option if you want a reply in this century lol. I had them add an AT trans cooler which was $100 seeing as I didn't want to run an external unit right now. total for the radiator was $300 and about a week to make. so far as good

Nothing like OEM parts!

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Went ahead and replaced the old rusty hoses, front panhard bushings, V belt, and front tie rod relay ends. I have a couple of other things I want to replace as well but in time.

now I had to order some of the parts from overseas through PartSouq.com simply because I couldn't find them locally

Came across Siberian Bushing on eBay and ill be buying more from them! they have tons of bushings for the LJ and pricing isn't bad at all. just make sure you message them and let them know you're buying more than one bushing to get some savings on shipping shipped from Russia to USA in 3 days

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Current photo of the truck with the 2in lift from Ironman4x4

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ohheyitsnino said:
Over a month later I'm still getting work done on the LJ

Finally got my radiator from Cruiserparts! I had to do some drilling for two mounts on the right side. It wasn't too bad seeing as I just needed a couple mm's of room after that I got some hardware from Napa! Now if you're going to order from Cruiserparts... giving them a call emailing them isn't the best option if you want a reply in this century lol. I had them add an AT trans cooler which was $100 seeing as I didn't want to run an external unit right now. total for the radiator was $300 and about a week to make. so far as good

Nothing like OEM parts!

View attachment 2835910View attachment 2835912

Went ahead and replaced the old rusty hoses, front panhard bushings, V belt, and front tie rod relay ends. I have a couple of other things I want to replace as well but in time.

now I had to order some of the parts from overseas through PartSouq.com simply because I couldn't find them locally

Came across Siberian Bushing on eBay and ill be buying more from them! they have tons of bushings for the LJ and pricing isn't bad at all. just make sure you message them and let them know you're buying more than one bushing to get some savings on shipping shipped from Russia to USA in 3 days

View attachment 2835916

Current photo of the truck with the 2in lift from Ironman4x4

View attachment 2835931View attachment 2835932
Click to expand...

Great work! Thanks for the update.

Just be aware that those poly bushings make for a harsher ride and less flexibility in the suspension. That said, they are tough and will last longer than softer rubber ones. If you intend to keep your vehicle as basically an on road vehicle, then the poly ones are fine. If you go off road, you'll find the lack of articulation quite limiting. (in particular, it's the radius arm bushings that you'd want to be on the more flexible/soft side for off road).
 
Also, I'm glad to hear you pushed for an in-radiator trans cooler. Most who go to an external one only end up burning up their transmission. The in-rad one is very efficient, and also helps to warm up the trans fluid when the weather is cold. This is needed for proper transmission function.

An external one is fine; as long as it is put in series before the radiator one. The idea there would be to dump heat before the ATF enters the radiator; thus reducing the load on the radiator.
 
Has anyone tried the washer mod to correct caster after a lift ? I'm thinking of going that route when I install my lift ? I'm familiar with it for the 80 but havent seen much discussion on it for the LJ78
 
Blue1 said:
Has anyone tried the washer mod to correct caster after a lift ? I'm thinking of going that route when I install my lift ? I'm familiar with it for the 80 but havent seen much discussion on it for the LJ78
Click to expand...

At one point I looked at trying caster correction plates which I think is the same idea? But compared to the 80 series, I found stuff to be a lot tighter on the LJ78 front axle, with not as much room to work with this sort of solution.
 
Ok, well I won't hi-jack this thread anymore but I will report back when start on mine. Just collecting parts and will start a build thread at that point.
 
Last edited:
well wuick update... LJ seems to be overheating again.

new rad, hose, fan service, thermostat, rad cap, and multiple flushes didn't help whatsoever

I was able to drive the truck for a week doing about 500miles without any problems. But while parking at work I sat in my truck for 5mins and saw the gauge go up and shut the truck off. went ahead and drained my coolant once again it was pink and milky brown. sort of lost at what to do next really. i did notice popping and bubbling coming from the coolant tank
 
ohheyitsnino said:
well wuick update... LJ seems to be overheating again.

new rad, hose, fan service, thermostat, rad cap, and multiple flushes didn't help whatsoever

I was able to drive the truck for a week doing about 500miles without any problems. But while parking at work I sat in my truck for 5mins and saw the gauge go up and shut the truck off. went ahead and drained my coolant once again it was pink and milky brown. sort of lost at what to do next really. i did notice popping and bubbling coming from the coolant tank
Click to expand...

If the head's never been done, almost guaranteed that is what your problem is.
 
Would anyone have a guide to removing the engine? Trying to figure out the best way either engine pulled or engined plus tranny at the same time. Decided to pull the engine, clean it and do a engine rebuild plus some improvements (egr delete, new turbo and improved cooling)
 
I would suggest you get a 1Kzt and throw that in. The amount of money you are going to put into rebuilding the 2lt you can get a decent 1Kzt. The 1Kzt is not that much better than the 2lt but it will definetly add value to the truck, for when you decide to sell it and it will sell quicker. Even if you rebuild the 2lt it will not bring the kind of money a 1Kzt donor would. I know how you are feeling right now " oh i love this truck i am never gonna get rid of it" that can change very quickly.
 
@ohheyitsnino Before you start ripping your truck apart or dropping tons of $$ on parts/rebuild, can you confirm exactly which thermostat you're using?

At the beginning you mention running something from an 80's 4runner? I'm not aware of anything of that vintage that will work properly. The geometry of the t-stat is really important, as not only does it allow coolant into your rad when it opens, but it also blocks off the bypass in your cylinder head. If that bypass hole is not blocked off, then you'll have overheating issues for sure.

I highly recommend you use the OEM toyota 82C one. Maybe give that a try before committing to other major work. Toyota part number is: 16340-54040. It can be ordered from quite a few places.
 
GTSSportCoupe said:
@ohheyitsnino Before you start ripping your truck apart or dropping tons of $$ on parts/rebuild, can you confirm exactly which thermostat you're using?

At the beginning you mention running something from an 80's 4runner? I'm not aware of anything of that vintage that will work properly. The geometry of the t-stat is really important, as not only does it allow coolant into your rad when it opens, but it also blocks off the bypass in your cylinder head. If that bypass hole is not blocked off, then you'll have overheating issues for sure.

I highly recommend you use the OEM toyota 82C one. Maybe give that a try before committing to other major work. Toyota part number is: 16340-54040. It can be ordered from quite a few places.
Click to expand...
I came across the part number and when I referenced against US Toyota parts it was match. Maybe I was confused with the numbers but I'll go ahead and check that part number you supplied to me.

I've already removed the EGR parts and awaiting the block off kit that came across from this company here in the states. I've pulled the turbo so I can clean and port some parts as well as. Once I pulled my turbo I saw some mud like deposits in one of the lines. Checks some rubber lines near the turbo and they were also filled with corrosion. So I'll be replacing all of those lines.

Lastly I'm planning to do an intercooler like it's been recommended in your posting and others. So I decided to pull the engine to work on all of this without reaching deep into the engine bay. Two top bolts that of the transmission bell that are difficult as hell to get. While I'm there I'll be cleaning and tiddy up
 
Sounds good! Definitely double check that t-stat part number. Some of the older ones will fit, but doesn't mean they work right.

Be super super super careful with that brittle old wiring harness. That is the biggest risk with removing the whole motor, is you're highly likely to damage the wiring harness. The wires break really easy at the connectors. Make sure to repair anything that this happens to. IMHO, leave well enough alone. It's a tight engine bay, but not worth removing the whole motor to do the things you want to do.... Just my two cents. (been there done that sorta thing...)
 
Wow its been awhile since posting! work and home life got in the way.

I was able to pull the engine about a month ago and have been tearing things off. cleaning and inspecting as i go along.

Now ive been cleaning and inspecting and looked at the under side of the cylinder head bock and noticed tiny cracks.... thoughts on it?

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