So I was lucky enough to be given a 1991 landcruiser from a friend. The bad news is that it has a head gasket issue and has been sitting for 2 years. I was able to wrench on it and get it fired up and the motor runs like a champ. The down side is the large amount of sweet smelling white smoke out of the tailpipe. Head gasket....... Same thing happened with my 72 landcruiser. I started tearing into the motor but was unable to remove the air intake to pull the head. I removed all the hoses and cables to the intake then unbolted the 9 bolts (3 per intake runner) as well as the the braces that attach to the EFI intake at the front and back of the motor. Could not even make the intake separate at all even slightly. I have to be missing a bolt somewhere but cannot for the life of me find it. I hope that someone here can help me locate the bolts i am missing so i can pull the intake and subsequently the head for assessment.
1991 Landcruiser 3fe head gasket/air intake removal
- Thread starter cruiser812
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So the motor runs like a champ with a blown head gasket?
Head gasket issues are very rare on a 3FE. I would do a compression/leakdown test and get some real quantitative numbers and have the motor oil and coolant tested before pulling the head.
If the tests show cross contamination I would look at the oil cooler on the side of the block before the headgasket.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
There's your answer.
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- #4
Did a compression test and confirmed head gasket. 120-125 on all cylinders roughly except 1 at 135 psi (Cold). Had coolant shooting out of cylinder 5 and could hear air coming out of the coolant reservoir.
Which leads to the question are there any tricks to getting the air intake of after removing the 9 intake bolts and air intake stays?
Which leads to the question are there any tricks to getting the air intake of after removing the 9 intake bolts and air intake stays?
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- #5
Can anyone help me out with the tricks to remove the air intake chamber. I have tried looking at the 3fe repair manual and it is no help.
For Sale - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.
I have noticed that it seems to have been removed before as there is blue gasket material between the intake and intake manifold. Any help identifying where all the bolts/attachment points are would be a great help so I can pull the head.
Thanks
For Sale - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.
I have noticed that it seems to have been removed before as there is blue gasket material between the intake and intake manifold. Any help identifying where all the bolts/attachment points are would be a great help so I can pull the head.
Thanks
Dude I think you’re gonna have to smack it with a dead blow or something, mine came off no problem removing the two braces and the 3 x 3 bolts.
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- #7
I actually did try a dead blow to try and break it loose after removing the bolts. It didn't budge. I was worried about cracking the intake. Even tried pulling on the intake but the entire car was shaking as i was pulling which is what makes me think there was another bolt besides the ones to the stays and 9 bolts on the intake and manifold union.
Ill give it another go and see if i can break it loose. I really don't want to take it to a shop as it is hard to find a good reasonable mechanic here in Tallahassee especially with the few i have talked with just pushing a new motor.
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- #8
So after thinking about it more I am going to pull the motor and just replace with another 3fe. I was able to get it cheap at $900 which includes shipping from across the country. It only has 116k on the motor and came out of another 91 the was in an accident. Nice part it is complete in that everything from the fan to flex plate comes with it. Plus i was able to get them to give me both the front and rear drive shafts for spares in case tear them up off road. My question is what all does everyone recommend I do to the motor prior to dropping it in the 80. I will probably go ahead an tune it up but wasn't sure if there are any seals that i should go ahead and replace to prolong the motor?
can you take a picture and show me what you have pulled off your intake? I have had my intake off a few times for injectors and believe it or not for two head gasket failures. my first one was due to an overheat and the second one still has me scratching my head. but none the less I highly suggest if you haven't bought the other engine yet is too take the time and figure out why you cant get it off. there is something you are missing. are you trying to remove the lower and upper plenum at the same time or just the upper from the lower? there are a few different things holding that sweet ride on. and being aluminum and being held together with a paper gasket that upper plenum should separate relatively easy from the lower. after the upper is off after that its smooth sailing. the fsm says you have to pull the fuel rail from the injectors and then from the lower plenum but its not needed. although I highly suggest pulling the injectors and taking them to a shop to get cleaned and tested. if you have any questions let me know. I got the top end tear down and rebuild down to roughly 6 hours now. I'm unfortunately pretty good at it now hahaha
Oil pan gasket, side cover gasket, valve cover gasket and grommets. All OEM
All new hoses, thermostat, and belts. All OEM
New OEM green hub fan clutch.
Great time to replace the water pump and alternator with an OEM new one.
All new hoses, thermostat, and belts. All OEM
New OEM green hub fan clutch.
Great time to replace the water pump and alternator with an OEM new one.
Yes go oem otherwise you will regret it. Hence why I’m doing my stuff twice....
Front and back brace plus the cold start injector fuel line. Be sure to remove the intake hose (derrrr) too.
Since it is out, you should refresh the replacement engine before you install it. I would purchase a complete gasket and seal kit and new lower radiator hoses and replace them now along with new water pump and oil pump. I just finished doing this to my 92 after it blew a headgasket. All gaskets and seals replaced except for the rear main since i did not pull engine. I also replaced the engine and transmission mounts.
I wish you were closer. I wouldn't mind helping and would love to take your old engine off your hands for spare parts.
I wish you were closer. I wouldn't mind helping and would love to take your old engine off your hands for spare parts.
You ever get that mofo off of there???
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- #18
I was just trying to remove the upper on it own. I removed all 9 bolts that hold it to the intake manifold and the front and rear intake stays that attach to the air intake and it would not budge. I agree that i am either missing something or the previous owner decided to use marine grade sealant to bond the air intake to the manifold (wouldnt put it past him as he was a not a mechanic and have noticed alot of rigged things on the cruiser. Still cant beat free though. I have actually already purchased the motor and picked it up yesterday. $900 for a running complete drop in motor with all accessories plus the front and rear drive shafts(missing one and the other for a spare) with only 114K i feel is a pretty good deal. Started removing the front of the cruiser to pull the motor this past weekend. Didnt make it to far as the girlfriend wanted to spend some time together with the weather being nice.
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- #19
Help is always appreciated. This is the first time that i have pulled a motor from a newer cruiser. I have to say i miss my fj40 in that regard. I could have the entire clip off and radiator in like 1 hour. The 80 has alot more things going on like AC and trans cooler lines to deal with. I will be freshening up the motor as there appears to be a good bit of grease/oil on it for 114K. Then again it came from a 27 year old cruiser.
I will probably be keeping the motor that is in it as it only has 150K. I know it still runs just with a blown head gasket. Once i get the new motor install i will probably dig into it if i ever have spare time. Like you said, spare parts is always an option.
