1991 3FE cable parts sourcing help (1 Viewer)

[jostinakex]

Anyone know a good place to get these cables? The accelerator cable (???) that goes into the black box on the passenger side and the kickdown cable.
Mine are stretched to s*** causing wear on my transmission from hard shifts. I managed to pack a ciggie in there to let the cable have Less slack so it won’t shift like it’s wide open constantly but I need to get that part before I can start driving her again!

 

[reklund5]

Why not just adjust them with the jam nuts on the bracket there? Thats what they're for....

 

[jostinakex]

Why not just adjust them with the jam nuts on the bracket there? Thats what they're for....

Because it’s so stretched that the jam nut don’t do anything anymore… seriously Facebook has given me more answers than this forum on this for some reason the red on the photo shows the path the cable is taking instead of the path it should (yellow) because it’s stretched can’t get it not to do that without raising file to high hell because of the cables function

 

[jostinakex]

Seriously no one has any other advice on sourcing these?

 

[reklund5]

If the cable is not returning into the jacket, thats indicating something else isn't pulling on the other end of the cable, or its binding internally. Typically that isn't a symptom of a stretched cable. Have you detached the cable from the throttle linkage and confirmed it moves freely? Is the cruise control actuator binding up? I'd disconnect the cables from both ends and check their movement, and use a cable lube tool to inject some lube in the jacket. Checking the usual online sources, many of the 3FE cables are NLA, so your best bet may be some good used ones. I'd call Georg at Valley Hybrids and see what he's got.

 

[mtnbiker4evr13]

I just had to replace the kickdown cable on my 91' and ran into the same NLA issue. I suspect the FJ62 cable which is available from Cityracer would work as I had one measured but gave a rockauto one a shot (Pioneer CA2015). Its at the extreme end of adjustment on the threads to be loose enough but works.. shifts are still on the sporty side.

Next time around I'll try the oem FJ62 cable.

 

[jostinakex]

I just had to replace the kickdown cable on my 91' and ran into the same NLA issue. I suspect the FJ62 cable which is available from Cityracer would work as I had one measured but gave a rockauto one a shot (Pioneer CA2015). Its at the extreme end of adjustment on the threads to be loose enough but works.. shifts are still on the sporty side.

Next time around I'll try the oem FJ62 cable.

have you heard of anyone having luck with the fj62 cable? definitely thinking of going the city racer route if it will work i will buy part and install and see how it goes

 

[Rifleman]

Another option to source a cable since the factory cables are now NLA, Take the factory cable off, and take it to a boat shop, They can make custom length throttle cables for boats, So they might be able to fab a replacement throttle/kick down cable for you,

 

[jostinakex]

I just had to replace the kickdown cable on my 91' and ran into the same NLA issue. I suspect the FJ62 cable which is available from Cityracer would work as I had one measured but gave a rockauto one a shot (Pioneer CA2015). Its at the extreme end of adjustment on the threads to be loose enough but works.. shifts are still on the sporty side.

Next time around I'll try the oem FJ62 cable.

went with the pioneer cable, any tips on getting it in? what is involved in job?

 

[mtnbiker4evr13]

went with the pioneer cable, any tips on getting it in? what is involved in job?

Have to drop transmission pan, one side attaches to the servo arm inside. Its a bear to get in there, also have an viton oring set for the dipstick tube junction and your preferred pan gasket.

 

[jonheld]

Couple of thoughts.
The throttle cable (black stopper) runs to the cruise control actuator on the right fender. If that's the one that is not returning to the correct position, then your throttle would stay open or the throttle pedal would not return properly.
The transmission kickdown cable (orange stopper) requires very fine adjustment. From the pictures you posted, I can see that it is WAY out of proper adjustment.
I would suggest following the adjustment procedure in the Toyota FSM and go from there before replacing parts.
Again, the kickdown adjustment should be made in VERY small increments as you're adjusting the overall system fluid pressure.
The FSM and EWD for your truck can be downloaded for free in the resources section.

On a side note, it is better to have firm shifts on an auto. Soft shifts create more wear on the internal spinning bits.
Also the A440F transmission is very sensitive to fluid level. It does not like to be over or under filled. Fluid should be bright candy red and be just at the top of the HOT mark on the dipstick at normal operating temperature with the engine running.

 

[jostinakex]

Couple of thoughts.
The throttle cable (black stopper) runs to the cruise control actuator on the right fender. If that's the one that is not returning to the correct position, then your throttle would stay open or the throttle pedal would not return properly.
The transmission kickdown cable (orange stopper) requires very fine adjustment. From the pictures you posted, I can see that it is WAY out of proper adjustment.
I would suggest following the adjustment procedure in the Toyota FSM and go from there before replacing parts.
Again, the kickdown adjustment should be made in VERY small increments as you're adjusting the overall system fluid pressure.
The FSM and EWD for your truck can be downloaded for free in the resources section.

On a side note, it is better to have firm shifts on an auto. Soft shifts create more wear on the internal spinning bits.
Also the A440F transmission is very sensitive to fluid level. It does not like to be over or under filled. Fluid should be bright candy red and be just at the top of the HOT mark on the dipstick at normal operating temperature with the engine running.

thank you! this is super informative i’ve fixed the cable that runs to the housing on the passenger side that pulls the throttle cable the smaller cable in the box. still firm clunky unstable shifts. in first and second it comes out of gear rpms go up than it catches again i hav to be on pedal hard for it not to do that. i am going to replace cable next week but i hope i’m not in for a trans rebuild. always clunks in 1-2-3 when i start it i get a smooth shift but after it moves around it clunks when i give it some gas while rolling. i’ve heard of the u joints being an issue? does that sound like something it could be? trans and transfer case seem to have a leak so i will be doing a full fluid flush when i get that cable in. seems like a lot of people have posted on here about the same clunk in the 91 but there aren’t too many answers on fixing it… i the rig for 3000 it was used to tow so i’m sure that heated up the trans a bit. old lady has been neglected hoping i can save her and figure this out

 

[jonheld]

thank you! this is super informative i’ve fixed the cable that runs to the housing on the passenger side that pulls the throttle cable the smaller cable in the box. still firm clunky unstable shifts. in first and second it comes out of gear rpms go up than it catches again i hav to be on pedal hard for it not to do that. i am going to replace cable next week but i hope i’m not in for a trans rebuild. always clunks in 1-2-3 when i start it i get a smooth shift but after it moves around it clunks when i give it some gas while rolling. i’ve heard of the u joints being an issue? does that sound like something it could be? trans and transfer case seem to have a leak so i will be doing a full fluid flush when i get that cable in. seems like a lot of people have posted on here about the same clunk in the 91 but there aren’t too many answers on fixing it… i the rig for 3000 it was used to tow so i’m sure that heated up the trans a bit. old lady has been neglected hoping i can save her and figure this out

So it sounds like you're not having "hard" shifts, but rather "flare" shifts with the engine RPMs increasing before it catches.
Again, I would refer to the adjustment procedure in the FSM before replacing parts. Keep in mind the FSM calls the kickdown cable the "throttle cable" in the AT section.
Once you're at the correct starting point according to the FSM, you'll be making VERY small adjustments. Like 1mm at a time at most.

If you replace the cable with a non-OEM part, you will have no length reference to start your adjustment.

 

[jostinakex]

Couple of thoughts.
The throttle cable (black stopper) runs to the cruise control actuator on the right fender. If that's the one that is not returning to the correct position, then your throttle would stay open or the throttle pedal would not return properly.
The transmission kickdown cable (orange stopper) requires very fine adjustment. From the pictures you posted, I can see that it is WAY out of proper adjustment.
I would suggest following the adjustment procedure in the Toyota FSM and go from there before replacing parts.
Again, the kickdown adjustment should be made in VERY small increments as you're adjusting the overall system fluid pressure.
The FSM and EWD for your truck can be downloaded for free in the resources section.

On a side note, it is better to have firm shifts on an auto. Soft shifts create more wear on the internal spinning bits.
Also the A440F transmission is very sensitive to fluid level. It does not like to be over or under filled. Fluid should be bright candy red and be just at the top of the HOT mark on the dipstick at normal operating temperature with the engine running.

been fiddling with that cable for a few days now, the truck violently kicking forward is gone, i had to take most of the slack out the cable it was super stretched, even with most the threads used it had slack. thinking i might replace the part with the none oem. would you have any suggestions or advice before i do so?

some more symptoms other than the trans flare from 1-2 (thank you for introducing me to that term made searching for more posts about this problem a lot easier) are that it does fine under a load like going up a hill it wont clunks a drives great
if i leave my foot barley on the pedal to coast around 5-10 miles an hour it will just surge the rpms and flare making me lose power
if i give it a lot more gas the shifts are fine and it only flares once, adjusting cable hasnt done anything yet i suspect its due to how stretched it is, she was used for towing by prev owner just small trailers with motorcylces but i imagine that stretched the cables more than it would a none hauling land cruiser

after making sure my throttle valve was at the correct position and putting that air boot back on coolant hose from radiator started collapsing on its self and idle now surges so gotta chase another gremlin

 

[jonheld]

been fiddling with that cable for a few days now, the truck violently kicking forward is gone, i had to take most of the slack out the cable it was super stretched, even with most the threads used it had slack. thinking i might replace the part with the none oem. would you have any suggestions or advice before i do so?

What are your measurements between the boot and the stopper with the throttle in the idle position and WOT? You seem to be concerned with "slack".
At the idle position there should be slack in both throttle cables. Did you start at the FSM specification? That should have been the very first step.

i imagine that stretched the cables more than it would a none hauling land cruiser

Towing load on the vehicle has nothing to do with cables.
I also find it rather unlikely that any throttle cable like that will stretch more than a few MM. It's not like it has any real load on it to begin with. It's just moving a spring loaded valve.

after making sure my throttle valve was at the correct position and putting that air boot back on coolant hose from radiator started collapsing on its self and idle now surges so gotta chase another gremlin

Have you downloaded the FSM? All diagnostics and maintenance flow charts are in there along with step by step procedures.

This is a tractor motor with 1986 technology and first generation fuel injection. All mechanical adjustments MUST be correct first. The ECU has very limited correction abilities. The FSM is your guide.