1989 BJ74 advice

[JaymanWRS]

Hey guys, I just got a 1989 Bj74 5spd with 170,000km. Everything runs great I’ve had no issues so far, but I want to start buying parts for stock so I can be prepared. What should I prioritize? I’m admittedly inexperienced but are there any parts specific for the 13bt or h55f I should start looking for? I know some parts are difficult to find but any help would be great.

thanks

 

[coldtaco]

This is probably obvious, start with oil/fuel filters. Then investigate what driveline parts, like brakes/bearings, are interchangable with other vehicles normal to the US/Canada and make a list for future use. Hint, most drive line parts are same with the 60 series, except the short axle shaft. Depending on how long you want to keep the rig, start watching the classifieds for engine specific parts, 24V relays and such. Find what you can get new still and buy those.

 

[Gun Runner 5]

While not necessarily requiring you to buy anything, make sure your cooling system (radiator, t-stat, hoses and water pump) are performing at their fullest capacity.

 

[Felde]

If ju just got the vehicle, hey welcome. What about some pics
I would recommend to start learning about your vehicle. When I got mine last May, I spent like hours over, in and under it to understand what all I was actually looking at and touching on. The first thing you need is maintenance manuals.
When looking closely and carefully you may spot some suspects to consider acting on. E.g some electric needed attention, my radiator hoses where brittle and my coolant cap was not airtight . Fuel hoses and fuel filler hose is on my list. Actually rust protection was my primary concern as mine really lacked this.

As others said, you should do a full service on all fluids, including filters, coolant, clutch- and breakfluid.
Do a grease service and inspect all those moving parts.
Check and clean your axel- and gearbox-breathers. This helps to prevent leaking seals.
Check your front knuckles: Greased but not leaking? If the balls are rusty or pity, or if the inner axle seals are toast, they might start leaking at some point.
You should check on brakes, too: Take off wheels and drums and check cylinders for leakage, pads and linings
Wearing parts will be probably the first parts you need. Filters, bulbs, fuses, brake pads, may be steering linkage, joints, a front knuckel rebuild set (seals, bearings ...) and a rear axle set (seals, bearings) ...
I would not recommend putting things (other than normal service items) in stock. Chances are high you have 100 parts but eventually lack part 101 at some point. Rather make a plan where to quickly get parts when needed. Check out sources.
And, most important: Use it and have fun with your rig!

 

[FJBen]

I fully agree with @Gun Runner 5 on the cooling system. Thats one thing I would do as preventative maintenance on pretty much any older rig. I'll spare everyone my long story again, but the previous owner blew the headgasket due to an old heater hose popping on the highway along with a cooling system not up to snuff.

New:
Water pump
Radiator Hoses
Heater Hoses
New Thermostat
radiator cap

Flush coolant
Pull radiator pressure test/repair if needed



I would also just start baselining away on maintenance...

Easy stuff like, filters:
Air
Fuel
Oil, & oil change
belts

Fluids:
transmission
T-case
diffs
clutch
brake

Then I would dig a little deeper.
Brakes
Knuckles/axles rebuild kit
Clean injectors


You can still get a ton of parts as they crossover to many other 70 series and 60 series. The impossible to find new are block/head/cam/crank, intakes/exhaust stuff like that. A few companies make full rebuild kits for it.


Where's the pictures!!!!

 

[JaymanWRS]

Thanks for the replies guys, I now have a good idea of what my priorities are. Definitely going to start with the easy things first. Shifting to 2nd gear is a bit crunchy when cold but gets better when it’s warmed up. I also noticed a clunk when pulling out of my drive way today. Should I be concerned?

Put in some OT at the shop today, But here are the pics. My friends 80 series on the right in the last pic.

You guys have been very helpful. I’ll definitely be back for more questions haha

 

[JuanJ]

Hello,

That is a very good looking 74.

Are the fog lights JDM?





Juan

 

[JaymanWRS]

Hello,

That is a very good looking 74.

Are the fog lights JDM?





Juan

Thanks! The fog lights are called IPF Super Rally Type M. I don’t think they are JDM. One of them cracked and doesn’t light up anymore. I’m going to replace them with some small ditch lights to get better airflow through my radiator.

 

[jblueridge]

Mine came with PIAA fog lights that size. They don’t block airflow in a measurable way.
I found using full synthetic gearbox oil made that shift into 2nd better.
Clunking sounds on mine were the spring shackle bushings in front springs.
If yours has ac, consider pulling the radiator so you can check for unseen rot on condenser side.

 

[Felde]

Very nice vehicle. Is that a PTO winch in working order?

 

[JaymanWRS]

Mine came with PIAA fog lights that size. They don’t block airflow in a measurable way.
I found using full synthetic gearbox oil made that shift into 2nd better.
Clunking sounds on mine were the spring shackle bushings in front springs.
If yours has ac, consider pulling the radiator so you can check for unseen rot on condenser side.

Ok noted, I’ll take a look. The clunking noise sometimes happens when I go over bumps while also turning.

 

[JaymanWRS]

Very nice vehicle. Is that a PTO winch in working order?

Thanks! Yeah the PTO winch works

 

[roscoFJ73]

Start looking for the elusive thermostat housing.

New 13BT upper thermostat housing 16331-58030 interest?

So my thermostat housing, both upper and lower, was corroded all to hell. Thankfully the lower housing is still available (though you will need a plug 90341-12006 for an extra hole), the upper...not so much and mine does not have a long life ahead of it. Rather than kludging together a...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[JaymanWRS]

Start looking for the elusive thermostat housing.

New 13BT upper thermostat housing 16331-58030 interest?

So my thermostat housing, both upper and lower, was corroded all to hell. Thankfully the lower housing is still available (though you will need a plug 90341-12006 for an extra hole), the upper...not so much and mine does not have a long life ahead of it. Rather than kludging together a...

forum.ih8mud.com

Okay, I'm searching far and wide but I don't think I will find one for a while. Mine isn't showing a lot of rust but what can I do to keep it from rusting out? Are there no other housings from other models that can fit or are there any upgrades I can do to not have to worry about it?

I'll make a post in the classifieds section now.

Thanks

 

[roscoFJ73]

Are there no other housings from other models that can fit or are there any upgrades I can do to not have to worry about it?

Its possible there are, but I thought others would have been there for a look already. They use B engines in buses and small trucks as well.

Its that time in history where if you have a nice 32 year old mwb landcruiser, its probably best to keep it in good condition and all original where possible. I would not be removing the roof (except to repair a seal) or chopping it up in anyway. And unless you want to smash it up on trails, I dont think you really to do much to them. Just a suspension kit and some decent tyres. If its on 15 inch rims, I would probably fit 16 inch rims to get a better choice of tyres.

Body parts will not get easier to find. Drivers doors, fenders are scarce. A spare windscreen might be a good idea. Pretty much anything , if you cant use it, maybe someone else will swap for something you need. Anything unique to the 13BT.
A wrecker I use to visit had 6 rust free rear quarter panels from mwb landcruisers but he threw them into the scrap metal bin because no one asked about them. They would be worth gold now but they ended up as some cheap chinese crap on Wish.

edit: Look after the FRP top.

 

[FJBen]

I agree with rosco on some of those points. My BJ74 had quite an adventurous life in Australia for 25 years before coming to the US. She's not perfect, a little rust, a few dents/dings but I try to keep her clean and as true to how she lived in Australia. Modified. ARB bumper, ARB lockers, turbo timer, lift, snorkel have been on this Rig a long time. It would take a lot of work to bring it back to stock, and honestly I don't want to do that.
I do however try not to do anything I can't reverse. I highly doubt I'm going to wheel this rig hard. I've wheeled other rigs hard and I just don't like to damage on trails and break stuff anymore. I'd rather explore, do some trails that I don't have to risk a lot of damage.


As for the H55F, I have 507,000km on mine and sometimes I have a slight grind between 1~2 shift sometimes. It happens more when cold, but I find slowing down my shifting almost 99% removes that issue when cold. It's a notchy transmission to begin with.

I would definitely protect that top although Ive taken mine off the past 2 years to enjoy it! Im going to get a soft top to protect more from the elements in the summer but I can tell you this rig gets washed, parked indoors, taken care of more than it has ever been in its whole life lol.

 

[MyCruiserisaHogBeast]

Nice ride!

Obviously all standard old truck/Cruiser stuff applies, but that's easy.

The 13B-T has some unique vacuum/fueling stuff that its best to learn about now. It took me a minute to get it all figured out. Learn where your vacuum shutoff solenoid is for emergencies, as that vacuum system ages chances are good you'll need it at some point.

I bought my 87 BJ74 in similar condition to yours. The first things to go were the clutch master (required a rebuild kit as they are unavailable, it worked well) and then the clutch booster seal. I'd get that stuff now and be ready. If the booster seal goes out, which I guess is common, you suddenly won't be able to shutdown with the key. Mine happened within a couple of months after I began daily driving it, and it took me a minute to figure out just what the hell was going on.

I would also just plan on going through the fuel system. I developed an air leak and ended up going through the entire system trying to find it. Turned out to be a bad primer (which I replaced first but the new compression washer was bad, causing me to go through the whole thing trying to figure it out). After going through it, I learned all about it and I highly recommend just going through it now. You can still get the little plastic washers for the fuel line connections new from Toyota, I'd stock up. The hose from the lift pump to the fuel filter housing is discontinued, you might want to have one made. While I was chasing leaks, I actually coated mine in RTV and wrapped it with gaffer tape to make sure that wasn't where the leak was, but I should have just replaced it. Other than that, like others have said, just do some research and collect any 13B-T specific parts. 24 v AC compressor is unique, but shares the design with a 6M Supra L6 from the 80s and early 90s, just have to swap out the 24 volt clutch. I also did an injector hot soak with Seafoam that really made a difference.

I've moved to a colder climate since I purchased it, and my trans can be a little stiff in the cold weather too. I just take time between shifts and all is well, and anytime its under 40 degrees I try and give it 10 mins to warm up, seems to make a huge difference. I haven't installed a block heater, just using glow screen heater and keeping anti-gel additive in the tank I've gotten it started with relatively low drama all the way down to 5 degrees F.

 

[JaymanWRS]

Nice ride!

Obviously all standard old truck/Cruiser stuff applies, but that's easy.

The 13B-T has some unique vacuum/fueling stuff that its best to learn about now. It took me a minute to get it all figured out. Learn where your vacuum shutoff solenoid is for emergencies, as that vacuum system ages chances are good you'll need it at some point.

I bought my 87 BJ74 in similar condition to yours. The first things to go were the clutch master (required a rebuild kit as they are unavailable, it worked well) and then the clutch booster seal. I'd get that stuff now and be ready. If the booster seal goes out, which I guess is common, you suddenly won't be able to shutdown with the key. Mine happened within a couple of months after I began daily driving it, and it took me a minute to figure out just what the hell was going on.

I would also just plan on going through the fuel system. I developed an air leak and ended up going through the entire system trying to find it. Turned out to be a bad primer (which I replaced first but the new compression washer was bad, causing me to go through the whole thing trying to figure it out). After going through it, I learned all about it and I highly recommend just going through it now. You can still get the little plastic washers for the fuel line connections new from Toyota, I'd stock up. The hose from the lift pump to the fuel filter housing is discontinued, you might want to have one made. While I was chasing leaks, I actually coated mine in RTV and wrapped it with gaffer tape to make sure that wasn't where the leak was, but I should have just replaced it. Other than that, like others have said, just do some research and collect any 13B-T specific parts. 24 v AC compressor is unique, but shares the design with a 6M Supra L6 from the 80s and early 90s, just have to swap out the 24 volt clutch. I also did an injector hot soak with Seafoam that really made a difference.

I've moved to a colder climate since I purchased it, and my trans can be a little stiff in the cold weather too. I just take time between shifts and all is well, and anytime its under 40 degrees I try and give it 10 mins to warm up, seems to make a huge difference. I haven't installed a block heater, just using glow screen heater and keeping anti-gel additive in the tank I've gotten it started with relatively low drama all the way down to 5 degrees F.

Thanks! I’ve been slowly crawling under the car and looking under the hood to get familiar with how things work. As for the parts, who can I contact to help me source parts for the 13bt? I’ve been trying to find some parts people have mentioned but it usually comes up as out of stock or discontinued.

 

[FJBen]

Thanks! I’ve been slowly crawling under the car and looking under the hood to get familiar with how things work. As for the parts, who can I contact to help me source parts for the 13bt? I’ve been trying to find some parts people have mentioned but it usually comes up as out of stock or discontinued.

There are a few MUD vendors that can help you acquire parts.

Cruiser Outfitters: @cruiseroutfit
Valley Hybrids @orangefj45

A few websites if you are a DIY researcher:

www.partsouq.com Great site, cheap prices super fast shipping, shipping can be $$$ for larger pieces. Can put your VIN in to get the right parts.
www.megazip.net another cheap site, I've had better luck with partsouq, but many use this.
www.toyodiy.com Good to look up parts and vehicle info by VIN.

 

[roscoFJ73]

As for the parts, who can I contact to help me source parts for the 13bt?

Your best resource is yourself, by getting part numbers to search online for availability and price.
Its nice to be able to have a rapport with someone local, but its likely they will only have a small % of parts you may need. You cant even get everything at a dealer.
Sometimes with Landcruisers, certain parts only came in certain markets and in certain years. The Japanese, European and Australian BJ74 had a few differences regarding the rear seating and seatbelts and rollbar.