1984 FJ60 Hard Starting When Sitting Overnight (1 Viewer)

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Gretsch

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Hello mud. Me again with another FJ60 issue. Warning lots of reading ahead. As the title states I have issues starting my truck when it sits overnight. This has been going on now for maybe a year. When I first got the truck, it had a recently rebuilt carb, and starting was not an issue. Idling was. Now it seems that idling is fine but starting the truck is tough. I opened a thread on the idling issue and this great forum was able to set me straight on what the issue was (turns out it was the ICS not grounding properly). I have found many threads on this seemingly common starting issue, but not many answers. I have brought this issue up as an add-on issue to my ICS thread I had out there, but wanted to see if I could get additional traction with a thread specific to the starting problem. Again I realize this has been brought up before so apologies in advance for adding to the search fodder.

The issue is this. The truck runs great, idles great, has good power and acceleration (as best as can be expected with the 2F)….once its started for the day. In the morning, after sitting overnight, if I try and start the truck, it takes forever to catch and start. Sometimes 15-20 minutes of me trying various methods to get it going (pump pedal, don't pump pedal, choke out, choke in, etc.). Its garaged each night. If outside, it takes even longer. @OSS has posted methods to how to start these trucks in the various hard starting threads I mentioned, and I have tried those many times. They don't seem to work for me however.

Here is usually how it goes for me. Truck is driven daily. Up to work, drive her back home and she sits. Next day then goes like this:
1. Get in, and pump the pedal about 4 times. Pull out choke full. Try starting. Just cranks and cranks. I give it a rest and try again. Cranks and cranks.
2. Put choke in. Try to start again. Cranks and cranks. Nothing.
3. Wait about 2 minutes. Crank again. Just cranks and cranks.
4. Repeat this method maybe 3-4 times. Then rest it for another 2 minutes. Turn key completely off each rest period.
5. Try to start again. This time it sounds initially like its gonna start real quick, then goes back to the crank, crank.
6. Wait another turn minutes or so, key off. Then try to start again. Again sounds like its gonna start almost immediately, but then doesn't and goes back to crank, crank, crank.
7. Wait another 2 minutes, key off. This time it immediately sounds like its gonna start several times. Sounds like its struggling to catch and run but is trying hard to. Keeping the starter going with it doing this finally gets the engine to catch and ignite.
8. The engine then slowly starts to gurgle up to idle with me giving some gas to get the RPMs up. Sounds like its trying to almost die, but then giving it gas, eventually gets it to normal engine speed. Almost like its flooded out with too much fuel and it takes a second to burn off the excess until it finally gets to normal fuel flow and thus idle.
9. I pull choke out to get it to run a bit and warm up. Once run for about 3-4 minutes I put the choke in and it runs perfect from there.
10. Truck sits all day while at work. Lately, I'll have to repeat this whole process to get it started to go home at the end of the day.

Again the above is just the basic way it goes. I have tried various starting methods to try and improve things but nothing seems to change anything. I have also experienced this same truck, without changing anything, fire up almost immediately, almost too quickly to the point of startling me when it happens. But it typically has gone as described in the steps above. When the above happens, I do see fuel in the sight glass. It seems to have to 'fill' up the float bowl with fuel, but I think this is fairly normal for a truck sitting overnight. I am also aware, that this is a 30+ year old vehicle, so I understand perhaps if this whole thing is to be expected and is normal. The reason I bring it up here is because it used to not do this.

Full disclosure here, this starting issue seemed to coincide with the ICS grounding fix. I initially did the ground bypass mod, and it seemed to handle things for the most part with regards to the ICS issue. But then I re-flowed the solder on the engine computer for the ICS ground leads and removed the ground bypass and it has not been an issue since. I thought maybe that the ICS ground bypass mod has caused the hard start issue, so I was motivated to fix the ICS thing properly thinking it might handle my hard start issue. It hasn't so I think its purely coincidental that the hard starting started during the ICS issue. The fact that fuel is seen in the sight glass tells me that fuel is getting to the carb which if the ICS was closed because of a still-present ICS issue, would not occur as I understand the ICS to physically work. I suppose the act of placing the ground wire on the carb the way you do to do this mod could have changed something with the carb setup and how it works. But who knows.

I noticed recently that it looks like I have a slight leak at the sight glass. Could this contribute to fuel not being able to flow properly into the intake to allow the engine to start? Would a leak cause the pressures required to vaporize fuel into the air stream to not be correct, thus causing hard starts? It seems to me that it would just empty the bowl each night causing the need for the starting process above to be performed to fill the carb with fuel. I can smell fuel when trying to start the truck using the above procedure. But it refills quickly so not sure why its so hard to start. It seems to have fuel. Just does not use it. Perhaps having the fuel empty due to a leak, requires time for the fuel to properly vaporize into the intake when the bowl is refilled. I think if I were to stop this leak, it might fix things. But wanted to throw it out to the experts here. I could not find anywhere if the sight glass and gasket could be replaced separately as a part? Or am I looking at a whole new carb to handle this?

A few other things I want to mention here. I do not have any 'whoosh' sounds when opening the factory gas cap. I just purchased some new fuel line to replace my existing lines. Lines on here look original so replacing mine won't hurt. I am also getting together new battery cables to make sure were are set electrically and something like a poor ground is not causing poor ignitor functionality. Mine appear OK but new ones won't hurt IMO. New fuel filter is on order. One on here is about a year old but a new one won't hurt. I tried the grounding trick from the ignitor case to a good ground but it did nothing.

Thanks in advance for the help, and sorry for all the reading. Trying to be as thorough as possible here.
 
I would suggest checking the float and needlevalve in the float bowl of the carb, ethanol fuels tend to degrade the Viton tip of the needle, which allows fuel to seep out overnight.

Another way to try starting is to begin with cranking, choke off, about ten seconds, pushing fuel into empty carb, turn off key, wait five-ten seconds, pump four times on throttle, wait five-ten seconds, crank ten seconds. If it catches and starts, then pull choke. If it just cranks, then turn off key, pump four times on throttle, wait five-ten seconds, crank for ten seconds... Hopefully this helps. My 60 is a cold starter too.
 
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For a reference point:

mine is an 84 with stock carb, all emmission stuff, new plugs, cap, rotor, wires, air and fuel filters, fresh oil change and filter. Here in Vermont its cold and I'm not daily driving. When I start my truck up to spin things and warm up now and then the winter temp is often below 0C/32F.

my method:
1. choke 100%
2. pump pedal 4 times and crank for a few turns.
3. pump 4 and crank
4. pump 4 and crank
I just repeat this until it starts to stumble and then catch. It takes a few tries of pump and then crank before it fires and runs enough that I can feather the throttle and get the revs up a little to get some heat in the block so it stays running.
 
I'm a 62 owner but have experienced hard to start issues twice since I've owned my rig.
No woosh sound - get a new gas cap
Two mechanical tweaks -
First..double check your timing. If too far advanced it may crank but not start. That fixed my first experience with hard start.
Second... check your fusible links coming off your positive battery cable for corrosion. I peeled back all of the electrical tape and found an almost separated wire which was the cause of my second hard start issue.
Not sure if these apply to your situation but thought I'd share.
 
I'm a 62 owner but have experienced hard to start issues twice since I've owned my rig.
No woosh sound - get a new gas cap
Two mechanical tweaks -
First..double check your timing. If too far advanced it may crank but not start. That fixed my first experience with hard start.
Second... check your fusible links coming off your positive battery cable for corrosion. I peeled back all of the electrical tape and found an almost separated wire which was the cause of my second hard start issue.
Not sure if these apply to your situation but thought I'd share.

OK I'll check the fusible links.

So are you saying the gas cap should whoosh when opening it and the fact mine doesn't means I should get a new cap?

I realized I failed to mention my truck is totally de-smogged. Stock everything. The PO had a full tune done before selling it to me. New cap/rotor, wires, plugs, etc. Also had the carb rebuilt. Been roughly two years ago now.
 
There should be no whoosh from the gas cap.

As a follow up, after you get it started, warmed up and then shut it down, does it start easy?
 
OK I'll check the fusible links.

So are you saying the gas cap should whoosh when opening it and the fact mine doesn't means I should get a new cap?

I realized I failed to mention my truck is totally de-smogged. Stock everything. The PO had a full tune done before selling it to me. New cap/rotor, wires, plugs, etc. Also had the carb rebuilt. Been roughly two years ago now.

Rob,
I’m not familiar with carburetors and mine is a 62 with EFI so I’ll defer to 60s owners on whoosh. Modern cars need to be pressurized which is why your check engine light comes on if you don’t fully close the cap cap. I know in mine I had to replace the gas cap and it now whooshes like a modern car even after sitting overnight. Again, this may not be the case in carbureted rigs.
 
This is what I'd try- Engine stone cold in the morning:

Troubleshooting-
Get in the car but don't pump the gas pedal or pull the choke. Just push in the clutch w gearbox in neutral and crank over the starter maybe 8 cycles. You can hear the repetition of each cycle. The engine won't start (and you're not trying to start it at this point).

Doing this activate the fuel pump, hopefully pushing fuel up into the float bowl of the carb. That's all you want at this point.

Pull the hood latch and get out of the car and take a look at the inspection window in the carb. Shake the car to see if you can see fuel sloshing inside the float bowl. Fuel will likely be below 1/2 level and maybe a bit hard to see, but if you've got a flashlight and shake the truck, you should see some gas sloshing.

If you see some gas, good. If not, repeat above.

The next step is to see if the acceleration pump is working properly.

Remove the air cleaner cover.
Grab the throttle linkage while peering down the carb throat and twist it fully and quickly. You should see a strong squirt of fuel jet down into the manifold.
If so? Good
If it's a weak dribble or nothing, that could be the culprit.

So if you've got fuel and a strong squirter, check to make sure that the choke plate fully seals off the carb throat when it's fully pulled. If the choke has an air gap, you don't really have a choke and starting a cold engine can be a lot harder.

If everything checks out ok so far, put the air cleaner housing back on.

Make sure that the Outer Vent Control Valve on the charcoal canister functions correctly. It should click when the ignition is turned to ON and it should prevent any air from flowing through it.

If the OVCV doesn't shut off air flow through it when ignition is ON, starting the engine can be a bear. It's a vacuum leak through the float bowl. Not sure why it causes that havoc, but I know it does.

If you're smelling gasoline fumes during your 8 minute starting marathon hellfest, the engine could be flooded and the choke and pumping the gas pedal makes it even worse.

So now I'd try to start it the next morning like this:

  1. Crank over engine 6 revolutions (by listening to the cycles). Don't pump gas. Don't pull choke. Keep foot off pedal.
  2. Now pull the choke knob fully
  3. Quickly pump down the gas pedal and ease up normally 3 times (since flooding might be your issue)
  4. Wait 30 seconds doing nothing but praying to the cruiser gods
  5. With foot off gas pedal and clutch pushed in, crank over the starter
  6. The engine should at least grab for a moment then maybe peter out. If it peters out, fine. It ran out of fuel. Kinda normal. Just pump the gas pedal another 3 times and try again with foot off pedal.
If it sputters & stumbles at second try, finess the gas pedal to try to keep it running. Or try again repeating the steps above.

In my experience, when all the components of the 2F are working as they should, the thing fires up every time. Well almost every time..
 
#4 above . . .
30 seconds is all? Yep.

What Fred said.
 
Make sure that the Outer Vent Control Valve on the charcoal canister functions correctly. It should click when the ignition is turned to ON and it should prevent any air from flowing through it.

If the OVCV doesn't shut off air flow through it when ignition is ON, starting the engine can be a bear. It's a vacuum leak through the float bowl. Not sure why it causes that havoc, but I know it does.

Well, hell... Is this click similar to what the ICS sounds like?
 
There should be no whoosh from the gas cap.

As a follow up, after you get it started, warmed up and then shut it down, does it start easy?

Yes it will start easy after that. I can get it started and warm and then shut it down like stopping at a store or something, then come out and it starts right up. Almost too fast.
 
This is what I'd try- Engine stone cold in the morning:

Troubleshooting-
Get in the car but don't pump the gas pedal or pull the choke. Just push in the clutch w gearbox in neutral and crank over the starter maybe 8 cycles. You can hear the repetition of each cycle. The engine won't start (and you're not trying to start it at this point).

Doing this activate the fuel pump, hopefully pushing fuel up into the float bowl of the carb. That's all you want at this point.

Pull the hood latch and get out of the car and take a look at the inspection window in the carb. Shake the car to see if you can see fuel sloshing inside the float bowl. Fuel will likely be below 1/2 level and maybe a bit hard to see, but if you've got a flashlight and shake the truck, you should see some gas sloshing.

If you see some gas, good. If not, repeat above.

The next step is to see if the acceleration pump is working properly.

Remove the air cleaner cover.
Grab the throttle linkage while peering down the carb throat and twist it fully and quickly. You should see a strong squirt of fuel jet down into the manifold.
If so? Good
If it's a weak dribble or nothing, that could be the culprit.

So if you've got fuel and a strong squirter, check to make sure that the choke plate fully seals off the carb throat when it's fully pulled. If the choke has an air gap, you don't really have a choke and starting a cold engine can be a lot harder.

If everything checks out ok so far, put the air cleaner housing back on.

Make sure that the Outer Vent Control Valve on the charcoal canister functions correctly. It should click when the ignition is turned to ON and it should prevent any air from flowing through it.

If the OVCV doesn't shut off air flow through it when ignition is ON, starting the engine can be a bear. It's a vacuum leak through the float bowl. Not sure why it causes that havoc, but I know it does.

If you're smelling gasoline fumes during your 8 minute starting marathon hellfest, the engine could be flooded and the choke and pumping the gas pedal makes it even worse.

So now I'd try to start it the next morning like this:

  1. Crank over engine 6 revolutions (by listening to the cycles). Don't pump gas. Don't pull choke. Keep foot off pedal.
  2. Now pull the choke knob fully
  3. Quickly pump down the gas pedal and ease up normally 3 times (since flooding might be your issue)
  4. Wait 30 seconds doing nothing but praying to the cruiser gods
  5. With foot off gas pedal and clutch pushed in, crank over the starter
  6. The engine should at least grab for a moment then maybe peter out. If it peters out, fine. It ran out of fuel. Kinda normal. Just pump the gas pedal another 3 times and try again with foot off pedal.
If it sputters & stumbles at second try, finess the gas pedal to try to keep it running. Or try again repeating the steps above.

In my experience, when all the components of the 2F are working as they should, the thing fires up every time. Well almost every time..

OK I will try this in the AM and report back.

Incidentally after my initial post, an odd thing happened. Its hovering around 32 degrees here in Texas today with rain all day and threat of snow. Yeah right. Point is its cold for this part of the world. So at work all day. Go out to try and start this beast, and she is having none of it. Talks back a lot today. Boss comes walking over to 'see if he can help'. So I popped hood and look into sight glass. Plenty of fuel. OK. She cranks and cranks and I don't even get the slightest hint of her trying to start. OK. So as I am in the car trying to start the thing, my boss puts his finger over this little tube coming off the carb/carb area:

IMG_4122.jpg

and the damn thing fires right up. Like nothing was wrong. I was cranking it, he puts finger over tube, and bam she is running. I pull choke and she runs like nothing happened. Apologies here. I have admittedly not had time to look into what this thing is or whats supposed to be connected to it (my project for tomorrow). Its clear however I have something wrong with how the truck is setup. Must have a hose missing. Any ideas why doing this would have any effect on this thing starting?

Also it seems the fuel leak is much more prominent than I originally realized. I think this sight glass window needs to be replaced. IS that a replaceable thing or am I looking at a whole new carb for that? Thanks all for the replies.
 
If desmogged I would cap it. That’s how mine is and works like a charm capped.
 
If desmogged I would cap it. That’s how mine is and works like a charm capped.

Holy crap, @ceylonfj40nut, you are the s***. I read this post and started thinking about this some. I looked back on an old photo I had of when I originally got the truck and discovered this:

IMG_2174.JPG

Hey look everyone, theres a red cap on that tube in this photo. :doh::bang: Where that cap is now is anyone's guess. This would certainly explain why it worked at first and then stopped. Geeze man, now I feel like a real a**clown. I'll get another cap and see if that improves things.
 
So yeah. I capped the tube this morning. Thing started right up. Carb is tweaked for use without a cap so had to adjust the idle speed up some to keep it idling. Once that was done it ran fine. I just had time to do a quick and dirty adjustment so will have to spend some more time with the old girl to get it dialed in perfect. But seems that cap fixed my starting issue....at least for now. I don't know where the original cap went. As I mentioned when I first got the truck it had intermittent idle issues. I tried so many things to get it to idle correctly, that it appears I lost track of this little cap, and somehow I left it off the truck. Obviously forgotten all about it. When @ceylonfj40nut mentioned this in his post, I got to thinking and seemed to recall there was a cap on this thing when I got it. Remembered it being red too. Checked photos and sure enough there it was. Geeze what an idiot. Anyway thanks all for the help. You guys and gals have been so helpful from the start with this thing. I have said it many times, but there is no way I could own one of these without this forum. Thanks, thanks. Maybe some day I'll post something actually useful. :)
 
It is exactly why I love this forum. To learn and to share what we have as experience wit others. I am constantly amazed at the selflessness of many. Paying it forward is always good for the soul.
 
Robert, I am in Richardson. Perhaps we should get together.
 
Robert, I am in Richardson. Perhaps we should get together.

Man, would love that. I don't know anyone who owns one of these where I am. Folks here just throw stuff away when it breaks, so what I am trying to do with this truck is a little unconventional around these parts. I saw a new woody 60 driving around over the holiday I had not seen before which was encouraging. Tried to chase him down to talk but our destinations did not line up and I lost him. I am up in Plano near Frisco (right next to the new Toyota HQ I might add).

Looks like you have quite a collection. Would love to take a look. So yeah, would love to hang out. Whenever you have time.
 
There are a few cruiserheads in the area. Checkout the North Texas chapter of Toyota Land Cruiser Association (TLCA). They meet monthly in Dallas. PM me your contact info.
 

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