NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Rockauto has the Aisin fan clutch for $63.79 right now.
1983 FJ60 coolant system flush and overhaul (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter fjgdk
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- Thread starter
- #22
I got the OEM pump, thermostat and two gaskets for about $120 with shipping.
I've been able to do my own shopping via using the parts diagrams on villagetoyotaparts.com for original numbers, taking those originial numbers to toyotapartsdeal for new superceding numbers and detailed info and then with the correct current number from there looking for the lowest price online.
Oftentimes amayama is the lowest but you want to buy alot to make the shipping worthwhile.
Its not that hard to determine the oem parts numbers you need if you do some online digging.
I've made up a complete oem set of rear brake hardware (a ton of little springs and small items) on my own. Best price would be amayam in that case. Othertimes it's been Toyotapartsdeal.
I've been able to do my own shopping via using the parts diagrams on villagetoyotaparts.com for original numbers, taking those originial numbers to toyotapartsdeal for new superceding numbers and detailed info and then with the correct current number from there looking for the lowest price online.
Oftentimes amayama is the lowest but you want to buy alot to make the shipping worthwhile.
Its not that hard to determine the oem parts numbers you need if you do some online digging.
I've made up a complete oem set of rear brake hardware (a ton of little springs and small items) on my own. Best price would be amayam in that case. Othertimes it's been Toyotapartsdeal.
- Thread starter
- #23
Thanks I may have to consider that; I assume it is a replacement for 16210-61121 ? The cheapest OEM I've seen are about $175.
https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem...r=(d=USA;1=2F;6=4F;0=FJ60LG-KA)&Location=pd:,
I haven't tested the fan yet as I got caught up in work yesterday. However, if it does prove faulty I will try to refill it with fluid first. The logic behind that is because I see the clutch as an "infinite loop" problem based on this:
1) Toyota fans from the factory weren't filled to a level optimized for fuel efficiency, not neccessarily engine longevity (i.e. let them run a little hotter than they should before the fan engages).
2) Getting a new fan means you are still getting the suboptimal turn on point.
3) Based on what I've read online (MUD and elsewhere), many suggest cracking open the clutch and refilling to a greater level than factory.
4) Following from 3), I would want to modify a new fan just like an old fan, so may as well start with an attempt on the old fan.
This is my theory/story behind my statements above, based on different pieces on information from the web and the 2F FSM:
A) 2F FSM Publication dated 36104E published Aug 1980 shows a water pump "direct" and "with coupler" (ie with clutch and without).
B) US Fuel crisis in 1970's -> need to increase fuel efficiency -> put clutch on cooling fans so they aren't always engaged. In fact engage them only at somewhat sub-optimally hot temperatures.
C) What I've read and seen online is Cruiser owners doing the mod of adding more silicon oil to the clutch fans for a better engagement.
So my story in B is based on the FSM and it's publication dates and things I've seen on the web.
Scientific? Sort of but not really.
https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem...r=(d=USA;1=2F;6=4F;0=FJ60LG-KA)&Location=pd:,
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Ever hear of analysis paralysis? Just get it done.
I think the point with the clutch tests is to get the engine HOT. I can't vouch for the newspaper test, never done it. The other test I mentioned. - shuttting the engine off while watching the fan to see if it stops or coasts - has been infallible. I learned that method on old Chevys long before I got my Cruiser.
I also don't think the OEM fan clutch is a compromise in cooling vs fuel efficiency, at least not for "normal" driving. I can't comment on slow speed activities like rock crawling because I don't do that kind of stuff. But for normal wheeling, camping etc. across the desert southwest, ambient temps routinely 100F, extremes to 115F, I've never thought the fan clutch was lacking from a cooling perspective.
None of which is meant to suggest you shouldn't continue with your original goal of overhauling the rest of your cooling system.
I also don't think the OEM fan clutch is a compromise in cooling vs fuel efficiency, at least not for "normal" driving. I can't comment on slow speed activities like rock crawling because I don't do that kind of stuff. But for normal wheeling, camping etc. across the desert southwest, ambient temps routinely 100F, extremes to 115F, I've never thought the fan clutch was lacking from a cooling perspective.
None of which is meant to suggest you shouldn't continue with your original goal of overhauling the rest of your cooling system.
- Thread starter
- #28
OK I got the water pump and thermostat in the mail today. I have a few questions:
1) Regarding the thermostat, I received the item shown below (part number 90916-03052) and there was no round rubber gasket.
Did I get ripped off or is the rubber gasket (individual part number 9043043002) always sold seperately ?
I did get the housing gasket, which is shaped as a square sort of, but not the perfectly round rubber piece.
2) The thermostat has a little dangling loose metal piece attached to it. Is this supposed to be that way?
1) Regarding the thermostat, I received the item shown below (part number 90916-03052) and there was no round rubber gasket.
Did I get ripped off or is the rubber gasket (individual part number 9043043002) always sold seperately ?
I did get the housing gasket, which is shaped as a square sort of, but not the perfectly round rubber piece.
2) The thermostat has a little dangling loose metal piece attached to it. Is this supposed to be that way?
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
yes the o-ring gasket is always sold separately.. and yes the t-stat has that small protrusion.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Huh. Mine is a stant and doesn't have that. But yeah the o-ring is a separate purchase.
- Thread starter
- #31
Thanks for the info !
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
There are two different t-stats that you can get... wonder if that is the difference (physically) between that 190* and the 170*(?).....
- Thread starter
- #33
Mine is the 190 degree one.
Any preference on coolant (prestone, valvoline) to refill with ?
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Not really, just make sure it is the pure green stuff, not the pre-diluted. Follow instructions in the FSMs (check my sig line if you dont have them yet).
The little metal dongle that dangles in the little hole at the top of the t-stat is a "bubble bleed hole dongle thingy". The little hole is there to burp air bubbles to keep the thermostat always fully submerged, and the dongle is is there to keep the hole clean so it doesn't plug up.
@NeverGiveUpYota - get rid of that thing.
@NeverGiveUpYota - get rid of that thing.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #38
Hey about not using diluted anti-freeze; I don't see anywhere in the manuals where it says use pure stuff. Can you elaborate on your comment. Any info helps, I just don't want to screw anything up.
Note from publication 36780A:
"Use a good brand of ethylene glycol based coolant, mixed according to the manufacturer's instructions."
- Thread starter
- #40
Yes I always understood that concentrated green ethelyne glycol is to be diluted (usually 50/50) with de-ionized water. The question I had was about what gregnash said (my addition of bold underline):
"Not really, just make sure it is the pure green stuff, not the pre-diluted."
I had never heard NOT to mix the concentrate with de-ionized water.
As it stands now, I purchased 3 Gallons of the Prestone pre-diluted/5050 from Walmart yesterday for this project.
