1982 FJ60 Prepurchase ?'s

[CMD82]

Hey guys, I have been lurking around here for a while, and have read some very interesting things. You all have a great weath of knowledge. I have read the sticky thread on FJ60/62's, and searched extensivly.

I am looking at purchasing a 1982 FJ60. It will not be my DD. It has 125K on it and very little rust. Just a little bit around the rear wheel wells. Typical I guess. It is the 2nd owner, and pretty clean for the most part. It has not been driven much in the last year or two, some things are probably out of adjustment. I am prepared to do a full tune up, complete with all new fluids, belts, plugs, wires, PCV, valve cover gasket, valve adj, and anything else I can think of. The guy is asking $800-$900. The tires and brakes are in fair shape, it needs a new windshield to pass inspection. Based upon reading here I think that the front knuckes are leaking a bit. Other than that the truck starts right up and runs very strong. I was rather impressed with the power. The clutch does not slip or chatter at all.

My question is should I take it to a shop for a pre purchase inspection for $70?
They would go through everything else. What specifically, I do not know. They do not a compression test. That I would do myself, which I planned to do before purchase anyways. I also would like to do a vacuum test, which I read about here.

Is there anything else I am forgetting, that I can do myself or have the shop do while its in for a prepurchase inspection?

Thanks,
Chris

 

[fsusteve]

From your description and he's asking $800 and it runs good? I would just buy it now. That's a steal even if it has some issues.

 

[VTCruiser]

Original paint? ask and investigate about any body work done, fresh paint can hind A LOT, and don't forgat about the frame!....otherwise...BUY IT!

 

[CMD82]

Steve,

Thanks for the quick response. Do you think that I should even do a compression test myself? Any tips on the precedure for that?

Thanks,
Chris

 

[CMD82]

VT Cruiser,

Yea the paint is original. It has faded some in places and has worn thin in those same places. The frame has some surface rust but NO rot at all. I just am unfamiliar with carbs. I have always had EFI toyotas.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[fsusteve]

If you have the tester, it's pretty straight forward, just bump the starter on each cylinder. But to be honest, if it feels like it makes good power, ain't blowing tons of smoke and idles ok, I wouldn't mess with it. If that truck was here, I'd buy it from just your description.

 

[CMD82]

Steve,

I was posting over on Cool Cruisers discussion board and one of the guys there said that I should take all the plugs out and have someone hold the gas down to the floor while I check the compression. Also should I do a wet/dry comparission?
Thanks,
chris

 

[fsusteve]

I have no idea what they're talking about, but what I don't know could fill volumes. If you have the compression tester, just do a dry test at first. If the numbers are more than a 10% difference, pour a little oil (wet) in each cylinder and check again. This tells you if it's rings or valves leaking by.

Pull one plug, screw in the tester and bump the starter a couple of times. Make note of the number and move on. DO NOT start the engine while doing it.

 

[swank60]

I agree - sounds like a steal.

On the compression test though, do it when the engine is at full temp. You could do a wet/dry test, and that will tell you how your valve seats/guides are (do a google search for wet dry compression test and read up) - the only reason to do a dry only is to see if the cyls are wearing evenly. I think factory compression is 148 psi. Anything below 120 is a pass (I think the FSM says 114 psi).

Vac test is easier and can tell you about the valves. Get a vac guage, they come with good instructions, and depending on what it's pulling and how the needle reacts, you can learn a lot about the engine. I'd almost do that before any other test.

Ask the owner about oil consumption, too. Look for leaks and when you drive it, listen to the transmission and drive line. Also check around the rear brake drums for any signs of leakage/grease or oil - could point to bad axle seals.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Ditto what fsusteve said. You can part it out for more than $800.00. My only concern would be emmissions. I've talked with numerous early FJ60 owners here in SW Idaho that have had to rebuild and/or buy new carbs to pass emmisions. One guy even converted to TBI because of emissions.

 

[swank60]

There are about 30 different ways to do a compression test. All of them are right/wrong. Do what Steve says - there's no sense in doing all of that - just check for even wear. (just do it with the engine warm)

Stick with the vac test. With the engine running, you should pull baout 17 hgs. if the needle jerks back and forth, there's a problem with the valves (burnt, etc) if it's low, I think that's a vac leak...etc.

One thing you may want to do, depending on the inspection standard of your area - if you have to pass a smog test, take it to a station and have it hooked up to a gas analyzer. If it won't pass, ask the tech what the fix might be. If it's a lot or they don't know, and you plan to have it streetable (even if it's not a DD) you'll need to evaluate the purchase from there.

If you're not very mechanical, you may pay the mechnic to look at it, but I don't think they'll do much over pulling the tires and looking at the brakes and shaking the drive shafts. Get a list of the things they do and maybe you can just do it yourself. They do require a good bi of maintenance, so you may as well start on it now.

 

[swank60]

Man, I'm a slow poster today...

 

[archie]

It looks like you should do fine without a pre purchase inspection because it seems you already know what to look for. Just imagine what a inspection person would check for 70 bucks, probably the exact same things you already know about. Best to find somebody on this board to go with you to see if they can find problems also. Good Luck.

 

[Mike S]

Check PS pump, smog pump, clutch hydraulics (does it leak?), and Tcase for function. If good, write check.

Then go to Toyota dealer and buy Field Service Manual set.

Mike S

 

[CMD82]

Darn guys I walk away from my desk for 20 minutes and I have a slew of answers. Thanks for all the tips/advice for a novice.

Mike S.
[QUOTE]Check PS pump, smog pump, clutch hydraulics (does it leak?), and Tcase for function. If good, write check.[/QUOTE] - I did not notice a PS leak, I'll look again. Clutch felt good, 4WD worked fine. How do I check for smog pump operation?

swank60

listen to the transmission and drive line. Also check around the rear brake drums for any signs of leakage/grease or oil - could point to bad axle seals.[/QUOTE

] - The drive line sounded fine, I noticed some noise from the tranny, but nothing that sounded out of the ordinary, maybe the differece between my newer truck and this 22 year old truck. No leakage around the rear brake drums at all. They are very dry. The E-brake is very much OUT of adjustment though.

swank60
[QUOTE]Stick with the vac test. With the engine running, you should pull baout 17 hgs. if the needle jerks back and forth, there's a problem with the valves (burnt, etc) if it's low, I think that's a vac leak...etc.[/QUOTE] - Where do I hook the vac guage up?

Thanks for the help,
Chris

 

[Mike S]

Darn guys I walk away from my desk for 20 minutes and I have a slew of answers. Thanks for all the tips/advice for a novice.

Mike S.
[QUOTE]Check PS pump, smog pump, clutch hydraulics (does it leak?), and Tcase for function. If good, write check.[/QUOTE] - I did not notice a PS leak, I'll look again. Clutch felt good, 4WD worked fine. How do I check for smog pump operation?...

Thanks for the help,
Chris

Look for any evidence of oil on or in the pump. be sure it runs smoothly. For certainty, do a smog pre-test - Abut $45 in CA - criticality depends on your states emmissions laws.

It is pretty common for the clutch master cylinder to leak - check behind the clutch on the inside of the firewall. You might be drippings or wet fluid on the carpet. This is pretty easily fixed, tho'.

Mike S

 

[swank60]

On the vac guage, just find somewhere after the carb on the intake manifold. I'd bet that the line that comes off of the manifold and hooks to the brake power assist would be a good one, as it won't effect the system.

a good quick check on the smog pump is to pull the hose that leads to the air injection rail, which runs the length of the head and has 6 air inlets that screw directly into the head, part #20 in the diagram is the AI rail. The hose to pull is #60. There should be air blowing out of the hose and into the air injeciton rail. If there's no air, or if hot air is coming out of part #25, the check valve, there's an issue that will need work. (this isn't to say that it'll still pass emissions testing - sometimes the pump is worn or it's a cheap reman and doens't produce enough volume to be effective...that's a whole new can of worms, though.)

Also, the best place to check for a leaky PS pump is on top of the smog pump. If there's a puddle of ATF on top of it, it's the PS pump.

 

[et3surge]

Wow what a quick topic. I I am not the expert for you to get advice on...PS steering pump is only $106 rebuilt at Napa so forget that ...cheap fix anyway. I will say this however, if you don't want it for that price drop me a line...where is it?

 

[Landpimp]

its $800 and your thinking of having it inspected? if I was the seller I would be laughing my ass off(if you told me)..........its $800! and prolly a deal..........its gonna have some issues and if it doesn't its the a FREAKIN steal

really sounds like a good buy

 

[ERICH]

BUY IT! No wait, what's this guys phone #? Just kidding, most parts cruisers are more than that. Paying $70 is waste of money to have someone who doesn't know Cruisers look at it, if you know even a little bit about cars you should be fine without one. If it comes to it you could make your money back off selling all the doors alone. With a tune up it should pass emmissions and if not just find a place that is more "lax" about such things. As far as carb stuff goes, it may take quite a few pumps and the the use of the choke to get it started if it hasn't been started in a while. Once it warms up if it runs at least decent I would buy it in a second. If you decide to pass on it send me a PM.
Hope this helps you out.
ERICH