- Thread starter
- #21
The owner just wants to run the Raptor liner and rubber floor mats on each side. Pop a drain plug and rinse out the floor occasionally and vacuum the mat. Since it is intended to be a hunting truck he didn't want carpet.
1981 Pickup Rebuild - SR5 Longbed (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter WoodsTruck
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
Nothing major gets accomplished but just a lot of little things.
- Thread starter
- #23
Doors finally hung and one fender installed. Door panels ready to go on and the lower coated kick panel turned out good.
@WoodsTruck I may have to get a petition started to keep this beautiful little truck from being used as a hunting truck 
But really... wow. That looks great.
But really... wow. That looks great.
- Thread starter
- #25
I'll pass that along.
Doors are picky and slow. One is done, the other should go faster.
Doors are picky and slow. One is done, the other should go faster.
- Thread starter
- #26
Ok, another summer is fast approaching.
Question on upgrading the anemic alternator to a GM higher output from a Camaro. Any suggestions on how this gets wired up the best?
Power Steering: Current set up is stock height with manual box. Owner is interested in PS but may lift/gear/tire the truck sometime. Any options other than factory PS for that age truck, or lift 3-4" and go with a cross over system using a newer IFS box?
Thanks for looking
Question on upgrading the anemic alternator to a GM higher output from a Camaro. Any suggestions on how this gets wired up the best?
Power Steering: Current set up is stock height with manual box. Owner is interested in PS but may lift/gear/tire the truck sometime. Any options other than factory PS for that age truck, or lift 3-4" and go with a cross over system using a newer IFS box?
Thanks for looking
If you're going to lift it anyway, go with Hysteer. But you don't have to. I ran a 3" lift for years with the stock steering. I also had am 82 4x4 for a while with 33s, 3" lift, and manual steering.
- Thread starter
- #29
Nothing current. I rebuilt the kitchen this summer for the wife. Neighbors Yota got sidelined. He is itching to go hunting so it will likely get dusted off next spring.
Man I here ya on the hunting thing,,we run into that as well around here,,but I sure do like the work y’all are doing,,I have a 81 long bed as well,,not a hiway queen,,but she will get you there
- Thread starter
- #31
Nothing wrong with that.
- Thread starter
- #32
How is anyone bolting an aftermarket bumper to the front of one of these critters? Looks like the 84 and newer have a flat plate multi-bolt setup the '83 and older don't have much provisions. Weld up a reinforcement and go from there? Sorry, I downloaded pictures a while ago and can't give credit to their owners.
- Thread starter
- #33
Ok, Life is still in the way, but this things needs some attention. Pulled the legal pad out and filled one complete column and started a heavy second one. Mostly just installing stuff and cleaning up wiring. Or at least that's my story.
Radiator needs replaced and maybe a hose or two, but overall getting street worthy pretty quick.
Bumper was a DIY from a kit for a Cherokee. I guess that explains why it doesn't just bolt up!
Radiator needs replaced and maybe a hose or two, but overall getting street worthy pretty quick.
Bumper was a DIY from a kit for a Cherokee. I guess that explains why it doesn't just bolt up!
ntsqd
technerd
Don't know if you're still noodling on the GM alternator or not. I used a CS130, I think, on Patch. Had to build both brackets to make it fit more or less like stock. I cut the connector off of a dead regulator to make the jumper that goes from the OEM wiring to the GM alternator. Plug and play, and more importantly to me, reversible should that ever be desired. I mostly went GM because I could not find a quality regulator that would last more than a year.
The 22R alt. bracket on my '84 was a complex critter that used some of the engine mount bolts. It took a bit of reverse engineering to make it all bolt on like stock, and to capture the alternator like stock GM brackets do.
On my '84 the only v-belt w/o a tensioning bolt was the alternator. Of course it was the hardest to adjust, and not just because of the lack of the tensioning bolt. So I added that feature while I was working on the whole system. This is incomplete, but the only picture that I have of it.
On steering, I went cross-over without going hi-steer. Going high-steer with off the shelf parts forces a lot of lift and/or reduces up travel. I left the tie-rod in the stock location and built the steering arm. I won't lie, it took several iterations to get exactly the right height for the drag-link on the arm that I built. You can keep the drag-link out of the oil pan with stock bump-stops while also not touching the leaf spring at full droop or fully crossed-up when using the strongly suggested OME std. front springs (pair them with some Bils 5100's for a leaf spring ride that is really hard to beat). I used Marlink tie-rod and drag-link bits for this.
if he's going to lift it I strongly suggest the OME std front springs combined with a pair of 5100 Bilsteins.
The 22R alt. bracket on my '84 was a complex critter that used some of the engine mount bolts. It took a bit of reverse engineering to make it all bolt on like stock, and to capture the alternator like stock GM brackets do.
On my '84 the only v-belt w/o a tensioning bolt was the alternator. Of course it was the hardest to adjust, and not just because of the lack of the tensioning bolt. So I added that feature while I was working on the whole system. This is incomplete, but the only picture that I have of it.
On steering, I went cross-over without going hi-steer. Going high-steer with off the shelf parts forces a lot of lift and/or reduces up travel. I left the tie-rod in the stock location and built the steering arm. I won't lie, it took several iterations to get exactly the right height for the drag-link on the arm that I built. You can keep the drag-link out of the oil pan with stock bump-stops while also not touching the leaf spring at full droop or fully crossed-up when using the strongly suggested OME std. front springs (pair them with some Bils 5100's for a leaf spring ride that is really hard to beat). I used Marlink tie-rod and drag-link bits for this.
if he's going to lift it I strongly suggest the OME std front springs combined with a pair of 5100 Bilsteins.
- Thread starter
- #35
Thanks for the input.
I had enough other projects to fabricate so I just ordered this setup for the alternator:
www.summitracing.com
I had enough other projects to fabricate so I just ordered this setup for the alternator:
TOYOTA Trail Gear TGI-308845 Trail-Gear Alternator Upgrade Kits | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Trail-Gear Alternator Upgrade Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Alternators and Generators at Summit Racing.
ntsqd
technerd
Don't get me started on TG........
- Thread starter
- #37
It actually came from a different supplier, I guess I was just showing the bracketry more than anything.
Man....those 1st gen trucks are GOOD LOOKIN. Nice job.
- Thread starter
- #39
Mocking up the front bumper and the frame mount. It will go off for a little plasma treatment for a couple holes. Maybe someday I'll be cool enough to own my own plasma cutter. GM CS-130 alternator is bolted in and the wires run but not fully attached yet. Replacement headliner should go in next so the rear slider can be slid into place.
- Thread starter
- #40
Gaining slowly.
Bumper is almost done and ready to get coated.
Replacement headliner installed and back window put in.
Bumper is almost done and ready to get coated.
Replacement headliner installed and back window put in.
