1980 FJ40 2F… Dying Under Braking (1 Viewer)

[Pighead]

If I turn the dizzy to the right slowly, once the BB just starts to show in the bottom of the window the engine sputters and dies.

when you turn the dizzy body righty-tighty, you are retarding the timing. the spot where the BB disappears is about 17* BTDC. some engines like this much advance to run right, my engine likes about 25*. you should be able to get a good idle in that timing neighborhood with the idle speed screw.
is your dizzy missing the octane adjuster knob (under the clear plastic cover)?

 

[ASO544]

Can you adjust the idle RPM up so when you do get the BB to show it will stay running?

You say sputters and dies, as you're turning the distributor does the rpm drop to where it's too low than dies?

I never thought of that …… can try

 

[ASO544]

Here are my operating temp compression numbers ….

#1 - 142
#2 - 145
#3 - 140
#4 - 143
#5 - 143
#6 - 144

 

[Pighead]

Here are my operating temp compression numbers ….

#1 - 142
#2 - 145
#3 - 140
#4 - 143
#5 - 143
#6 - 144

Them's good numbers

 

[ASO544]

I found an exhaust leak and possibly an intake leak by #4. Just by the carb area. Got a Remflex 7009 ready to go in.

Can anyone advise the plug gap on the 80 year model ….

Now I do have these as well

 

[Pighead]

Can anyone advise the plug gap on the 80 year model ….

I like .040"

 

[ASO544]

Going to try and tackle the exhaust /intake gasket this weekend. Once off, I’ll also check the intake manifold to make sure of no other cracks or issues. Hoping that might cure my vacuum leak.

Any guidance on replacing the gasket and reassembly? I got all the nuts and bolts soaking in PB Blaster to ease removal. I’m looking for the torque specs and bolt/nut sequence as well.

Luckily I got a buddy who has a City Racer Fuji Carb he ran on his without issue while he had his OEM rebuilt. Atleast I can do a quick swap if I still have issues after the gasket install to remove the carb from being a contributing factor.

Finally… my temp gauge… definitely in the wrong place ….doesn’t seem to operate. I took a wire and grounded at the sensor and the guage moved to hot so the gauge itself seems operational. I bought a new sensor for a 1980 2F but not 100% sure where it goes. I thought near the back of the block but those plugs threads sure look bigger than the sensor threads. Seems I need to order a union to go along with the sensor to fit in that location.

 

[procomsignathid]

Id recommend you don’t swap carbs (at least not as an early step). Clean/rebuild the carb you’ve got before you do that… too many variables, easy to chase your tail. Change one thing at a time for max sanity

I just did a big writeup of some temp sensor t-shooting, see if it helps you out!

Water temp gauge t-shooting, advice needed

Hello all- I am t-shooting a high temp gauge after replacing my radiator. During that process, lots of things changed: New radiator New hoses New temp sender (used the one from City Racer, I also used teflon tape which I now know is a no-no) Added a thermostat (was none there before)...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[dmaddox]

More advice from the interwebs. Don't replace your manifold gaskets if you don't have a leak. Yes, you'd have the opportunity to free-up hardware and replace studs/nuts with sparkly new hardware, but if you have it idling and spray brake cleaner along the mating surfaces (on top and below) and you don't hear any change in rpm while it is idling, there is a very, very high chance your manifolds are not leaking. 1. It is a hassle and 2. Ensuring you seal it up again (i used the thicker $OR version (remflex)) is not just a remove and reinstall. You have to clean, verify mating surfaces, etc..

That being said, I still HIGHLY recommend spritzing around the base of the carb, manifolds, hoses, connections, etc.. for vacuum leaks first. A six dollar can of brake cleaner may save you a weekend and a hundred bucks in gaskets and hardware. With the vacuum situation fixed, you can tackle your timing.

 

[charliemeyer007]

When I put on any gasket with fiber, I soak it in warm water for like 1/2 an hour - it softens it up so the high spots can dig in easily. I torque it in sequence by thirds. Then fire it up and get it warm and torque again at 100%. After a few heat cycles do it again at 100%

Pays to make sure the surfaces are as flat and clean as you can get them. Sometimes sealants like Aviation Permatex are useful.

 

[ASO544]

I do have a substantial exhaust leak around the 4-5 cylinder. You can feel it when idling and you put your hand over that area. When I sprayed that area with carb cleaner I also got an rpm increase. Not huge increase but a increase

 

[charliemeyer007]

A leak in the intake will make it run lean. Running lean burns things up. #5 is where the leaking brake booster will cause damage.

 

[peesalot]

If you remove the manifolds a good straight edge will tell the story, proper hardware and tightening helps as well. Pig is a good source, follow his lead.

 

[charliemeyer007]

I planed my header and intake manifold on a big piece of glass with sandpaper to get it flat. I made longer studs and custom stepped washers to apply equal torque to the different thickness and used 2 Manny header gaskets put on wet. Stainless steel nuts with anti high heat seize compound. These have been used 3 times on 2 different engines and have never leaked.

 

[ASO544]

I’m going to try and get the gaskets in this weekend …. Any advice is welcomed !!!

Are these Remflex gaskets the material you recommend soaking prior to installing? Also… what torque specs are people using to the best success ?

 

[charliemeyer007]

Never used Remflex, some gasket construction doesn't respond to soaking. I do the torque sequence in 1/3. After I fire it up and cool it back off I do it again at 100%. After several heat cycles I do it again at 100% F 28#' 2F 33#'

 

[Augustiron]

Remflex gaskets do not get soaked.
There is instructions for torque on the packaging

 

[ASO544]

Thanks !!!!

 

[ASO544]

Got it all off… not terrible to do… the intakes are not warped. Which is great. I’m ready to re-install but I ordered some new intake bolts , heat insulator plate , and gonna reseal my egr block plates while I’m at it.

 

[ASO544]

Got all my parts in… hope to start back on it this week if I can get the time set aside !!! Been also ordering small items and odds and ends to tidy up some minor unfinished things.

Hopefully once this is done and I get her running right…. I can address the oil cooler to see if it’s serviceable and get it plumbed. Then pressure test the front heater core and get it plumbed in as well.