1980 4wd, l43 swap to g52

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caladin

Noob, but trying to learn
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So I'm trying to resurrect a 1980 4wd pickup, I'm a full on 1 banana mechanic, but trying to learn

old trannys was pretty unhealthy

I have a 84 4wd parts truck, pulled the 5g3 and t-case out of it.

Bolting up the g52, bolt pattern was the same, but had to get a bunch of odd bolts to make it fit, (some boith sides were unthreaded etc), I _THINK_ I have that part figured out.

My understanding is that the g52 is 4.15" longer

I have the trans cross members and drive shafts from both trucks.

Will either cross member bolt right up, or will i need to cut an weld and bodge/jerry rig something together?

I remember reading about an aftermarket dual/single t-case cross member that works, and leaves you open to swap later, but i can't find it, does anyone remember what it was?
(t-case out of 80 is still good, so might case swap it and throw it on someday)

My current plan on the drive shafts is to use the 84 driveshafts, and swap the 80 u-joint ends to fit the 3rd members, is there a better way?

One unrelated question, there is a swap to a double brake master from a later truck that's really easy, but again, i can't find the
info again. Does anyone remember what master that is?


Thanks everyone!

Cal
 
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For everyone amusement, pics of not good tranny, it also blew a hole in the floorboard of the truck, folding over top the gas pedal, about the size of 2 fists
Cal-

l43TookADump.jpg


l43TookADump2.jpg
 
My first reaction is the transmission didn't fail. The clutch did. Lots of reasons for this, but a big reason is going down hill, transfer in low, transmission in a low gear, and the clutch pushed in. In that case, because of the gear reduction, the clutch over spins and grenades. I would not be surprised if the tranny was OK.

I would hang onto that transfer case. It would be useful in a future double project.

As far as the driveshafts. I would not move the u-joint flanges around. I would swap output flanges between the transfer cases. You would just need new nuts … in theory, because they are staked. The only place where you would need to move flanges is at the diff end, but that is a simple slip joint swap.
 
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Master/booster from an 80 series should work.

As for being a 'one banana' mech, we all were at some point. Read and research and read some more and that second banana will show up on your doorstep from the big brown truck.
 
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