1979 8274 rebuild

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Joined
Jun 1, 2014
Threads
2
Messages
13
Location
Central Arkansas
I'm new here and looking to rebuild my 8274. I know this is a toyota forum but all the good info i could find on this winch came from here!!! my 8274 is mounted to my M151A1 made by Ford in 1965. here is where i am at so far and already comming up with a parts list i'll need. I wanted to start this thread becasue i know i'll run into a few bumps along the way. any tips or must do's on this winch? thanks again and this is a great forum.
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well i took the motor off tonight and had a heck of a time with it. the rust on the motor shaft was worse than i thought. i ended up having to sand the end of the shaft a little and drive the motor out of the clutch gear. then drive the motor out of the bearing with a brass punch. here is what the inside of the motor looks like. whats the best way to clean this up? thanks!

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well i got everything out now except the needle bearing. when i tried taking it out i accidently knocked the end cup of the bearing. I need help with any ideas on how to get the race out now?????????? i tried tapping on the edges but couldn't get it to budge????
 
managed to get the bearing housing out. i ended up using a 3/4" socket and it fit just right to drive it out. now to get a new bearing tomorrow and start the clean up! also i had problems getting the brake off and ended up being able to soak it in penatrating oil and tap all around the shaft with a brass hammer. then i tapped both keys with a punch until i knew they were free. last just tapped on the end of the shaft with a small brass hammer and let the spring tension push it appart. might work for someone without a gear puller.
 
Good luck on your 8274 rebuild. I did the same thing on my 1978-build 8274. I'm sure you've seen the the great thread here by Flintknapper? That what I used to re-build mine.

The best upgrades I've done to mine were a new 6hp motor from a Warn 9.5XP winch, replaced the solenoid pack with a single Albright contactor, and replaced the wire rope with synthetic line. There are photos of all the above in threads right here in the winch sub-forum.
 
yea i've looked all through his thread and many many more and have found a lot of good info. as of now i want to keep steel cable. we sell it at work and for $20 i can replace all 150ft. i just caint justify the prices for synthetic. i've looked the albright contactor and as soon as one of my solonids goes out i will probally change to that. I've got my parts ordered now so hopefully i can get it all painted up now.
 
here is where i'm at now. My remote wouldn't ohm for "out so i popped it open and changed the switch and went ahead and changed the cord to a 15ft of 18ga wire. i cleaned all parts in degreaser and scrubbed them up good then took a die grinder and cleaned up the rest. now i'm priming all the parts. i'm going to use the rustolium silver matalic for most parts and black for the motor. any thoughts on gloss or matte black for the motor? thanks

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well i've got 2 coats of primer on now so i'll wait a few days to start painting. What i'm needing help with now is on sealing the motor. i have searched and have not found much. I have seen some info that says using silicon on the motor is bad and will eat brushes. what is recomened on sealing the motor? any help is appreciated. Thanks!!!
 
well i got the winch all put back together. I'll post pictures shortly. I having a new problem now it will power out but not in. i checked the wiring and it seems to be correct. one thing i did notice as that i get 0 ohms when i touch the "s" terminals of the power in and power out with my meter. i took the remote off and checked it and it ohms as it is supposed to. is that a sign of a failed or shorted solonoid? any thoughts?
 
Sounds like a bad solenoid.
 
i wired my new solenoids up and was checking with a multi meter before I actually apply power. if I put 1 lead on a ground small lug and the other lead on either the in or out small lug, when I press the switch either way it ohms at 0. is this correct?
 

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