Spent a bit of time day dreaming on the floor under the FJ40 today. Hard to get up so I hung out there a bit.
While looking around at some recent work I found a small issue with the motor mount. The castle nut can easily turn within the limits of the cotter pin and the round rubber donut can easily spin on its mounting pin AND can slide up the pin about 1/16” . Almost like a 5/16 washer on a 1/4 “ bolt.
I studied this post by @Living in the Past and it seems pretty straightforward. All my other motor mounts were solid to the frame on old bikes so I have never done a “car” engine. I have an engine hoist, cinder blocks ( concrete masonry units) and 2x10 scraps and a local Toyota dealer….should I just make the appointment? OR …..What other things can go wrong I may not be understanding.
posted over 10 years ago: @Living in the Past
I would just loosen the bolts on the back motor mounts. Remove the nuts off the bottom off the front two motor mounts.. Loosen the bolts on the top. Then slowly lift the engine with a floor jack under the oil pan and continue to loosen the bolts. Once there are out raise it enough to pull the old round one out. At this point I would use 8X8X16 cinder blocks with a block wood on top to support the engine while replacing. Some would use jack stands but prefer a wider base. Make sure the wheels are blocked so it can't roll. You could just loosen one side and change the other just be sure the rear is loosen enough for the engine lift up on that side without putting it in a bind.
I never trust a floor jack or engine hoist to hold something in place while working on it. I would not remove the metal mounts off the engine. If something goes wrong it can fall a lot further.
PS: you will probably need to loosen the fan shroud and check for other things that might prevent it from lifting.
While looking around at some recent work I found a small issue with the motor mount. The castle nut can easily turn within the limits of the cotter pin and the round rubber donut can easily spin on its mounting pin AND can slide up the pin about 1/16” . Almost like a 5/16 washer on a 1/4 “ bolt.
I studied this post by @Living in the Past and it seems pretty straightforward. All my other motor mounts were solid to the frame on old bikes so I have never done a “car” engine. I have an engine hoist, cinder blocks ( concrete masonry units) and 2x10 scraps and a local Toyota dealer….should I just make the appointment? OR …..What other things can go wrong I may not be understanding.
posted over 10 years ago: @Living in the Past
I would just loosen the bolts on the back motor mounts. Remove the nuts off the bottom off the front two motor mounts.. Loosen the bolts on the top. Then slowly lift the engine with a floor jack under the oil pan and continue to loosen the bolts. Once there are out raise it enough to pull the old round one out. At this point I would use 8X8X16 cinder blocks with a block wood on top to support the engine while replacing. Some would use jack stands but prefer a wider base. Make sure the wheels are blocked so it can't roll. You could just loosen one side and change the other just be sure the rear is loosen enough for the engine lift up on that side without putting it in a bind.
I never trust a floor jack or engine hoist to hold something in place while working on it. I would not remove the metal mounts off the engine. If something goes wrong it can fall a lot further.
PS: you will probably need to loosen the fan shroud and check for other things that might prevent it from lifting.
