1972 fj40 build thread

[Nillaraifer]

Hey guys thought id start a build thread for my 72 fj40. It's my dd and I'm still in school so slowly but surely I'm adding to it. I'm not planning on ever selling it so I figure by the time I die it will be one sick cruiser.

So far it's got a chevy 350
3speed
33's
And I recently installed manafre's disk brake conversion in the front. The back is still drum brakes.

 

[Nillaraifer]

First off the manafre disk brake conversion works great. I decided to go with the 6 piston willwoods. They stop waaaaaay better than the original drums. Only complaint is I ordered them right before they closed for a few months and they sent the wrong rotors. I got ahold of them and they had dba send me another set of rotors which were the wrong ones again. Once they figured out they sent the wrong ones they contacted me before I even had contacted them about it. In the end I got the right rotors and I felt manafre was very helpful in trying there best to fix the problem.

Also if you get this conversion you will probaly have to adjust your steering radius to fit the smaller brake lines.

 

[Nillaraifer]

 

[Nillaraifer]

It's been awhile since I've added anything to this but I've got some free time so I figured I would update my build thread. Quite A bit has happened since my last post so I'll probably just update with the main parts.

In 2018 I blew a headgasket on the sbc that was in the cruiser. Luckily it was no longer my dd at this point as I had gotten something more reliable to drive since I was out of state in college. However working and going to school out of state made it hard to work on it at all. Over break I had some time to push it into the garage and pull the old drivetrain out. I then got busy with work and school and it got pushed into the yard where it sat with a tarp over it for the next few years.

Here are some pics of when I got then engine out before it got put aside for a while.

 

[Nillaraifer]

I spent the next few years planning and buying parts when I could. Unfortunately I change my mind on what exactly I want to do occasionally. Originally I was just going to get another sbc and swap in a sm420, which I ended up getting a whole drivetrain of a sbc, sm420 and 3 spd tcase. Then I decided if I was going to go through all the hassle of an engine swap I might as well use a newer style engine for multiple reasons. So I sold the sbc with the plans to get a gen 3 ls style engine.

Over the last few years of being away and the cruiser just sitting I have ordered a few parts to to start stock piling till the day I actually had the time to go back to California and make some progress. I graduated college a couple years ago now and I finally found some time to make it back and get some more work done.

First up was clearing some of the old parts I knew I wasn't going to be using out of my dads garage so I had room to put it back in the garage as-well as make some cash to go towards the new parts.

Here it is getting moved back into the garage after probably 3 years.

 

[Nillaraifer]

Next I got started on building the metaltech jacksons roll cage kit.

 

[Nillaraifer]

Also got the motor mounts cut out. I figured I could find motor mounts that adapt the old sbc frame mount location to the new ls style engine mount location but I was not a fan of the way a PO did the original sbc swap, so I would rather start fresh.

I am now pretty much caught up on here as I am still working on the cage and currently getting the metaltech seat cradle cut and tacked in. I did set one of the new prp bucket seats that I've had sitting in a box for a while in the cruiser to get an idea of how it would look today though.

 

[Nillaraifer]

So getting close to finishing the cage. I basically have it all together just waiting on seat mount tabs to get here so I can get those tacked in then pull it out to fully weld.
I finally got the new engine ordered. It is a gen 3 5.3l lm7 that I should be picking up around end of January. I do have a question about mating it to the sm420 I have.
So I have a sm420 with a bell housing for a older sbc 350. I am trying to get all the parts together so that by the time I have the engine I can put it all together. From what I have read the bell housing for a sbc should work and only one bolt wont line up. If this is the case do I use a throw-out bearing and fly wheel from a ls or something different. The other thing is I see kits from other company's like the advanced adapters and cruiser corps that have a ls to gm 4spd clutch and flywheel kit because of the shallow crank difference. Is this necessary or beneficial to use compared to parting together stock parts to work.
And the other is I have seen kits like the quick draw bell housing for this type of swap that advertise they use factory ls parts for fly wheels and clutches. Is this beneficial to use compared to the sbc bell housing.
I don't want to spend a ton of money buying unnecessary parts but I also don't plan on selling this vehicle so I will spend the money to do it right the first time so it works well. I have already searched this and read a lot about it I think I have the part numbers that I would need for my current bell housing but I want to make sure these other kits wouldn't be a better option and less of a pain down the line. I also want to make sure I get the correct parts as this is my first project of this caliber.

 

[Downey]

Cripes, I hope you are a short dude, you've got all 4 of those front cage connecter bars very close to your head (when being thrown from side to side in off road terrain, when wheeling). The outer bars should have been angled out into the radius of the rear bar, and I'm not convinced anyone needs the 2 center connecter bars, unless they just like adding weight to the vehicle- - -just saying.

 

[h82crash]

Use the bellhousing you already have. I found an affordable flywheel. It is a billet steel unit from Speedmaster. It fits the LS (Metric) and is drilled to use the early Chevy clutch (SAE) and the friction surface is the correct diameter to fit the early Chevy clutch disks. Not sure what the SM420 input pilot shaft size is, but if it is the standard .590" the bearing below will work. Or you can do what some others do and use the smaller bearing, but only insert it half way to reach the pilot shaft. It works but I don't recommend it when the other bearing is the proper one.

Some may criticize Speedmaster products, but this FW is SFI certified.

Flywheel: Speedmaster 1-229-015 168 Tooth Billet Flywheel, Chevy LS - https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedmaster-1-229-015-168-Tooth-Billet-Flywheel-Chevy-LS,323441.html
Clutch: LUK 04-049
Pilot bearing: GM Amazon product ASIN B000C9Q1AM
EDIT: I just realized the clutch you have might work if it is still good. If it does not have the raised diaphragm, however, your throwout bearing may have trouble reaching it well enough.

 

[EWheeler]

Cripes, I hope you are a short dude, you've got all 4 of those front cage connecter bars very close to your head (when being thrown from side to side in off road terrain, when wheeling). The outer bars should have been angled out into the radius of the rear bar, and I'm not convinced anyone needs the 2 center connecter bars, unless they just like adding weight to the vehicle- - -just saying.

Are you just a part of MUD to criticize others and plug your ebay store? Because thats about all i ever read from you on this site. I understand youve forgot more than many could ever dream to learn about our beloved landcruisers. Im probably half your age so this will come across as disrespectful because youre my elder, but we’re all here to learn and share knowledge and i dont ever see you sharing the VAST amounts of actual tech or knowledge in your brain, just throwing shade — just sayin.

See the post right below yours, thats what were here for.

 

[h82crash]

Are you just a part of MUD to criticize others and plug your ebay store? Because thats about all i ever read from you on this site. I understand youve forgot more than many could ever dream to learn about our beloved landcruisers. Im probably half your age so this will come across as disrespectful because youre my elder, but we’re all here to learn and share knowledge and i dont ever see you sharing the VAST amounts of actual tech or knowledge in your brain, just throwing shade — just sayin.

See the post right below yours, thats what were here for.

While I felt a similar rub, I refrained from commenting. I think what many forget is that there are many ways to do things. There are also better ways to suggest better ways.

 

[Nillaraifer]

Cripes, I hope you are a short dude, you've got all 4 of those front cage connecter bars very close to your head (when being thrown from side to side in off road terrain, when wheeling). The outer bars should have been angled out into the radius of the rear bar, and I'm not convinced anyone needs the 2 center connecter bars, unless they just like adding weight to the vehicle- - -just saying.

Nah luckily I can measure so my head has plenty of room at 6 ft and it's not like it's a Miata so I am not real concerned with a few extra pounds for extra protection, thanks for the concern though.

 

[Nillaraifer]

Use the bellhousing you already have. I found an affordable flywheel. It is a billet steel unit from Speedmaster. It fits the LS (Metric) and is drilled to use the early Chevy clutch (SAE) and the friction surface is the correct diameter to fit the early Chevy clutch disks. Not sure what the SM420 input pilot shaft size is, but if it is the standard .590" the bearing below will work. Or you can do what some others do and use the smaller bearing, but only insert it half way to reach the pilot shaft. It works but I don't recommend it when the other bearing is the proper one.

Some may criticize Speedmaster products, but this FW is SFI certified.

Flywheel: Speedmaster 1-229-015 168 Tooth Billet Flywheel, Chevy LS - https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedmaster-1-229-015-168-Tooth-Billet-Flywheel-Chevy-LS,323441.html
Clutch: LUK 04-049
Pilot bearing: GM Amazon product ASIN B000C9Q1AM
EDIT: I just realized the clutch you have might work if it is still good. If it does not have the raised diaphragm, however, your throwout bearing may have trouble reaching it well enough.

Thanks for the part number, I appreciate the help and support.
Thanks EWheeler aswell.

 

[DEADSALT]

nice that you bought a ‘FJ’

be wary of kicking the shins of those before you

if you’re sensitive
keep your mouth shut

 

[Downey]

After I closed Downey Off Road Mfg. in 2009 (became semi-retired) I thought I could remain relevant by offering constructive/educational drops of wisdom to the Mud community, never did I think my comments would be taken as a rub, or throwing shade. Evidently we now live in a different world, so I officially apologize for any hurt feelings, and will refrain from any future comments on peoples rigs/mods.

Regarding my ebay store:
(a) When I have exactly what a guy is looking for, or the item that solves their problem, I will reference it, that practice probably won't change.
(b) When I have a weird or unique "gee whiz" ebay item that can be referenced just for giggles, for everyone's enjoyment, I've referenced it. If it helps, I will refrain from that practice.

 

[centerlineseal]

will refrain from any future comments on peoples rigs/mods.

Don't do that, ...we need you to remain a 'Mudder!

 

[h82crash]

I officially apologize for any hurt feelings, and will refrain from any future comments on peoples rigs/mods.

I don't know if feelings were hurt, mine weren't. It just seemed to me it had a tone of mocking for a, perhaps, less than ideal design. While some are deserving of such types of criticism, I think the OP is just getting started and should be encouraged, but redirected, if necessary. Ebay plugs? If relevant, which is what I've seen, keep on truckin'.

At any rate, I think you should still provide constructive advice and jocularity, but let's get this thread back on topic.

 

[Nillaraifer]

No hurt feelings here. The picture did make the bars look a lot closer than they are. I got the seats in so I could confirm my measurements were right and everything clears fine.

Unfortunately the thing with text is whoever is reading it is left to interpret the tone without the normal cues of face to face conversation which can lead to the occasional misinterpretation as it seems we have now found. But now that any misunderstandings are hopefully cleared up and no feelings were hurt I will get back to our regularly scheduled programming with more pictures.

 

[Nillaraifer]

Been busy with work but I've been chipping away at getting things done. Just got a new job in another state so now the plan is to hopefully get the drivetrain in by the end of the month so I can have it in one peice to push on a trailer and move. Waiting on the correct index ring for the bellhousing to get here so I figured I'd update this with some of the progress.

Here's the cage back in after final welding and painting with the seats.

And here's the gas tank with the new aeromotive pump installed.