1953 Dodge M37 wheeler conversion (4 Viewers)

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workingdog

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So, I'm starting a build thread for my M37. The last thread was contemplation and planning and it seemed to make sense to start a fresh thread.

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The plan is ... 6.2l LS3 from Chevy Performance. Which is here. Tremec 4050, which will be here soon. Atlas 4, which will be here in 16 weeks or so, Dana Pro 60 up front, which was half off and is here. And 14 bolt that WFO is building for me which will be here in a couple of weeks. So, in 2 weeks, I'll have enough of the drivetrain to start looking at engine and transmission placement and axles to start looking at axle and suspension. I had been looking at keeping it leaf springs, but looking at the age of all the hangers, I've decided that it will be the same amount of work to go head an 4 link the rear and 3 link the front. We are going to full hydro this rig, so maybe we can 4 link the front? We'll see what the packing looks like. the frame is very much like an fj40. It's very narrow up front. I'm assuming it will have similar trade offs.

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The first task was to get the bed loose. Which it is. Once I can get the bed outside, I'm going to have someone come and sandblast the inside and I'll bedliner the inside, leaving the outside the same. Every single bolt had to be cut off the top.

Actually the very first step was to get the massive Barden winch off. I found a guy. The idea is to rebuild it and convert it to hydraulic. It's possible, it's been done. The rig just doesn't look right without. So, planning on running it off the PSC pump that's going on.

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Next step is to take the entire front clip off in preparation to remove the drive train and all the crazy electrical stuff.

Amazingly, I got connected with a guy out by Lake Berryessa who restores 40's and 50's power wagons most, but some of these also, for a living. He's going to rebuild and convert the winch for me, but also, in 2020 his shop was burned to the ground with about 40 power wagons in various states of restoration. One of the ones he lost was for a Vietnam vet. He's coming to come over and help me tear it down in exchange for getting the drivetrain and axles to build a new rig for this vet. So, I'm very happy to make that trade and get access to his knowledge and expedience.

So, still need to buy - PSC hydro pump, alternator, PSC steering ram (thinking 2.5 or 2.75" X 8").
 
So, it begins

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The front clip is off because I found the guy in the next county who restores M37 and old power wagons and he wants the entire drivetrain for a charity build he's doing for a Vietnam war veteran. So, he and his son are coming tomorrow and are going to spend the day taking the entire drive train out, down to the axles, and take it with them.

I'll end up with body and frame. Tremec transmission arrived and there's a 14 bolt waiting for me in Auburn when I have time to get it.
 
Peter, looks like another fun build. I want to run a tremec 4050 in my 45, but my atlas is 32 spline.I understand the tremec is 23 spline. Wonder if I can swap my 32 for a 23 input gear?
 
Yes, I'm sure you can - just call AA and they can send you the right shaft. Only pain is you have to tear it down to swap it.
 
Okay, so, this guy Fowler out of Napa county near Lake Berryessa who restores old 40's power wagons for a living showed up with his son and over 2 half days they ripped out the drive train and the axles and left me in good shape. Also - 40'S SHOWED UP!!!

Sandblaster is coming next week, so I've got to get the frame fully stripped, which means breaking a lot of rivets free - and not the cheap ass rivets on an 80's truck, but real rivets - and the cab off.


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That’s when the rivets were made outta real steel. Great start I look forward to see more…
 
Oxy torch with a scarfing tip makes pretty quick work of rivet heads and just needs a quick touch with a flap wheel to clean off.
 
Okay, the cab is off the bed, the frame is stripped, and bed and frame and a few other parts have been sandblasted.

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70 years of grease and old paint removed.

I hopped right on it and put 2k primer on everything - it's Raptor primer so the bed is ready for raptor bedliner

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So, I just got some advice from a guy I trust a lot, who does a lot of builds, to not go full hydro on this rig, as it would be too squirrelly/sketchy to drive on the road much, like going back around from Tahoe side staging on the Rubicon back to Loon Lake.

Anyone else got an INFORMED opinion?
 
I wouldn't call it squirrely unless the link and steering geometry is wonky giving a lot of body roll or bump steer. Sketchy, maybe. If you lose your pump, you lose steering. Not the best going 60+.
 
You don't loose steering totally if you lose pressure, apparently the newer orbitals will let you steer and will return. But, that's only if there's still fluid. If you blow a line, then there's no connection between the orbital and the ram.
 
So, I just got some advice from a guy I trust a lot, who does a lot of builds, to not go full hydro on this rig, as it would be too squirrelly/sketchy to drive on the road much, like going back around from Tahoe side staging on the Rubicon back to Loon Lake.

Anyone else got an INFORMED opinion?
They can float on you while driving, you may have to turn one way or the other to go straight. No way I would make a street driven truck full hydro. I have a manual box and a double ended cylinder on my race car. If I burn the bump or loose a line, I still have a mechanical steering system and Yes I have had to do that to get back to the pits.
 
How does that work? You have a drag link and the double ended ram acts as the tie rod??
 
Thanks for that link, very educational.

I got POR 15 on the frame, and had to figure out a fixture to lift the cab up. I did not expect that to be quite so complicated. But, now I can lower the cab to check fitment as things progress.


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the frame is back under the cab. I put the cab up backwards, so I had to put it down, spin it and put it back up. I have the frame set level and roughly at ride height.

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However, I'm trying to figure out what ride height was.

In the back, it was 17.5" now it's about 26"

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But, with the frame 'level'. the front was 22.5", but now it's almost 31" over 8" higher than it was.
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The center was at 18", now it's at 22", 4" higher than it was

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So, it was massively sloped forward.

So, the question is, do I need to continue that???

In my limited experience, I like the bottom of the frame in the middle about 20" clear. So, I'd come down 2" from where I am right now. the front is still way in the air. Right now, I can't think what problems that would cause. In fact, I think it would make sticking the panhard bar easier, but the angle woudl be severe (or require tall brackets) and I'm going to need a big drop in the pitman arm.

Speaking of steering. These guys make a power steering conversion kit for the M37. Now, I don't need most of what they offer, it's just a normal Saginaw box and the rest I can source better, but the bracket looks like it could be useful. It mounts the steering box more fj80 style. I've never done that before, just done the reverse Saginaw fj40 style. So, I'm not sure how the pitman arm/drag link works out.


For all I know, there are other brackets out there I should be looking at.

Also, I need to find a column that will mate to my steering wheel. I'm guessing it's probably going to end up being something like a tractor column in the end. I need to count splines.
 

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