has anyone run thicker oil like Delvac 1300 or supertech 15w40? Or even 5w40?
15w40 in 3urfe (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter weaponoffreedom
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Update: 5W-30 & Heavier Recommended RoTW
Update: confirmed that the 3UR is recommended to run a whole suite of heavier oils. Screenshots from UAE 200 5.7L manual below. More proof that environmental regulatory agencies have handcuffed Toyota in the states. I spent the better part of yesterday’s afternoon researching oil viscosities...
forum.ih8mud.com
This Amsoil info is also pretty good. Obviously not tailored to the 3UR-FE design and lubrication system.
Personally I have switched from 0W20 to 5W30 since a) this is what I believe the engine was designed for since initial 200 series model years used this from factory (EPA and EU fuel consumption targets drove Toyota to use 0W20) and b) a bit more oil pressure has been noted by various folk on this forum which IMO is good including for the timing chain tensioner.
I am also changing every 5k miles to keep the engine and parts therein cleaner. Perhaps it is not needed with good oil, but I am DIY at this point so it does not cost much.
Now the next step up from that could be 10W30 or 10W40 or even 15W40 oil. I guess at some point cold start wear starts to increase, however in southern parts of the US which never get really cold, that maybe perfectly fine.
Overall I am happy with 5W30 using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum which for now sells at a good price at Walmart and probably several other places. I personally would not use Supertech, however that maybe perfectly fine. Also consider oil change interval.
blog.amsoil.com
Personally I have switched from 0W20 to 5W30 since a) this is what I believe the engine was designed for since initial 200 series model years used this from factory (EPA and EU fuel consumption targets drove Toyota to use 0W20) and b) a bit more oil pressure has been noted by various folk on this forum which IMO is good including for the timing chain tensioner.
I am also changing every 5k miles to keep the engine and parts therein cleaner. Perhaps it is not needed with good oil, but I am DIY at this point so it does not cost much.
Now the next step up from that could be 10W30 or 10W40 or even 15W40 oil. I guess at some point cold start wear starts to increase, however in southern parts of the US which never get really cold, that maybe perfectly fine.
Overall I am happy with 5W30 using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum which for now sells at a good price at Walmart and probably several other places. I personally would not use Supertech, however that maybe perfectly fine. Also consider oil change interval.
Understanding Oil Viscosity - AMSOIL Blog
Viscosity is the measure of a fluid's resistance to flow. How quickly or slowly motor oil flows affects how well it protects your engine.
blog.amsoil.com
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- Thread starter
- #4
yeah, seen that, thanks.
Update: 5W-30 & Heavier Recommended RoTW
Update: confirmed that the 3UR is recommended to run a whole suite of heavier oils. Screenshots from UAE 200 5.7L manual below. More proof that environmental regulatory agencies have handcuffed Toyota in the states. I spent the better part of yesterday’s afternoon researching oil viscosities...
pretty diluted thread.
Just wondering if anyone has used 15w40. All things being equal, thicker viscosity = less wear.
Less wear typically = less heat, not necessarily less friction.
Heat is what kills timing chains.
I am under the opinion that 5w30 \ 10w30 would suffice for both cold and hot areas, mostly in the USA where temps are greatly different in the seasons, as we have 4 typically.
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I used some Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0W-40 I had laying around the garage my last oil change. It worked fine. I switched back to 5W-30 since that was what I had and it’s winter.
I’d be more inclined to run 10W-30 than 15w-40.
I’d be more inclined to run 10W-30 than 15w-40.
I run 5-30 in both our UR's ('16 LC and '11 Tundra) because of the other thread. Never have noticed a difference vs 0-20 but feels good to in theory have better protection.
15-40 seems like a huge jump. Random thought, does thicker viscosity stress the factory oil pump? Is there a diminishing return on increased oil pressure if factory oil passages are fixed in size?
15-40 seems like a huge jump. Random thought, does thicker viscosity stress the factory oil pump? Is there a diminishing return on increased oil pressure if factory oil passages are fixed in size?
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Eventually you open the bypass valve once you hit a certain oil pressure. Once that happens, volumetric flow will flat line and pressure will not increase any more. That will happen earlier with a thicker oil as it takes more pressure to move the same volume through the fixed passages as you mentioned.
Don't assume that 15w40 = less wear or even less heat. Blanket statements like that don't work in complex system.
It's been mentioned but cold startup wear is often more significant in modern engines, and where thicker oils generally are not going to be better.
Thicker oils also flow slower so even as it has marginally higher specific heat, it's not going to cycle and cool the overall engine better.
Flow can be just as important as lubricity.
I don't get why we're trying to re-engineer oils when the OEM has designed and validated with an abundance of data what works and works best.
Sure, small tweaks in viscosity for extreme use cases or extreme predominant regional temps.
IMO 15Ww40 is no where close to the best solution for this engine.
Because American 200 series owners are often bored, and want to overmaintain their 200 and overcomplicate their lives - since they are usually too rich and bored and having nothing substantial to worry about that are real problems in their life.
Where ROW 200 series owners are too busy going to work, fighting wars, surviving, and realizing that bare maintenance by the book will get their LC to last enough for a lifetime.
1st world western luxury - ... is an amazing thing to watch
Heritage 2020
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Agreed.
I hear you and know you do not run 0W20 yourself as per the factory manual per other posts.
As indicated, I opted for 5W30 which imo is good middle of the road. Next part is which make and additive packages, not going there here.
Around whether 15W40 is not good, I do wonder why Motorbikes run more viscous oils, so the oil flow paths is probably not the issue in our 3UR-FR. Now motorbikes are probably running this as a) they get thermally loaded higher so at operating conditions they need more to maintain oil film thickness and b) the trade off between cold start and operating conditions wear is in favor of the later.
All in all I would recommend going 5W30 or more expensive 0W30 or the 40 variant of either for lots of slow off roading at elevated temps. Maybe the OP should go 5W40 and satisfy his goal.
- Thread starter
- #14
of course, and 15w40 is clearly in the manual, which is why I asked if anyone here used it.
right, I do not run it either. 5w30 is the minimum I will go.
One of the main reasons I picked the LC200 was the 3ur really doesn’t care what you run. My last few cars were powered by hopped up early turbo DI engines and those were very finicky when it came to oil. And I literally ran two dozen different brands, viscosity, HTHS ratings, etc. I ran PUP, M1, RP, Amsoil, Pennrite, Kendall, Valvoline, Havoline, The 3ur on the other hand with PI doesn’t really care. I run Kirkland 0W-20 in the winter and 5W-30 in the summer. It’s made by Warren or whoever bought them out, same stuff as supertech and amazon basics and it works great.
For clarity, was referring to TeCkis300
bloc
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If you are looking for user experiences you might try including Tundra boards and the relevant section on BITOG. A whole lot more of those on the road than 200s, let alone owners being adventurous with oil choices.
I personally don't think it would do anything better than 0-20 or 5-30 in a 3UR.. and will do some things worse. Such that even if I had drums of the stuff I'd still go get 5-30, and keep the Delvac 1300 lying around for whatever equipment it was intended for.
I personally don't think it would do anything better than 0-20 or 5-30 in a 3UR.. and will do some things worse. Such that even if I had drums of the stuff I'd still go get 5-30, and keep the Delvac 1300 lying around for whatever equipment it was intended for.
preach on!
NO, I am however on my second fill up with 5w30. Other than I make a little more oil pressure on startup till warmup I have not noticed anything. When I say more oil pressure I am just referring to Toyota gauge in dash. I notice now at start up that line is above 1/2 way on any revs above 2750. However once warm goes back to what I refer to a normal. I put 5w30 in at 95K and again for 100K. Next change is 105K in about 4k more miles.
