15B into a BJ42. I'm doing it now! (1 Viewer)

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Belt changes look like a very simple procedure on that engine. It doesnt appear that the trimming would hurt anything. MIke
 
Very cool swap!

Can I ask what one can expect to pay for such an engine in Denmark?

(I'm from the netherlands, so nat that far away...)

Would be an interesting candidate for if my 3B ever blows up for some reason....
 
Would be an interesting candidate for if my 3B ever blows up for some reason....

Like too much boost?:cheers:

I like the 2KD in a hilux, here the best engine we got in that shape was the 1KZ-TE. A good engine but not in the same league as the commonrail motors.
 
Should you be concerned about the rotational balance of the pressure plate after selective grinding. I would like to have it balanced after wards if possible.

Pete
 
you are right, i have zero experience with the 15B (subscribed for a reason).
i do have decent experience with the 1HZ, 1PZ and the generic B, 2B, 3B and 13BT. i have found the 1HZ to have a smooth torque curve that "feels" good over a more broader range but the 3B+T is wicked and the 13BT has very quick throttle response, tons of snap but not my favorite for off roading. i think the 15B would be an engine i would be very interested in swapping into my FJ75.

"you can do your believing in church" ... love it, sig line material right there.

what vehicles did the 15B/15BT come equiped in industrial vehicles? i "might" be able to source a used one locally ...

Prior to conversion to the 1HZ, the Coaster buses in Latin America used the 15B. Sadly, they were all converted over before I came along.. BTW in terms of "this swap being done alot" if it has been it hasn´t been documented much. I looked very hard at this and spent over 6 months looking for the engine before going with the 1HZ. I can think of three guys, a guy in the Azores, a guy in Malaysia and Simon who have tried it. The 14 B is a different story, much more common swap at least one in Panama, lots in Malaysia. I found two, after I had the 1HZ shipped and installed but don´t regret the HZ, just would have been cheaper to go with the 14B. It is all about what is available in your market.
 
Ok. More updates. There is 3 more issues.

Issue.
1. The inlet manifold interfers with the brake booster. Well, not actually the booster, but the brake balancer. Its not a big problem- the brake balancer is a separate piece so its just a matter of making a new holder for the balancer. (im gonna buy a new adjustable balncer anyway)

2. The vacuum/power steering pump interfers with the frame. (in my case it also interfers with the steering rod, but thats because i have used a HJ60 powersteering setup). Anyway, im working on that issue, it is soon solved, but not quite yet.

3. The alternator belt "tightener" is to close to the fron axle. Well, its not really an issue, but with full flex it may touch the axle. Im not sure, but i think ill modify this part.


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15BF by dieseldragon, on Flickr

Frame touch

15BF by dieseldragon, on Flickr

Steering rod interference

15BF by dieseldragon, on Flickr

Brake booster interference (picture is without the full inlet, i had to take it of to get the engine in)

15BF by dieseldragon, on Flickr

Problem solved, full inlet is mounted. Removed brake balancer (havent relocated it yet, but thats no problem)

15BF by dieseldragon, on Flickr

A video
15BF in BJ42 - YouTube
 
Nice work! How exactly did you fix the frame touch issue? It looks like you ground some stuff off of something?

Also, I was wondering... In the 3B engine, they reduced the compression for the turbo version, (13BT). Did they do this for the 15BT vs. 15B?

Also, does your 15B have a rotary or inline pump... I couldn't tell.

Thanks!
 
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Nice work! How exactly did you fix the frame touch issue? It looks like you ground some stuff off of something?

Also, I was wondering... In the 3B engine, they reduced the compression for the turbo version, (13BT). Did they do this for the 15BT vs. 15B?

Also, does your 15B have a rotary or inline pump... I couldn't tell.

Thanks!

The reduction in compression ratio from 3B to 13BT isn't due to the turbo, it's due to the injection system.
Indirect injection needs a very high compression ratio to help cold starting. Most are around 22:1. Direct injection has no need to go higher than around 18:1 and serious boost can be pushed in with that compression ratio. Modern common rail direct injection engines are as low as 14:1, but mainly for noise and vibration reasons, it makes for a much quieter engine.
 
Thanks for the clarification Dougal!

So is my assumption that a turbo will affect a higher compression engine more effectively be accurate? My assumption is that since air at a certain PSI fills the same space with the same volume, a higher compression will create more heat and a more complete combustion (under tuned conditions) than in the same volume with lower compression.

Sorry for the hijack
 
Thanks for the clarification Dougal!

So is my assumption that a turbo will affect a higher compression engine more effectively be accurate? My assumption is that since air at a certain PSI fills the same space with the same volume, a higher compression will create more heat and a more complete combustion (under tuned conditions) than in the same volume with lower compression.

Sorry for the hijack

Yes indeed.
Opinions vary on boosting the IDI high compression diesels, my thoughts are keep it to single figures and you're pretty safe.
 
Hi!
Sorry for the late reply, but i guess you got your answer on the compression stuff.
You are right about the grinding for fitment to the frame. ill post a picture of more grinding.

Anyway, im near finished now. I made a return diesel line for the diesel. The main issue now is that i need a bigger release bearing on the clutch. I got the bearing, but i have to "lathe" an adapter to get the bigger bearing to fit. Ill do that during the christmas brake. I also have decided to balance the clutch (wich i grinded down).


15B-F by dieseldragon, on Flickr


15B-F by dieseldragon, on Flickr

I had to grind some in the behhousing due to the bigger clutch

15B-F by dieseldragon, on Flickr


15B-F by dieseldragon, on Flickr

I had to modify the oilpan, cut of the "wings" and relocate the draining plug. I TIG welded it and tested it for leaks.

Modified oil pan 15B to fit BJ42 by dieseldragon, on Flickr


Modified oil pan 15B to fit BJ42 by dieseldragon, on Flickr

I had to relocate the brake balancer. I put a adjustable balancer there as i was at it. I want less pressure on the rear brakes anyway.

IMG_2195 by dieseldragon, on Flickr
 
What was the interference with the wings? How much oil capacity did you lose with the change?

Looks great... Keep us updated as I SO want to do this swap!

K
 
The front drive shaft has to go through it :) So, it must be modified.
Im not sure how many litres less capacity i got now, but im not worried because now its pretty much identical to the 3 and 13B oilpan. But you only have to remove one of the "wings" (on the shaft side), but i wanted as little oilpan as possible at the bottom- because of offroading, and sharp rocks.

By the way, the 3/13B oil pan does not fit this engine, it has another bolt pattern and shape. It looks identical but, it aint. 14 and 15b has the same oil pan.
 
Is that a copper brake line I see in post #35 Havard (last pic)?

If so, there's a lot of advice around that copper should never be used in brake lines.

:beer:
 
Its a copper/nickel mix. i dont know what nickel % is, but we have been using it since thw WW2 so im not to worried about that :)
Its what we scandinavians commonly use for brake lines. We drive in snow, salt and summer conditions, ive never ever experience any problems with the brake lines.
 
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