150k sevice

[Kernal Sanders]

Searched for the 150k service and didn't find much info.

My 99' LC sits most of the time and is used for hunting and fishing, as it's a second car (have a company primary). I am losing the company primary and going to be driving the LC full time now. Browse a lot on the forum, but do not post much. Help appreciated on the below questions.

Taking the truck to Scott Clark toyota in Charlotte nc next week to do the following:

-trans fluid/service
-f/r diffs
-f/r brakes
-coolant flush
-fuel system clean, plus TB
-plugs
-adjust/lube propeller shaft
-oil and filter
-new cooper at3 tires.
-cabin filter

Maybe forgetting something? Timing belt was done at 120k.

Thoughts on what might be missing or preventive items that I might need to add. The dealership is a standard toyota shop. Truck usually gets 2k-3k miles per year. That number is going to be more like 15k now.

Truck is 15 years old. How much life can I expect on the truck with normal-consistent use, assuming all items/mechanics up to date?

Thanks for thoughts/ replies.

 

[2001LC]

After timing belt 90K & spark plugs 120K miles or 96 months, start maintenance schedule over as if mile 1 month 1.

If you have orignal brake fluid and it's still clear, keep it. Can't get factory installed fluid (great stuff) in U.S. due to EPA regs.

Transfer case, front wheel bearings each 30K miles, air filter, check PVC, I like M1 syn ATF for trany & power steering flush, total needed about 12qt. plus 1qt.

De-rust & paint underside, touch-up paint chips and recoat (rubberize) wheelwells as needed and keep eye on rubber hoses ect...

 

[Kernal Sanders]

Great advice. Thanks for helping out. I will definitely add the items that the dealer is not including. Especially brake fluid and the power steering flush.

 

[paflytyer]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/610334-diy-replacing-heater-hose-pipe-ts-important.html

 

[PADDO]

I would add heater T hose fittings too, if they are still original. Mine were ready to fail at 10yrs, 130k.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

 

[jemsec]

I would add heater T hose fittings too, if they are still original. Mine were ready to fail at 10yrs, 130k.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

Just read on another forum about someone that had the heater hose tee break. Overheated with serious damage.
Suggest a change of tees and the six short hoses. Plus the four on most rear heaters.

 

[Jordan345]

I may have posted the heater hose failure - no damage if you stop driving and pull over.. i was a few km from home, just kept the rpm below 1500 and walked it home, keeping heater on high to expel any built up heat in the engine bay.. fluid dumped everywhere and dropped the contents on teh freeway. luckily i had 2 heater hose t's sitting on my workbench. also had some super long life coolant.. 20 min and things back to normal, providing you can burp that beast properly. a bit of a mission.

 

[stonepa]

Question on wheel bearing repacking. Both dealers near me told me that they do not repack Land Cruisers front wheel bearings. The dealer back in Anchorage did, but for around $400 (4 hours labor). Is this really a maintenance item? If it is, why wouldn't they know that and jump at the chance to it?

 

[2001LC]

Question on wheel bearing repacking. Both dealers near me told me that they do not repack Land Cruisers front wheel bearings. The dealer back in Anchorage did, but for around $400 (4 hours labor). Is this really a maintenance item? If it is, why wouldn't they know that and jump at the chance to it?

My 2001 wheel bearings are most centainly repacked by me every 30K miles.

I use Amsoil CLB Extreme Pressure Heavy duty lithium #1 w/moly in axle roller bearing, AND GHD Heavy duty lithium #2 w/moly in wheel bearings. Note; if you do it yourself the FSM is wrong on torque spec, it needs to be torque to 12 ft-lbs or more.

 

[bluecruiser]

My 2001 wheel bearings are most centainly repacked by me every 30K miles. I use Amsoil CLB Extreme Pressure Heavy duty lithium #1 w/moly in axle roller bearing, AND GHD Heavy duty lithium #2 w/moly in wheel bearings. Note; if you do it yourself the FSM is wrong on torque spec, it needs to be torque to 12 ft-lbs or more.

30k miles per repack? Do you constantly drive through swamps?

 

[bamachem]

Yeah 30k is very quick. Most people do it at the same time as the 90k TB, if at all.

 

[2001LC]

30k miles per repack? Do you constantly drive through swamps?

No swamps…LOL,

Toyota scheduled maintenance guide states: 30,000 miles.

 

[2001LC]

I was like most, but not anymore. Yes the first time I pack the wheel bearings was at 100,000 miles when I baseline this TLC. I bought it used with under 60K miles on it, assuming they been done by previous owner which they apparently were at ~30,000.

Here's what I found:

The right side bearings looked in great shape. But the left bearings were in pour condition, which I now believe was due to loose bearing nut. Here’s my notes on what I found:

Left front:
Removed and cleaned with solvent & high pressure air.
Found:
Scoring on spindle
Scoring on bearing inside (contact to spindle point)
Metal worn on back of spindle at bearing contact point about .13mm
Axle; blue at bearing contact point indicating excessive heat.
Claw Washer worn ~1/16” at bearing contact point
Gap between flange and snap ring .33mm should be less than .20mm

 

[stonepa]

Yeah 30k is very quick. Most people do it at the same time as the 90k TB, if at all.

Yeah - everything I have looked at from Toyota says every 90k but I easily could have missed it.

I've had it done by a Toyota dealer twice now (every 90k) but I guess I need to find another way this third time.

 

[2001LC]

Yeah - everything I have looked at from Toyota says every 90k but I easily could have missed it.

I've had it done by a Toyota dealer twice now (every 90k) but I guess I need to find another way this third time.

I'm looking at a Toyota 2001 Scheduled Maintenance Guide that I purchased along with FSM from my local dealer in 2004. It states at 30,000: Lubricate wheel BEARINGS and drive shaft bearings (Land Cruiser)

Most dealer do wheel bearings but either miss drive shaft bearing which is inside the spindle or use NGL #2 it calls for #1. Not to be confused with propeller shafts which have 6 or 7 grease serk points done at 5k miles.

 

[SWUtah]

I was like most, but not anymore. Yes the first time I pack the wheel bearings was at 100,000 miles when I baseline this TLC. I bought it used with under 60K miles on it, assuming they been done by previous owner which they apparently were at ~30,000.

Here's what I found:

The right side bearings looked in great shape. But the left bearings were in pour condition, which I now believe was due to loose bearing nut. Here’s my notes on what I found:

Left front:
Removed and cleaned with solvent & high pressure air.
Found:
Scoring on spindle
Scoring on bearing inside (contact to spindle point)
Metal worn on back of spindle at bearing contact point about .13mm
Axle; blue at bearing contact point indicating excessive heat.
Claw Washer worn ~1/16” at bearing contact point
Gap between flange and snap ring .33mm should be less than .20mm

Must of been loose for a long time.

 

[2001LC]

Must of been loose for a long time.

Yes, the wheel bearings were done somewhere between 40 and 70K miles prior, is my best estimate.

But here's the punch line: I replaced both sides to factory specs (torque). At the next 30k, they both had grooved claw washers and other issues. I repacked and RR the bearings, and after a lot of discussion here and with local shops, I went with a higher torque on bearing nuts. It's believed the FSM torque spec is to loose and this causes chatter, grooving of the claw washer(s) and thus loosening even further. The next packing I’ll get a better Idea if the higher torque was sufficient and adjust from their.

 

[super90]

Maybe I missed it on your list but also include T-case fluid, rad hoses and heater hoses.

Other things I will do at 150k after seeing issues a bit after that on my 80-series and 60-series:

• Motor and tranny mounts
• Fan clutch

I have noticed that the motor and tranny mounts were hard and even found one cracked on my 80. New ones made truck much "smoother". Fan clutch was compromised too and I wasn't getting full air flow at stop lights. No overheating, but a/c wasn't working as well.

Those are not FSM items, but they are on my personal list.

 

[Kernal Sanders]

Just got the cruiser back from Scott Clark Toyota in Charlotte. Service from Justin was red carpet. 2k later, they: repacked front wheel bearings ,new brakes all 4 , new rear calipers , new 285 cooper ats-3 , f/r/c diff fluids , adj and lube propeller shaft , front right brake line , alignment , engine oil and filter , fuel system clean and TB , plugs , brake fluid checked good! , coolant flush , power steering fluid checked good! , looks like hoses addressed by PO


Mechanic/Tech said truck was solid as a rock, needed nothing else, everything perfect. Worked out the lockers, everything looked good. Feels tight and new! Thanks for the help and advice. If you are in Charlotte and looking for a good shop, this stealership is worth the trip. Called me every step of the way, sent me text pics on items of concern, great prices on tires and service items. Went through the truck with fine tooth comb.

 

[Kernal Sanders]

Just as a point of reference. They charged $200 to repack bearings..