14B in to my BJ73 VM
After owning an LJ73 for 5 years while constantly looking for a BJ/HZJ 73 on Norwegian plates I found one! Actually it seems to be the only HD 73 in Norway. Due to the huge import taxes on used trucks import was not an option.
This truck was partly built in Portugal and it had a Italian VM 2,5 turbo diesel. These VM engines have a reputation for its poor quality so I decided to replace it with a B# engine.
Just after I bought it i found a 14B at a wrecker with a service record and about 100.000 km on the meter at the last service 2 years before it was wrecked. I paid 1500$ for the engine.
This is the short story of what is needed to fit a 14B in to a BJ7#
- 14B fits on to the BJ bell housing
- Clutch pressure plate from HJ60 with a clutch disk from a BJ71 (13B-T) fits perfect.
- 3B J7 enginmounts is bolt on to the 14B
- Servo pump is integrated in to the engine. This was a tight fit so I had to turn it 180 degrees and I had the local hydraulics firm make new high pressure line as the pump is located on the left side of the engine close to the power steering.
- Vacuum pump is integrated in to the engine.
- I bought a 14B-T(Turbo)ex manifold as the manifold was missing and a turbo is on the to do list. It looks like the stock manifold would fit on to the exhaust with some cutting and welding.
- Intake manifold with glow screen and venture ends really close to the Master cylinder and the intake hose is 3” so it was I tight fit; I solved it with a 3” cobra head from www.intakehoses.com and a flexible heat resistant vacuum hose. (No turbo yet)
- Engine came from a 24V truck so it was necessary to replace the 24V parts (cutoff solenoid and starter)
- I replaced my Bosch alternator with a 70A IC regulated one from a Toyota Carina II passenger car
- Oil pan must be replaced or cut off and welded, I replaced mine with a 3BII (post 89) oil pan from a Land Cruiser, fits perfectly but has a hole for a oil level sensor and I don’t have a sensor on the truck. (Plugged it with some plumbing gear)
- Water outlet housing pointed in the wrong direction, I replaced it with a stock BJ7 housing
- Throttle cable was almost a bolt on , But not sure if a stock BJ throttle cable will fit(Still just a minor)
- I kept my glow system as is with a Bosch relay/timer(12V on to a 24V glow screen) for now.
Gearbox, clutch and mounts
A 14B fits directly on to the H55F with the B series bell housing, but my truck had both bell housing and the input shaft from an HJ 60. Luckily I got hold of an H55f from BJ7# in parts (100$), almost complete so I had the bell housing and the input shaft. Replacing the input shaft without the proper tools was a nightmare, when I pulled it apart I found that the splines on the output shaft and on the transfer input gear was worn so I had to replace them as well. Luckily I had the shaft and only needed to by the gear. I did not replace any bearings, only seals. Gearbox and transfer is working well.
I used engine mounts from a BJ7 and had to replace the brackets on the chassis with a pair from a Bj7 and move them 7,5 cm forward (BJ7# stock location). The VM engine used a HJ60 clutch; I kept the pressure plate and replaced the disk with 13B-T disk (275mm)
Cooling
My radiator was not a BJ type and was in a really bad condition so I ditched it and bought a new Toyota BJ7# radiator. It seems that the 14B engine is running a bit cold. Now in the winter it use a bit long time before it heats up and it reaches “Normal” working temperatures on highways only, I replaced the thermostat but no change. So I guess I will try to cover up some of the radiator during the winter.
Electrics
My truck is a 12v version so I had to do some changes. The starter that came with the engine was in excellent condition so I changed the motor from 24v to 12v and tested it on the garage floor, it worked perfectly, but it did not fit due to limited space between the engine and chassis GRRRR. I got hold of a defect BJ7 starter and changed the housing, problem solved. Back in I tried to crank, it worked for a split second and then silence. Out on the floor again it worked perfectly? Back in with it and the great sound of a click followed by silence hit me GRRR. I grabbed a beer and suddenly remembered that i kept the 24V Switch assy. Out again I replaced the switch assy. with a 12V. Problem solved. My starter is now a LJ7# 12v 2.5 kw starter except for the housing that is from BJ7# 24V. All the parts of the starters are physically interchangeable but you need the housing and the voltage dependent parts that fits the truck.
When starting the engine for the first time, it was really hard to start. My initial thought was air in the fuel system, but it behaved strange, when cranking, it sort of started but needed the starter to run as it slowly increased the rpm and I pushed the throttle it would run ok. I tried a lot of stuff but it kept behaving like this, I started to be a bit worried about the engine. After a couple days it did not start at all. I figured out that it was the cutoff solenoid, I replaced it with the 12v one from the VM engine and problem solved, it starts and runs perfectly. I did test this with 12V to the 24v cutoff before installing the engine and it seemed to be ok. Well NEVER USE 24V parts when the truck is 12V you just mess up for yourself.
I replaced the Bosch alternator in the truck with a 70A Toyota Carina II IC regulated alternator from the local wreck yard (30$), a minor adjustment of the brackets was need. My truck had an internal regulator in the alternator and only 2 cables connected, battery and charge lamp. The new regulator has, battery, Ignition, remote sense and charge lamp connectors. Battery and charge lamp was there, I wired the ignition to the power outlet box that sits beside the battery and I wired the remote sense to the battery. It just works perfect and it charges 14V at 1000 rpm and stays at 14-15V while driving.
A Bosch glow relay unit is in the truck, I need to replace it as it glows too early and too long. Even in -14 Celsius, I just crank the engine while pressing the throttle an it starts. No need to glow.
Running the truck is a pleasure! The 14B engine really “fits” the truck it’s “fast” and powerful It use 0.95 liters pr 10 km in heavy traffic on stock wheels.
On the to do list is turbo, new suspension (Parabolic suspension or Old man Emu) and I am considering the Michelin XZL 255x100x16. I also needs to fix some rust.
But first I need to earn some basic points with the vife while waiting for the spring
Keep on cruising
Best regards from Norway
Kjetil
[/font]
After owning an LJ73 for 5 years while constantly looking for a BJ/HZJ 73 on Norwegian plates I found one! Actually it seems to be the only HD 73 in Norway. Due to the huge import taxes on used trucks import was not an option.
This truck was partly built in Portugal and it had a Italian VM 2,5 turbo diesel. These VM engines have a reputation for its poor quality so I decided to replace it with a B# engine.
Just after I bought it i found a 14B at a wrecker with a service record and about 100.000 km on the meter at the last service 2 years before it was wrecked. I paid 1500$ for the engine.
This is the short story of what is needed to fit a 14B in to a BJ7#
- 14B fits on to the BJ bell housing
- Clutch pressure plate from HJ60 with a clutch disk from a BJ71 (13B-T) fits perfect.
- 3B J7 enginmounts is bolt on to the 14B
- Servo pump is integrated in to the engine. This was a tight fit so I had to turn it 180 degrees and I had the local hydraulics firm make new high pressure line as the pump is located on the left side of the engine close to the power steering.
- Vacuum pump is integrated in to the engine.
- I bought a 14B-T(Turbo)ex manifold as the manifold was missing and a turbo is on the to do list. It looks like the stock manifold would fit on to the exhaust with some cutting and welding.
- Intake manifold with glow screen and venture ends really close to the Master cylinder and the intake hose is 3” so it was I tight fit; I solved it with a 3” cobra head from www.intakehoses.com and a flexible heat resistant vacuum hose. (No turbo yet)
- Engine came from a 24V truck so it was necessary to replace the 24V parts (cutoff solenoid and starter)
- I replaced my Bosch alternator with a 70A IC regulated one from a Toyota Carina II passenger car
- Oil pan must be replaced or cut off and welded, I replaced mine with a 3BII (post 89) oil pan from a Land Cruiser, fits perfectly but has a hole for a oil level sensor and I don’t have a sensor on the truck. (Plugged it with some plumbing gear)
- Water outlet housing pointed in the wrong direction, I replaced it with a stock BJ7 housing
- Throttle cable was almost a bolt on , But not sure if a stock BJ throttle cable will fit(Still just a minor)
- I kept my glow system as is with a Bosch relay/timer(12V on to a 24V glow screen) for now.
Gearbox, clutch and mounts
A 14B fits directly on to the H55F with the B series bell housing, but my truck had both bell housing and the input shaft from an HJ 60. Luckily I got hold of an H55f from BJ7# in parts (100$), almost complete so I had the bell housing and the input shaft. Replacing the input shaft without the proper tools was a nightmare, when I pulled it apart I found that the splines on the output shaft and on the transfer input gear was worn so I had to replace them as well. Luckily I had the shaft and only needed to by the gear. I did not replace any bearings, only seals. Gearbox and transfer is working well.
I used engine mounts from a BJ7 and had to replace the brackets on the chassis with a pair from a Bj7 and move them 7,5 cm forward (BJ7# stock location). The VM engine used a HJ60 clutch; I kept the pressure plate and replaced the disk with 13B-T disk (275mm)
Cooling
My radiator was not a BJ type and was in a really bad condition so I ditched it and bought a new Toyota BJ7# radiator. It seems that the 14B engine is running a bit cold. Now in the winter it use a bit long time before it heats up and it reaches “Normal” working temperatures on highways only, I replaced the thermostat but no change. So I guess I will try to cover up some of the radiator during the winter.
Electrics
My truck is a 12v version so I had to do some changes. The starter that came with the engine was in excellent condition so I changed the motor from 24v to 12v and tested it on the garage floor, it worked perfectly, but it did not fit due to limited space between the engine and chassis GRRRR. I got hold of a defect BJ7 starter and changed the housing, problem solved. Back in I tried to crank, it worked for a split second and then silence. Out on the floor again it worked perfectly? Back in with it and the great sound of a click followed by silence hit me GRRR. I grabbed a beer and suddenly remembered that i kept the 24V Switch assy. Out again I replaced the switch assy. with a 12V. Problem solved. My starter is now a LJ7# 12v 2.5 kw starter except for the housing that is from BJ7# 24V. All the parts of the starters are physically interchangeable but you need the housing and the voltage dependent parts that fits the truck.
When starting the engine for the first time, it was really hard to start. My initial thought was air in the fuel system, but it behaved strange, when cranking, it sort of started but needed the starter to run as it slowly increased the rpm and I pushed the throttle it would run ok. I tried a lot of stuff but it kept behaving like this, I started to be a bit worried about the engine. After a couple days it did not start at all. I figured out that it was the cutoff solenoid, I replaced it with the 12v one from the VM engine and problem solved, it starts and runs perfectly. I did test this with 12V to the 24v cutoff before installing the engine and it seemed to be ok. Well NEVER USE 24V parts when the truck is 12V you just mess up for yourself.
I replaced the Bosch alternator in the truck with a 70A Toyota Carina II IC regulated alternator from the local wreck yard (30$), a minor adjustment of the brackets was need. My truck had an internal regulator in the alternator and only 2 cables connected, battery and charge lamp. The new regulator has, battery, Ignition, remote sense and charge lamp connectors. Battery and charge lamp was there, I wired the ignition to the power outlet box that sits beside the battery and I wired the remote sense to the battery. It just works perfect and it charges 14V at 1000 rpm and stays at 14-15V while driving.
A Bosch glow relay unit is in the truck, I need to replace it as it glows too early and too long. Even in -14 Celsius, I just crank the engine while pressing the throttle an it starts. No need to glow.
Running the truck is a pleasure! The 14B engine really “fits” the truck it’s “fast” and powerful It use 0.95 liters pr 10 km in heavy traffic on stock wheels.
On the to do list is turbo, new suspension (Parabolic suspension or Old man Emu) and I am considering the Michelin XZL 255x100x16. I also needs to fix some rust.
But first I need to earn some basic points with the vife while waiting for the spring
Keep on cruising
Best regards from Norway
Kjetil
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