'14 LX570 AHC Bleed/Fluid flush...by an unprofessional (1 Viewer)

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I buy from local Toyota dealer for $16/L
 
It's an easy job. Everything @grinchy said plus you may have a little trouble getting to the rear 10mm bleeders. I would recommend a ratcheting flex head. It can be done with a standard 10mm though.
If you’re draining it, use a flex ratcheting wrench…if you’re bleeding it do not…you can’t tighten it back once you’re done bleeding unless you swap the ratcheting wrench over, which will make a mess.
 
I just changed my oil yesterday, and followed a bit of a different procedure. I extracted fluid from reservoir in Low mode. Then refilled to top with new Toyota AHC fluid. Then went to High, then bled the actuators until the vehicle dropped down completely and oil stopped flowing. I started car after each corner and made sure reservoir was filled, and after each start I would bleed again until last drop of old oil came out and only new one was there, this also made sure no more air was in the system. First one takes longer.

The ride change is incredible. Normal feels like Sport, Comfort like normal. I also don't feel the vehicle adjusting so much, must do it gradually. Feels like a new vehicle. I also got about 1/2 inch of height more on normal in fronts!. And it fixed the sagging left driver side. I had tried to reset it with Techstream but it didn't work. Probably was set correct but crappy oil and air did not allow it to correct before.

I made an extractor from a container with two holes in it and two pieces of tube. One going into reservoir and one taped to the intake of my portable wet dry vac.

Next my Dobinson drawers. I also got the Slee second battery tray and RED ARC wiring kit. Also my Rhino 4x4 bumper should be arriving in a couple of weeks from Argentina!


Just thought I would share.
Did you raise the height back to H after each corner was bled?
 
Did you raise the height back to H after each corner was bled?
No need to raise to High. Start the rig and the pump will replace the fluid that you bled out.
 
So wonderful people on MUD, stupid question of day. Is the bleeding (opening bleeder valves by globes) done while car is running on Low or off on Low? If I got this straight , I need to set lx on low setting, vacuum suck old fluid from resivour, fill resi with new fluid, than crack open each bleeder valve until new fluid comes out, starting with the front driver then passenger, then driver rear and lastly passenger rear.. All while car is on or off? And yes, while bleeding each globe, make sure to keep adding fluid to resi so as to not let it run dry and introduce air to system..
 
So wonderful people on MUD, stupid question of day. Is the bleeding (opening bleeder valves by globes) done while car is running on Low or off on Low? If I got this straight , I need to set lx on low setting, vacuum suck old fluid from resivour, fill resi with new fluid, than crack open each bleeder valve until new fluid comes out, starting with the front driver then passenger, then driver rear and lastly passenger rear.. All while car is on or off? And yes, while bleeding each globe, make sure to keep adding fluid to resi so as to not let it run dry and introduce air to system..
Anyone? Just bought 5 liters of the snake oil, still question about procedure.
•Start rig, set to low, then turn off?
•Suck old fluid out
•Fill resi with new fluid
•Turn on rig before bleeding first valve or leave vehicle off while bleeding?
My question is I don't know when to start/turn off vehicle while bleeding..
 

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