'13 LX recurring brake issues (1 Viewer)

[bloc]

After I get the new OE rotors and pads installed, should I do any sort of bedding? The Stoptech rotors that are being replaced had a bed-in process described either in the box or on the company's website.

No I wouldn’t bother with bedding factory parts. Stoptech asks users to do that mostly because of different pad compounds, but also because they can. Most people running their stuff want higher performance and are willing to do a little work for it. Asking the same of the average new car buyer?

I second your feeling that this is a pain to do. While we don't have mountains, we have 5 million people in our fair city and surrounds, which makes for a lot of stop and go traffic. I hear the point that these vehicles are heavy, but a lot of vehicles are heavy. My sister's suburban does not have this problem. Nor does my dad's Ram 3500. Both are 6,000lb+ vehicles.

If you take a close look at the brakes on any 3/4 ton pickup it’ll make a lot more sense why they don’t have these issues.. or at least not in the same uses you are. Treat them the same driving hard at the limit of what that thing will tow without trailer brakes… It’ll go similarly.

The suburban is a more direct comparison, but even then they aren’t asked to do nearly what a cruiser does off-road. Keep in mind this vehicle is built from the ground up for different uses. It could also be as simple as small differences in what OEMs use for their pad compounds, or consider acceptable for things like dust (early 2000s benzes had great brakes but dusted like crazy.)

 

[LC2015]

I had a similar experience with my 200 rotors.
I put on some "BrakeMotive" rotors and they developed pulsing within about 15k miles.
I put on some new Raybestos rotors and they now developed the same after about 15k miles.
Next swap I'm going OEM to see if it helps.

 

[Realtalk]

No I wouldn’t bother with bedding factory parts. Stoptech asks users to do that mostly because of different pad compounds, but also because they can. Most people running their stuff want higher performance and are willing to do a little work for it. Asking the same of the average new car buyer?


If you take a close look at the brakes on any 3/4 ton pickup it’ll make a lot more sense why they don’t have these issues.. or at least not in the same uses you are. Treat them the same driving hard at the limit of what that thing will tow without trailer brakes… It’ll go similarly.

The suburban is a more direct comparison, but even then they aren’t asked to do nearly what a cruiser does off-road. Keep in mind this vehicle is built from the ground up for different uses. It could also be as simple as small differences in what OEMs use for their pad compounds, or consider acceptable for things like dust (early 2000s benzes had great brakes but dusted like crazy.)

Makes sense. Thanks for contributing. I'm always learning and like hearing explanations for things that don't seem to make sense to me "at first blush."

 

[bloc]

Makes sense. Thanks for contributing. I'm always learning and like hearing explanations for things that don't seem to make sense to me "at first blush."

Any time. This is how I’ve learned over the years.

And I suggest actually taking a look at those 3/4-ton brakes. They are massive!

 

[coleAK]

I also have a ‘13 LX. I’m the original owner at 85k miles. Pull a ~6800 lb camper all over Alaska well over half the miles on my truck is towing on mountain, curvy, rough AK roads. At ~40k miles I replaced pads with OEM and ~70k miles I replaced the pads with stopTech and rotors with OEM. I drive the LX like the big white elephant it is, start slow, stop slow, turn slow... Only car I would ever consider slotted/drilled rotors on is a track car with high end purpose built, my GT3 had PCCBs.

 

[Realtalk]

Update...had the front rotors and pads replaced with OEM, rear OEM rotors turned (tech said they looked good and recommended against replacing them) and rear pads. System was flushed as well. Feels like a new truck. The pedal was always mushy, even after the previous brake job. Now it feels firm and "confident." Thanks for everyone's advice on here.

As a side note, after reading PCV valve posts on here, I replaced mine two days ago. Took me all of about 10 minutes thanks to guidance from this forum. The one I removed was basically clean and rattled freely. I bet Lexus replaced it during one of the service intervals for the previous owner. It looked fairly new. Oh well. $10 for peace of mind.

 

[Ruquik]

Update....Lexus looked it over this morning and said all rotors are shot. They all need replacing (with new pads). I expected this, and was going to ask them to replace them all with OE anyways.

However, they also discovered a nice crack in the radiator, which was leaking. This is concerning, given the heat down here in Houston. I also just road-tripped to New Orleans this past weekend. Thank goodness it didn't give up on me and the family in the middle of nowhere.



3. Toyota Repair and Mod Shop
Rotors and Pads all around: $1390
Radiator: $1357

I'm in the Florida panhandle...

I actually had Toyota cover the cost of the radiator after contacting customer support last February on my 2013. I was $270sih out of pocket for install and coolant.