12v socket connection issues

[WTITW]

Anyone have ideas on a better 12v socket for me? I have the Blue sea (https://amzn.to/4aIcaWp) in the back of my console and have all sorts of trouble getting various plugs to be able connect through it. I just got a new SetPower fridge for the rig, and its plug doesn't seem to work at all. I've had the same issues with various inflators. Some work, a lot don't. My old fridge plug worked but even that one can work it's way loose after a bumpy day on the trail.

 

[ScoMey]

Dometic (and I believe ARB also) use a 2-Pin 12 Volt connection that is quite secure. Not sure if their 12 volt power cord is compatible with your fridge, but you could always cut and splice the business end to work with your setup.

Dometic Hardwiring Kit DC - DC Hardwiring Kit to power a cooler or other 12V/24V devices

Dometic Hardwiring Kit DC - Use Dometic’s Hardwiring Kit - DC to supply power anywhere in your vehicle from your starter or auxiliary battery. Two output socket types - standard and Dometic’s 2-pin threaded for a secure connection to your powered cooler.

www.dometic.com

Scott

 

[Bang Bang]

I have several cheap 12V sockets I got off Amazon that I have had no issues with. Currently running a SetPower 80qt in the rear of the GX. This is one of the brands I have.......https://a.co/d/9iJQ01H

 

[WTITW]

Maybe I just got a bad one ... I'll try another.

 

[r2m]

Anyone have ideas on a better 12v socket for me? I have the Blue sea (https://amzn.to/4aIcaWp) in the back of my console and have all sorts of trouble getting various plugs to be able connect through it. I just got a new SetPower fridge for the rig, and its plug doesn't seem to work at all. I've had the same issues with various inflators. Some work, a lot don't. My old fridge plug worked but even that one can work it's way loose after a bumpy day on the trail.

I too have had that issue. When I use my power panel in the back (the jack access door) for the fridge, I will usually wedge something soft against it.
My opinion, cigarette sockets are a very poor way to get 12 VDC.
I've also used a a thin shim to make the plug fit tighter in the socket.
From some bubble pack or water bottle, cut a thin long piece of plastic, about a 1/4" wide x 1-1/2" long strip (like a large paper match). Place that next to the plug with a little longer on the bottom to lead in and then plug it in. It should now be nice and snug.
About the not connecting issue:

1. Did you try rotating the plug in the socket?
2. Is there any corrosion on the plug?
3. Are the contact tabs on the plug sticking out far enough with a lot of spring force?
4. Does it work in one position and not another? If so there may be a short in the plug.

Suggestion, if you do get another, perhaps get a combination USB and cigarette port. I just the dual USB port on the back of my console because I considered that the only persons to use it would be my daughter (when she was younger, and folks who need to charge their phones. I have since considered adding a cigarette socket there now since I don't really care for having to always feed the fridge line from the passenger middle seat to the driver's rear quarter panel.

 

[WTITW]

I too have had that issue. When I use my power panel in the back (the jack access door) for the fridge, I will usually wedge something soft against it.
My opinion, cigarette sockets are a very poor way to get 12 VDC.
I've also used a a thin shim to make the plug fit tighter in the socket.
From some bubble pack or water bottle, cut a thin long piece of plastic, about a 1/4" wide x 1-1/2" long strip (like a large paper match). Place that next to the plug with a little longer on the bottom to lead in and then plug it in. It should now be nice and snug.
About the not connecting issue:

1. Did you try rotating the plug in the socket?
2. Is there any corrosion on the plug?
3. Are the contact tabs on the plug sticking out far enough with a lot of spring force?
4. Does it work in one position and not another? If so there may be a short in the plug.

Suggestion, if you do get another, perhaps get a combination USB and cigarette port. I just the dual USB port on the back of my console because I considered that the only persons to use it would be my daughter (when she was younger, and folks who need to charge their phones. I have since considered adding a cigarette socket there now since I don't really care for having to always feed the fridge line from the passenger middle seat to the driver's rear quarter panel.

Yeah, all the easy stuff is ticked. I've always had issues with this socket so maybe it's time to tear the console apart and swap it out and check the internals.

Does anybody have any ideas of where to ground under the center console? I ran ground all the way back to the firewall when I installed these the first time, but it seems like there should be somewhere in the floor near the shifter linkage that would shorten my overall length by 3-4 ft.

 

[r2m]

Yeah, all the easy stuff is ticked. I've always had issues with this socket so maybe it's time to tear the console apart and swap it out and check the internals.

Does anybody have any ideas of where to ground under the center console? I ran ground all the way back to the firewall when I installed these the first time, but it seems like there should be somewhere in the floor near the shifter linkage that would shorten my overall length by 3-4 ft.

When I wired the passenger side wireless charger cradle for my wife, I tapped into the cigarette lighter for both hot and ground. Easy access. I used a T-crimp on connector.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072N7S3DL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Rednexus]

I'd suggest splicing in a Deutsch connector. Just cut off the socket pigtail and wire it directly in - same as the fridge. It's a waterproof connection and much more secure. Agree that cigarette lighter plugs really suck. Deutsch connectors do require a special crimper that is around $20-30. I did all of my aux electrical upgrades using Deutsch connectors and probably won't go back to using anything else. They are also pretty easy to disassemble and re-pin if you want to change something.

https://www.amazon.com/JRREADY-Connector-Waterproof-Electrical-Contact/dp/B07VF2W6FJ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1Y0XK8RH0N9TI&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.0dvRJtnutqnZKP4MPqZYqSWRWQLMaPsE0wmhuy-ZVXecb_Wg0J1I6HxaWTESduqc4k_10gw9EgCGCx_AmtEGWv9YIkbR8ikoX7O9pHlEv4faJ_pgc9iRSeZezferfMGrrQ5Gkhdj8JfL-fp4kmNCcIFuYSVmmBDnn3hsYa35amzJfA05Lu5wrSWkp8HXeDREIetbkOTthEF41Vq7p0Gftlv4lW7fMLNIkupIUChJFybN6da7ymCtTu5XsXQfvmmSfmwxqRvmB8ZtF7EBTEZfYttC9Eu5vVfvLW4_Xg9XMBw.bnWuklf42zaJ9OCzsvYAbJ1cJs50756HNZTn9_ZcUQE&dib_tag=se&keywords=12%2Bvolt%2Bconnectors%2Bdeutsch%2Bjrready&qid=1713807980&s=automotive&sprefix=12%2Bvolt%2Bconnectors%2Bdetusch%2Bjready%2Cautomotive%2C90&sr=1-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

Of if you don't want to jump to Deutsch, these might also work:

https://www.amazon.com/Depvko-Connector-Waterproof-Extension-Generator/dp/B0B7G61H15/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1GD5ACWZCPQRS&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9._5vb_NxA7E4_4-muaNvYwE09bhoRjXYkndv6swtiUh6uGTvtscwwkNFYCaPIQYY3U6dwjh3ixde-zBt-dQ7KQGmC40JhUolMmHqubYyPFfcLyNhpNrd6U5bq92QVksTOfNabH4OatphUb3-qR9FKhA4vi5X0HrnYP5wjTerzFgARVTyZEaBfr2Csdh2Iw0oTRIh0IeGuYTpImZ0Y3y3J7DAOAjfzrhqIBdx-fyz53YjhE8bhvTyrtSKOYMLs0-Wt5BvGxkQMdAjz-rGdmOaqQeDYGfUhcxGxoCXkwdONIjs.ngVs48qe9KKcA8lBGSFxBMWnIysTAcuBh268j0Olm2c&dib_tag=se&keywords=12%2Bvolt%2Bconnectors&qid=1713807949&s=automotive&sprefix=12%2Bvolt%2Bconnectors%2Cautomotive%2C92&sr=1-7&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Waterproof-Terminal-Connector-10-Warranty/dp/B07FJPMML6/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1GD5ACWZCPQRS&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9._5vb_NxA7E4_4-muaNvYwE09bhoRjXYkndv6swtiUh6uGTvtscwwkNFYCaPIQYY3U6dwjh3ixde-zBt-dQ7KQGmC40JhUolMmHqubYyPFfcLyNhpNrd6U5bq92QVksTOfNabH4OatphUb3-qR9FKhA4vi5X0HrnYP5wjTerzFgARVTyZEaBfr2Csdh2Iw0oTRIh0IeGuYTpImZ0Y3y3J7DAOAjfzrhqIBdx-fyz53YjhE8bhvTyrtSKOYMLs0-Wt5BvGxkQMdAjz-rGdmOaqQeDYGfUhcxGxoCXkwdONIjs.ngVs48qe9KKcA8lBGSFxBMWnIysTAcuBh268j0Olm2c&dib_tag=se&keywords=12%2Bvolt%2Bconnectors&qid=1713807949&s=automotive&sprefix=12%2Bvolt%2Bconnectors%2Cautomotive%2C92&sr=1-4&th=1

 

[WTITW]

I'd suggest splicing in a Deutsch connector. Just cut off the socket pigtail and wire it directly in - same as the fridge. It's a waterproof connection and much more secure. Agree that cigarette lighter plugs really suck. Deutsch connectors do require a special crimper that is around $20-30. I did all of my aux electrical upgrades using Deutsch connectors and probably won't go back to using anything else. They are also pretty easy to disassemble and re-pin if you want to change something.

Those are all good suggestions. I have used the last ones for my ditch lights, and I think I have some extras. I might go that route in the rear off-the-seat harness when I get to that. I need the center console one to be flexible, though, for inflators and such, so I think I'll start with swapping that one out, changing the USB round socket next to it to a one-off switch type, and moving it to always on as well, per @r2m 's suggestion from a while back.

 

[WTITW]

Oh you guys are going to love this one. What’s the first thing you check when an electronic device stops working? You check if the idiot troubleshooting knows what a burned fuse looks like.

Yeah, all the easy stuff is ticked.

No it wasn’t you moron.

 

[Washingtontaco]

I went with Merit type plugs, way better connection than a standard US plug. I noticed my fridge cycling a lot less.

https://www.frontrunneroutfitters.com/en/us/merit-female-plug.html

https://www.frontrunneroutfitters.com/en/us/hella-male-plug.html

 

[r2m]

Oh you guys are going to love this one. What’s the first thing you check when an electronic device stops working? You check if the idiot troubleshooting knows what a burned fuse looks like.

No it wasn’t you moron.

View attachment 3616844

Just hope whatever popped that fuse isn't chronic and a hint of a bigger electrical issue.

 

[WTITW]

It was only a 15 amp fuse and I've been running my fridge off it so I'm sure that's it. I over wired it so it should be able to handle 30amps at that length (14g) so I'm guessing it's from running the fridge while it charged the fridge's battery (My old fridge had a built-in). Its also wire loomed the whole way so I figured it was safe to stick a new one in and see if it happens again.

It grounds all the way back to the footwell fuse box, so it might benefit from finding a ground under the center console to save a few feet of wire.

I carry two extinguishers.... because I'm hoping my aim is better than my engineering skills. if it keeps popping, I'll just throw a 50amp fuse in there to shut it up Just kidding.