12v outlets no power

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So... I finally figured it out. The PO had rigged up their own wires in fuse 38 and 39. they had swapped a 5A fuse into 39 and it was blown. I thought 38 was actually 39, the 5a fuse threw me off. So I put a 15a fuse in there and we are good to go. Problem solved.
 
So I am having an issue with my 12v pwr plugs. My 12v sockets are only reading 6.8 volts when I meter them. Any thoughts on what could be dropping the voltage? What ever the issue is it is happening at the circuit level I am guessing because the the pwr port in the front dash is reading the same as the one in the center console.
 
Just so I'm clear from the other thread...

When you metered the outlets was the voltage low on the CIG as well as the power outlets?

The right dash, center console and rear are all on the same circuit. The left dash outlet is on a seperate.

Never tired the cig. Just metered the pwr outlets.
 
Try your battery, too... :lol:
 
Try your battery, too... :lol:

You mean try metering the battery to see what the voltage is?

I think its okay but will test this evening when the wife gets home.
 
You mean try metering the battery to see what the voltage is?

I think its okay but will test this evening when the wife gets home.
Just wondering if your meter is whacked. If you 6.8 on your battery, you know where the problem is...
 
The right dash, center console and rear are all on the same circuit. The left dash outlet is on a seperate.

So would it be a bad thing to have the CB radio hooked to the center console outlet if its on a shared circuit? Seems like it would reduce the power going to the CB if the other outlets are being used too?
 
Just wondering if your meter is whacked. If you 6.8 on your battery, you know where the problem is...

That is a good point. Will report back findings...
 
It is not bad, but it is better to wire the CB to a separate circuit directly from the battery with its own fuse.
 
no-pistons said:
So would it be a bad thing to have the CB radio hooked to the center console outlet if its on a shared circuit? Seems like it would reduce the power going to the CB if the other outlets are being used too?

I would run a dedicated circuit for a radio.... Though a cb is only 4 watts and doesn't draw much current, someday you'll want a ham radio and it pulls a fair amount.

Sent from my iPad 2 using IH8MUD
 
So the findings are in and I am getting 12.8v at the batt. So its not the meter. So what else could cause half the voltage on the pwr outlet circuit?
 
Bad earth?
Just run a separate wire from the battery to the UHF radio and you are done.
 
...So what else could cause half the voltage on the pwr outlet circuit?
Literally, like a bazillion things. :lol:















Seriously...


























Have you read this thread? :lol::lol::lol:

How committed are you to fixing this?
 
I am fairly committed to fixing the issue. Just kind of wondering if there are dome simple things I can check before it goes to Toyota for diagnosis.

It makes sense why my phone would never charge.
 
I am fairly committed to fixing the issue. Just kind of wondering if there are dome simple things I can check before it goes to Toyota for diagnosis.

It makes sense why my phone would never charge.

Start with the easy stuff first, and find out all you can about the problem. Do all three outlets on the Power Outlet circuit have the same voltage readings, including the one in the back? Have you checked the 15A fuse in the driver's kick panel with your meter for continuity? Swap it with a new, tested, known good 15A fuse and measure again. Do you see any bizarre PO mods (key learning from this thread).

The three power outlets don't share their circuit with anything else, and there is an ACC relay and a 50A ACC fuse in the driver's side engine bay fuse block that provide power only to the 3 power outlets. You should get 12V all the way from the 50A fuse down through the relay (across pins 3 and 4) and down to the drive's kickpanel fuse block (be very careful probing the fuse blocks).

The front 2 outlets share a common ground from center dash over to the driver's kickpanel, but the back one is on a different ground. I guess it's possible that the problem is on the gound side, but the power outlets share connectors and ground points with many, many other components, so unless it's a single pin problem in a connector, I'd think it unlikely. Unless the front two have low voltage and the back one has 12V?

Start with the 3 voltage readings. And you really ought to pick up an EWD. I see www.books4cars.com is out of the '00 version, but still has an '02. I'd bet they're pretty darn similar. (there's also two on e-bay right now for the '00). I'd scan pages, but you end up flipping all over the place to find power sources, connector locations, component locations, etc. etc. For instance, if you want to track down everything on the Power Outlet circuit, it's scattered across at least 14 different pages of the manual. Best 50 bucks you'll ever spend (well, today anyway :lol:).

Good luck and keep us posted.
 
I decided to bump this ancient thread rather than start a new one, because this is entirely relevant to my issue. All three of the power outlets on fuse (15A, I think number 44) seem to be dead in my 2001 LX 470.

When I initially bought the car, I could swear that they worked, but I only tested them when I bought the car. Sometime after I bought it I went to install a fuse tap to wire my dash cam. I chose fuse 44 since it was for the 12V+ power outlet circuit. I noticed that it didn't power up my dash cam and then I checked the power outlets and noticed they were dead too. I decided to use fuse 32 (cigar) for the dash cam and it went fine. Cigar circuit is ok, but power outlets are a no go.

Fuse 44 looked fine, but just in case I was going crazy I swapped it out with another 15A fuse. Didn't work. Yes, key was "ON". I checked the 50A fuse in the engine bay as well, pulled and re-seated it. Nothing else seems to be broken, just these three outlets.

So now I'm wondering if the ACC relay is toast?

Am I reading this right? See picture below... EWD shows 50A fuse leading to the ACC relay at pin 1. That appears to be switched to pin 2. That directly feeds the 15A power outlets. The three outlets all get power from this feed and the two front console ones share a ground. The third row outlet has a different ground. (Since I tested all three outlets thoroughly during my troubleshooting, it's probably not a ground issue since what's the chance two grounds would fail?). Then when the ignition is turned on, it sends the power back through the relay (squiggly coil inside) which should flip the switch in the relay and turn on the power to the outlets. Right?

So based on this, if I pull the relay out I should get a constant 12V+ at pin 1 of the ACC relay in the fuse box, and if I leave the relay in with the ignition on, I should get 12V+ from one of the connectors in the fuse box at fuse 44.

Is there a way to test a relay either inside of the fuse box, or outside of it, to see if it's working?

Does my method above seem sound, or am I thinking about this wrong? It's been a long week and I wanted someone's input.

Thanks!

2D70DB1B-64B3-4350-80C8-4A039F6657E8.webp
 
For whatever reason, when I pulled the ACC relay from the fuse box and re-seated it, apparently that fixed the problem. If it does this again, I'm replacing the relay.
 
Great thread and thank you @petrotk40. Your pics were very helpful. I managed to make all my cigarette lighters not work hooking up a s***ty air compressor. Anyways was able to fix the center console audio and the middle cigarette lighter by replacing #21 the cigarette labeled fuse under the driver side with a 15amp fuse but the other cigerette lighters passenger side, center and rear ones still didn’t work. I used @petrotk40 pic to figure out and replace #39 the pwr outlet I think it’s labeled and the fixed all the other ones. Thanks again.
 

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