100k service plans (1 Viewer)

[Banshee365]

Hey all. I've got a nearly $700 parts list put together when the wife's new LX 570 hits 100k in the next 2k miles. We just got it last week. I'm planning to do:

• Engine oil and filter
• Coolant change
• Transmission fluid exchange with new filter and pan gasket
• Front and rear differentials with Toyota 75W85
• Transfer case with Toyota 75W
• Grease prop shafts
• AHC fluid change
• Replace missing cover under engine oil drain plug with bolts

I guess my main question is if it's best to replace the trans filter or just leave it alone. I've rebuilt a few A340E's in LS 400's so I'm somewhat familiar with transmissions. On the A340 the 'filter' is just a metal strainer. It's not really needed to be replaced unless it's contaminated, which means you're in for an overhaul soon. LOL

Is the filter on this trans the same or is it a media type that would be best to replace after dropping and cleaning the pan out. That's a good chunk of change to do the filter and pan gasket but if it's best to do it I'm all for it. I won't cheap out on maintenance on something like this.

In other news, I found the coolant overflow empty. I topped it off with Toyota ULLC to the full mark. Several days later it's 3/4" down or so from full. THEN I read around about it being hard to keep coolant in the 3UR. I took a peak under the intake on the drivers side and guess what I see? Some pink crusties. I guess that is in my future now as well. I'll have to check the water pump when I have the skid plates off as well I suppose.

 

[CharlieS]

I have a weeping water pump too, but it doesn't drop noticably in the reservoir yet. Yours seems to be losing coolant fast. My pink SLLC crustys are on the front of the engine, on the front (US) passenger side where the water pump is located.

US driver's side sounds like a different cause? Valley seal leak maybe?

Maybe read up on the radiator failure psa thread too? At 100k you're in the right mileage range to be seeing symptoms.

I have a water pump, idler pulley, serpentine belt, thermostat, hoses and radiator in the garage. I still need to get the SLLC, but social distancing has made that tricky to get. At least that way, I'm not stuck waiting for parts.

 

[codename607]

This is a good thread for me as I'm about to approach the 100k mark. Talking with my local dealer they only recommended that I get the coolant flushed.

 

[Banshee365]

Yea, that's all the book says. Manufacturers are pressured to require as little maintenance as possible for environmental reasons. The least waste oils the better for them. We all know that isn't what's best for the vehicle. If you just follow the recommendations in your book for carrying heavier internal passenger loads, off roading or towing you'll find much more frequent intervals on fluids that otherwise are considered lifetime under 'normal driving conditions', which is BS. Also, my $700 parts list would probably equate to $2000 at least for a dealer to perform and they know a quote like that will just scare most people off. An oil change and coolant flush is a lot more reasonable.


My question is regarding the transmission filter. Is it best to replace it while exchanging the fluid or just leave it in there. I'd like to clean the pan and magnets anway but the filter, filter o-ring and pan gasket total like $80 so I'd like to make sure it's advisable to replace it. On the A340 the 'filter' is just a strainer and will not collec much material unless there is a problem in the trans causing excessive clutch material wear.

 

[linuxgod]

A full transmission fluid flush (~12 quarts) is much more valuable than the trans filter replacement. The transmission is sealed so I would not expect it to catch anything unless your transmission is deteriorating. Now if your pan gasket is leaking, then I'd absolutely swap the filter while you've got the pan off, but under normal circumstances I don't believe it's necessary to drop the pan, so long as you do the full 12 quart fluid swap and are seeing clean fluid coming out at the end of the procedure, as I'm pretty sure it's just a mesh strainer.

Do the brake fluid, if it's not been done in a few years. It's cheap and easy and a couple quarts of new Prestone is much better than whatever old fluid you have in there. I think mine cost me $20 in parts including a one-man brake bleeder.

New air filter as well, if yours is dirty.

I'd add the PCV valve to your list. It's like $5 and takes maybe 5-10 minutes to swap... took me longer to locate it than to actually do the swap.

FWIW I thought coolant was a a 120k item per the manual but I could be misremembering. I think plugs are recommended at 100k or 120k as well, though apparently a few are a PITA to get to. But if you have to do the water pump then of course new coolant...

If you end up doing the water pump, I'd do the serpentine belt, tensioner and idler. My tensioner started squeaking at 100k. Thermostat while you've got the water pump off as it adds maybe 10 minutes to the job. I'd also do the radiator if you have the cooling system apart if it's original as they are extremely common to go in the 100-120k range, and it'll be much easier to do the water pump with the radiator off. Radiator hoses as well, of course. Toyota says the clamps are not reusable but I think most folks reuse them without issue.

 

[TLC2013]

A full transmission fluid flush (~12 quarts) is much more valuable than the trans filter replacement. The transmission is sealed so I would not expect it to catch anything unless your transmission is deteriorating. Now if your pan gasket is leaking, then I'd absolutely swap the filter while you've got the pan off, but under normal circumstances I don't believe it's necessary to drop the pan, so long as you do the full 12 quart fluid swap and are seeing clean fluid coming out at the end of the procedure, as I'm pretty sure it's just a mesh strainer.

Do the brake fluid, if it's not been done in a few years. It's cheap and easy and a couple quarts of new Prestone is much better than whatever old fluid you have in there. I think mine cost me $20 in parts including a one-man brake bleeder.

New air filter as well, if yours is dirty.

I'd add the PCV valve to your list. It's like $5 and takes maybe 5-10 minutes to swap... took me longer to locate it than to actually do the swap.

FWIW I thought coolant was a a 120k item per the manual but I could be misremembering. I think plugs are recommended at 100k or 120k as well, though apparently a few are a PITA to get to. But if you have to do the water pump then of course new coolant...

If you end up doing the water pump, I'd do the serpentine belt, tensioner and idler. My tensioner started squeaking at 100k. Thermostat while you've got the water pump off as it adds maybe 10 minutes to the job. I'd also do the radiator if you have the cooling system apart if it's original as they are extremely common to go in the 100-120k range, and it'll be much easier to do the water pump with the radiator off. Radiator hoses as well, of course. Toyota says the clamps are not reusable but I think most folks reuse them without issue.

Great advise. I did all of the above once I developed the dreaded radiator crack at 85,000 miles.
Figure all that is left is the starter and coolant valley leak to be mindful of going forward.

 

[Banshee365]

A full transmission fluid flush (~12 quarts) is much more valuable than the trans filter replacement. The transmission is sealed so I would not expect it to catch anything unless your transmission is deteriorating. Now if your pan gasket is leaking, then I'd absolutely swap the filter while you've got the pan off, but under normal circumstances I don't believe it's necessary to drop the pan, so long as you do the full 12 quart fluid swap and are seeing clean fluid coming out at the end of the procedure, as I'm pretty sure it's just a mesh strainer.

Do the brake fluid, if it's not been done in a few years. It's cheap and easy and a couple quarts of new Prestone is much better than whatever old fluid you have in there. I think mine cost me $20 in parts including a one-man brake bleeder.

New air filter as well, if yours is dirty.

I'd add the PCV valve to your list. It's like $5 and takes maybe 5-10 minutes to swap... took me longer to locate it than to actually do the swap.

FWIW I thought coolant was a a 120k item per the manual but I could be misremembering. I think plugs are recommended at 100k or 120k as well, though apparently a few are a PITA to get to. But if you have to do the water pump then of course new coolant...

If you end up doing the water pump, I'd do the serpentine belt, tensioner and idler. My tensioner started squeaking at 100k. Thermostat while you've got the water pump off as it adds maybe 10 minutes to the job. I'd also do the radiator if you have the cooling system apart if it's original as they are extremely common to go in the 100-120k range, and it'll be much easier to do the water pump with the radiator off. Radiator hoses as well, of course. Toyota says the clamps are not reusable but I think most folks reuse them without issue.

I was planning to do the 12 quart exchange on top of the pan removal and filter replacement. I mainly wanted to clean the pan and clean the magnets. That cannot be done without removing the pan. If the filter is of the metal strainer type then perhaps it's best to just leave it alone. It wouldn't hurt to change it but it is $80 at my discounted prices to do the pan gasket, filter and filter o-ring.

The brake fluid was kept up in the Lexus service records by the dealer but I can do that again. It's easy as pie with my MityVac 7201.

The manual shows the coolant to be replaced at 100k and the plugs at 120k. My radiator does have an every so slight hairline crack at the rectangle boss on the upper plastic tank where they like to crack. Mine is every so slight. You can barely see anything. My water pump is dry from what all I can see under it with a mirror and light. The only crusty's I can find is a faint pink film visible under the intake manifold from the heat exchanger. Fun fun...

 

[Phalen302]

I need to do these service on 15 Lx with 115k miles on the clock. Only thing I did at 100k was oil and filter, actually with min maintenance, it has been flawless and drives like new.

 

[linuxgod]

I was planning to do the 12 quart exchange on top of the pan removal and filter replacement. I mainly wanted to clean the pan and clean the magnets. That cannot be done without removing the pan. If the filter is of the metal strainer type then perhaps it's best to just leave it alone. It wouldn't hurt to change it but it is $80 at my discounted prices to do the pan gasket, filter and filter o-ring.

The brake fluid was kept up in the Lexus service records by the dealer but I can do that again. It's easy as pie with my MityVac 7201.

The manual shows the coolant to be replaced at 100k and the plugs at 120k. My radiator does have an every so slight hairline crack at the rectangle boss on the upper plastic tank where they like to crack. Mine is every so slight. You can barely see anything. My water pump is dry from what all I can see under it with a mirror and light. The only crusty's I can find is a faint pink film visible under the intake manifold from the heat exchanger. Fun fun...

Ok that could be. My radiator was done at 76k so a 2 gallon coolant flush was part of the work.

I'd do the radiator. Read the radiator PSA thread if you need convincing. Unlike the water pump which is a slow leak, you'll have the hairline crack for a bit and then one day it'll blow. Sometimes it's a small spray and you can drive it home, othertimes it's a big bess. I suppose if you only drive local and don't mind calling a tow truck if it goes you could wait, but once you see the crack it might be 5 miles or 15,000 but it's days are numbered.

If you have pink stuff on the intake manifold, that may be the dreaded valley plate leak.

Engine valley plate leak

I am looking at a LX570 to possibly purchase and this is in the Lexus service history: MECHANICAL LABOR--FOUND ENGINE VALLEY PLATE LEAKING LVL 3 DOWN TO TRANSMISSION PAN. RECOMMEND RESEALING PLATE AT THIS TIME. **NOTE: PLATE IS BELOW INTAKE MANIFOLD ~|~ ~|~87970 600 REMOVED, CLEANED AND...

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This post has a parts list. Looks like $100 in parts, but one dealer quoted 11 hours of labor in this thread:

Kind of "Mystery" Coolant leak back of engine (heat exchanger valley leak)

Just finished full disassembly of this job... All I can say is that if you have been fortunate not to have this leak thus far, your in for a real treat when it does happen... It's like a PHH job on fzj's on steroids... Ha.. it's not really technical, just a bunch of hard to reach bolts...

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