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- #21
I'll be inspecting mine...when I swap the DS DT header out in a week or two...
100-Series Suspension
- Thread starter spressomon
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- #23
Yes...first gen passenger side cracked at the weld...but Nick replaced them both with the new SS version. The driver's side is fine but I figured since I'm overdue on my 2nd 90k I'd go ahead and swap the DS header out at the same time. I need to get going on this while I still have my garage 
I'd appreciate keeping this bit of info in here please.
I'd appreciate keeping this bit of info in here please.
I have a standard I go by in here: What's said in the Guild, stays in the Guild. Just my own way of doing things. Of course you guys can do as you wish, but one of my intentions for this place was for us to have conversation amongst ourselves we might not have in the fora.
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- #26
Well...given I'm right at 8,000lbs (even if some 100 forum members don't believe it 
) and when I added the DT headers a couple years ago apart of the original group buy I had well over 100,000 miles driving this rig (i.e. I know this rig very, very well) I immediately noticed better lower rpm response...not much in the middle rpm band...and then a nice boost in the upper rpm ranges.
They say to feel power differences in the seat of the pants it has to, all things being equal, be at least 25hp real world gain and probably a bit more for a tactile register to the driver.
Now...this is at 5,000' AND ~8,000lbs! At sea level the improvement in hp and torque response was very noticeable. And the difference with a closer to stock GVW rig would be even more noticeable.
In the world of cost-benefit analysis I'm not sure, especially if you can't do the install yourself, if its a simple say of "go for it" or not. Having said that I have zero regrets. And I wholeheartedly recommend Nick and DT for their way above board post-sale support!
And if you have leaky/cracked OEM headers then the answer is simple/no brainer: Get them!
) and when I added the DT headers a couple years ago apart of the original group buy I had well over 100,000 miles driving this rig (i.e. I know this rig very, very well) I immediately noticed better lower rpm response...not much in the middle rpm band...and then a nice boost in the upper rpm ranges.They say to feel power differences in the seat of the pants it has to, all things being equal, be at least 25hp real world gain and probably a bit more for a tactile register to the driver.
Now...this is at 5,000' AND ~8,000lbs! At sea level the improvement in hp and torque response was very noticeable. And the difference with a closer to stock GVW rig would be even more noticeable.
In the world of cost-benefit analysis I'm not sure, especially if you can't do the install yourself, if its a simple say of "go for it" or not. Having said that I have zero regrets. And I wholeheartedly recommend Nick and DT for their way above board post-sale support!
And if you have leaky/cracked OEM headers then the answer is simple/no brainer: Get them!
Dude 8000 lbs? No wonder you're always going through bearings etc... Have you thought to just swap in a military axle in the back, and maybe sfa as well in the front to cope with that kind of weight? 
Maybe try to convert Hummer suspension to your Cruiser lol
Maybe try to convert Hummer suspension to your Cruiser lol
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- #28
Dana 60 with GM 14B outers...I just need to spend some time figuring it out. Duramax guys are getting over 1/2 million miles out of those outers...so I think I'll be fine.
And yes...I firmly believe my rear bearing/seal issues stem from eclipsing what Toyota originally intended for the 100-Series. Having said that there are more than a casual few guys that have and are experiencing the same issue with the rear axle system on their 100/470s!
Kinda funny...knocking on wood...the IFS gets everyone all worked up. But I've had far more problems with the rear axle system and has cost me more too!
And yes...I firmly believe my rear bearing/seal issues stem from eclipsing what Toyota originally intended for the 100-Series. Having said that there are more than a casual few guys that have and are experiencing the same issue with the rear axle system on their 100/470s!
Kinda funny...knocking on wood...the IFS gets everyone all worked up. But I've had far more problems with the rear axle system and has cost me more too!
Knock on wood, but I have had my Cruiser loaded down for years with and no issues. No lift here though yet. The 34" tires I am running seem to work fine on the stock ride for now. Too many real world things to deal with that prevent me from doing what I want to the vehicle. Anyway, my 2nd row seats are back up for the first time in maybe 4 years after hauling a lot of stuff in there after the divorce of my 1st wife. My Cruiser is breathing a little sigh of relief at the moment
Plans-
Dual Battery System
Fridge/Freezer
Later-
ARBs front and rear.
Plans-
Dual Battery System
Fridge/Freezer
Later-
ARBs front and rear.
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- #30
Revelation...no explanation
So...
Years ago I installed the 1" body lift. Raised the body about 1-1/8" to provide just enough lift clearance for the 1" pucks, without any resistance at that height. Any higher than ~1-1/8" and I had resistance that I assumed were the mystery bolts and/or steering shaft limits. At any rate I didn't feel I needed to alter either.
Then a year or two later I installed the first gen DT headers. And, of course, the DS engine mount bolts and nut get removed along with the steering shaft. After the headers were installed everything went back together without issue.
Fast forward to installing the new DT SS warranty replacement headers within the past month. Same install story on the DS but this time it was obvious the steering coupler/steering shaft was not long enough. So I fabbed a 19mm spacer out of some scrap 6061 I had and now have plenty of shaft splines to coupler splines overlap/interface.
But here's where it gets fuzzy: Prior to the steering spacer steering feel, even with the ~4* of caster I have it set to (custom upper arms), it exhibited somewhat light and easy steering.
Now with the 19mm spacer in place the steering is more typical of what you'd think by adding 1.5* caster over OEM: Heavier, smoother...actually mobetta on the highway. However I can't explain why!
FWIW: The rag joint probably was deformed by only 1/4" before adding the spacer.
A mystery.
So...
Years ago I installed the 1" body lift. Raised the body about 1-1/8" to provide just enough lift clearance for the 1" pucks, without any resistance at that height. Any higher than ~1-1/8" and I had resistance that I assumed were the mystery bolts and/or steering shaft limits. At any rate I didn't feel I needed to alter either.
Then a year or two later I installed the first gen DT headers. And, of course, the DS engine mount bolts and nut get removed along with the steering shaft. After the headers were installed everything went back together without issue.
Fast forward to installing the new DT SS warranty replacement headers within the past month. Same install story on the DS but this time it was obvious the steering coupler/steering shaft was not long enough. So I fabbed a 19mm spacer out of some scrap 6061 I had and now have plenty of shaft splines to coupler splines overlap/interface.
But here's where it gets fuzzy: Prior to the steering spacer steering feel, even with the ~4* of caster I have it set to (custom upper arms), it exhibited somewhat light and easy steering.
Now with the 19mm spacer in place the steering is more typical of what you'd think by adding 1.5* caster over OEM: Heavier, smoother...actually mobetta on the highway. However I can't explain why!
FWIW: The rag joint probably was deformed by only 1/4" before adding the spacer.
A mystery.
So I got the truck back! I'll post more info and some thoughts once I have a few moments but the overall impression is that they did a fantastic job. It feels solid, all of the body gaps are good on first inspection, and the custom work they did was all way above and beyond expectations. The truck's alignment is squirley, and I immediately noticed that the tbars are WAAAY to high. I measured 24.5" from the center of the hub to the lower lip of the fender with the 1" BL. My recollection is that I should be in the 22.5-23" (including BL) range with minimum 60mm of droop? I'm taking it back for a realignment tomorrow.
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- #32
FWIW: My front center hub to lower lip of fender is currently set at 22" (actual measurement).
Broke a rear fox 2.0 piggyback. Was used when I got it Nd has endured 2.5 years of hard use. Wasn't really right for the application.
Looking at the 2.5" Fox when they come out, Slee, or King......
Looking at the 2.5" Fox when they come out, Slee, or King......
Negative. 35s lots of flex. Dunno.
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- #36
You just discovered the problem with pin style upper mounts
Would a pivot unibal style be better for the application, like my Slee fronts? That has it's own series of issues like more maintenance , play and noise but seems like it would take nearly all the stress off the joint.
Note, Slees rear's and indeed his new fronts do not have the uniball. He was receiving too many complaints.
Are other manufacturers producing acceptable shocks?
Note, Slees rear's and indeed his new fronts do not have the uniball. He was receiving too many complaints.
Are other manufacturers producing acceptable shocks?
Problem with all suspensions is the cost vs benefit factor..... to get it right the cost goes up and 90% wont pay it.
Jon, I think you run your truck hard enough to write this off as expected. Nothing is ever going to be perfect for our needs.... s*** breaks.... to get to where "I" think you want to be... you need a really custom suspension build. At that point you have to ask is a 100 really going to get us there.....
Or maybe we just need more pics of rigs with 35's.... without how to get there....lol.
Jon, I think you run your truck hard enough to write this off as expected. Nothing is ever going to be perfect for our needs.... s*** breaks.... to get to where "I" think you want to be... you need a really custom suspension build. At that point you have to ask is a 100 really going to get us there.....
Or maybe we just need more pics of rigs with 35's.... without how to get there....lol.
I'll probably just slap some Slee's on it and call it good.
Your post made me smile. Thanks. 35s.
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- #40
Jon2 hit the nail on the head. The pin style is fine for OEM like suspension articulation but once we move to "L" shock territory, assuming properly bump stopped, etc., the additional angle at either limit puts additional strain/side loading on the pin mount.
If you are capable of cutting and welding one could replicate what I've done for the rear shocks. Its certainly not a 1-day dealio but I've been 100% pleased with the results. It permits eye style mounts for the shocks, moves them to the rear where they are much more protected from gravel spray, etc.. While you're at it...might as well throw in a real rear axle system
My original Fox shocks had a #8 size spherical bearing for the mounts. They would have been fine on a Prius but I had Glenn make my Radflos with #12 bearings and they have proven reliable and maintenance free for 2-years. One of these bearings has just the slightest amount of play...but at ~8klbs and too many miles of fast trail work to recount I'm perfectly fine with it. The #8's only would last 4-6 months!
If you are capable of cutting and welding one could replicate what I've done for the rear shocks. Its certainly not a 1-day dealio but I've been 100% pleased with the results. It permits eye style mounts for the shocks, moves them to the rear where they are much more protected from gravel spray, etc.. While you're at it...might as well throw in a real rear axle system
My original Fox shocks had a #8 size spherical bearing for the mounts. They would have been fine on a Prius
but I had Glenn make my Radflos with #12 bearings and they have proven reliable and maintenance free for 2-years. One of these bearings has just the slightest amount of play...but at ~8klbs and too many miles of fast trail work to recount I'm perfectly fine with it. The #8's only would last 4-6 months!