100-Series Suspension

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spressomon

glutton
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I thought I'd put this all suspension encompassing thread on its own.

First: I keep thinking about the Radflo clanking. Originally with my Fox shocks I used limiting straps to control the maximum suspension droop out; in 2007 the suspension landscape for 100's, outside of OME, was mostly wide-open frontier without any direct bolt on solutions. This proved futile, regardless of strap brand or strap layers, as the strap would eventually stretch in relatively quick and unreliable order. Yet another example of something that works for a race or three but not so reliable for us back-country explorers looking for less maintenance as well as reliable and consistent performance without the constant attention...

Although I still run limiting straps up front they're mostly now serve as a back-up system for full droop and to slow/ease the abrupt force that can, sometimes, hit the front suspension when quick full droop happens. However the straps are not the first line, nor the only, line of 'droop defense'. In their new role they've worked out perfectly and quietly I might add. I also, after exacerbating experiences with the stock and all too small for this application #8 spherical bearings converted to urethane upper and lower shock mounts...again something I had to learn on my own.

I cycled the suspension measuring exactly where the shock needed to stop traveling to protect the ball joints, mainly the UCA ball joint, in droop mode. Of course while cycling the front suspension I did make sure the shock was not serving as the compression limiter...but rather the LCA bump stops.

After making the measurement for the shock in droop I had a delrin/UHMWP "puck made" to the matching measure. This puck sits internal to the shock and on the shock shaft. When the shock gets to the limit point this delrin spacer serves as the travel stop.

Because its plastic and not metal this puck damps sound. And along with the limit straps serving to buffer the shock of full droop it has served me perfectly.

So when I hear about the Radflo's clanking I assume Glenn is using an aluminum spacer internal to the shock for droop limit?

And I wonder, given some of the other shenanigans I've seen from MetalTech, if they're original suspension cycling and/or shock measurements provided to Glenn were as accurate as they needed to be? And/or like a few other areas of our LC's I've found to be inconsistent from year to year of our 100's maybe this is yet another variable Toyota tolerance that needs to be checked on each rig rather than assumed.

I can not over-stress, once you deviate from OEM and OME shocks, and into racing style shocks to thoroughly cycle your suspension to obtain first hand knowledge of where your suspension limits are and what will take the hit...if not the bump stops.

There seems to be great resistance from certainly the 100-Series folks but also the casual/first timer 80-Series folks too in cycling their truck's suspension. It does take about 1/2 day to do it right and it certainly isn't rocket science...but there is a reluctance, even amongst the guys that are having suspension issues, to do this fundamental data gather for their LC!

This would be a good article for Stan (paflytyer) to work on for a multi-issue article for the TLCA rag...he and I have discussed it now we just to make it happen.
 
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Regarding the Radflo - From what I have gathered it seems to be only with the non-remote res shocks. And yes they supposedly have an internal aluminum spacer.

The only problem I have had with my Radflo's was when I first received them. I was one of the first to get a set after they came to market. Metaltech in their infinite wisdom, decided to have Glen install shorter hoses to the remote can AND install a 90 degree fitting into the bottom of the remote res... All without testing to see it it actually worked or not.

It seems like a good idea at first glance, but the 90 degree fitting required the shocks to be set up side specific, which was never done. So, I had to loosen the fittings and move things around. That also meant I had to go out and get my own Nitrogen charging set-up.... Then because the hose was SO short and because of the piss poor mounting bracket they sent out with them, There was no way they could be mounted in a way that didnt rub.

When Raflo first heard I was having issues, they totally took care of me. I sent them back to Glen, he rebuilt them, changed out the hoses and fittings to the standard length they come in now AND sent me a set of the remote res mounts they use for the 4runners. They did all this for free (I just had to pay shipping). Other than that I have been 100% happy with them. They are a little harsh for street driving around here. But Man.... Offroad! I have never been happier!!!!

It is really disappointing that SO many are unhappy with them and feel as if they are being blown off by Radflo. But, I think Glen and Mike are being honest with them. It is the way the non-remote shock works.

Other than the little popping sounds i am getting right now I am happy with everything. If the popping turns out to be my TC UCA's, I will more than likely replace them with either OEM or Slee's if those ever come about. Slee's do look promising..... But, I am looking for little to no maintenance at this point.
 
I put OEM UCAs in at 180k. The cam bolt for alignment was frozen inside the arm, had to cut the bolt at the bushing and get it out that way. Stupid NY salt. As much as expensive shocks would be nice for ride quality, I really like the zero maintenance. Ok sorry, I replaced 2 $5 lower bushings on the rear shocks last year.
 
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They are a little harsh for street driving around here. But Man.... Offroad! I have never been happier!!!!


Have you experimented with lower nitrogen pressure? Try 100-150psi and you should detect a more compliant ride for the street.
 
I've thought about it. But, as soon as I get more than 5 miles from the house, the roads improve and so does my impression. Being a stay at home dad for the last two years, I never went very far. Now, I am working again and enjoying the ride more.

Trade-off at this point isn't great enough... BTW. When I talked with Radflo back when i first got them, they come set at 150psi....
 
rear anti-sway bar...done in on the Rincon

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OK Spresso, looks like my rear UCA bushings are blown out again. Was barely starting to notice something driving west, but now that I've gone a few hundred more miles and it's mainly been on the straight roads here I suspect I'm feeling that same handling issue I did back in 2010. Pulls on accel from dead stop, either way it wants depending on the intersection and doesn't respond to small steering inputs like it would have just a month ago. Have we(you) figured out a better solution or, should I just grab a pair of arms for real low cheap while I'm back in NY and have Fletcher Jones swap em again?
 
IMO every other type of control bushing is a bigger compromise than the OEM. Stay away from Johnny Joints, urethane bushings, tie rod end style ends, etc. if you want some semblance of vibe damping, quite running and/or maintenance free performance.

Actually there is one that has me intrigued...Metalcloak Duroflex Joint. But I'm burnt on fawking with more aftermarket crap...

I'm surprised you've blown through another set at ~3 yrs old. Hopefully the mounting nuts/bolts just need to be tightened. And, you probably already know this, after you install the arms don't tighten them down with the suspension in droop mode...but rather when the rig is sitting on the ground.
 
So Loud: What's the story on your rear UCAs/wander issue?
 
Welllll....west side of las vegas has some roundabout/traffic circles soooo I kinda dove into one because I didnt feel like braking and the truck severely understeered and barely made it through. I am beginning to think it's my right front shock is blown because when I do the bounce test at a light it seems like that side dips more and the truck seems to bounce more than I seem to remember.

Question, would a blown shock cause a similar wander issue under accel/decel? The rear end seems more solid over bumps, and as with you I dont really like to slow down for bumps. The guys who build Slees shocks would not stop bothering me about getting them when we went out to the SS300, told em I'd put a couple matte black ADS stickers on if I could get a buy one get three discount...haven't heard back. :lol:
 
A non-functioning shock may contribute to your symptom...especially at the speeds you fly :flipoff2:

Given I've now had both front and rear anti-sway bars break I'd suggest checking those also...although you surely would have heard clunking if either were snapped.
 
Speaking of anti-sway bars: The new rear OEM replacement anti-sway bar has tighter bends than my original ASB. Strange why they went to tighter radius bends...to enhance fatigue I guess :rolleyes:

LC100 rear anti-sway bar.webp
 
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I hear an odd metallic click type noise when turning right under acceleration. But I didn't notice either ASB broken when I looked underneath the other day.

Looked at the bushings on the UCAs and they didn't look all rotted and pulling apart like the old ones(which happened to still be in storage here, haha).
 
Probably not it but RustyDan had a Bilstein shock, that came with his '98, that had a broken top stud IIRC...might check to be sure the shock hasn't blown a seal #1 and its still in one piece #2
 
What's the story with the 1" body lift the guy is sellin on the 100 threads? He posted a couple of pics of some spacers and brackets, but the brackets look like sheet metal. Anyone seen this in person? WTH took so long for someone to produce a body lift, and why not Dan? Too busy fixin his own junk I guess :D
 
My interest in mods is on the front end...the design end. I don't have a fully equipped machine shop so outsourcing pushes the price envelope out of reasonable volume unit movement or reasonable ROI. And my OCD gets in the way of pulling back to a price point.

Maxxmaven has a shop, does some mfg, so its easier for him to get this stuff to the masses. He's a good business man from the standpoint he designs and mfgs to a price point. Whereas price was near the last priority for my consideration...that's my OCD handicap! Design, materials and fabrication take higher priority with the stuff I make than price; and this rarely works out very well as a profit centered business model. It all starts with my own rig and the accessories/parts/mods I need...not necessarily what others need/want.

Again...I'm not doing this for a business but rather a glorified hobby to help a few others out until someone like Maxxmaven takes over...

I think he offers very good value for what he's offering.
 
Other than the little popping sounds i am getting right now I am happy with everything. If the popping turns out to be my TC UCA's, I will more than likely replace them with either OEM or Slee's if those ever come about. Slee's do look promising..... But, I am looking for little to no maintenance at this point.

So me and my trusted Mechanic spent some time yesterday trying to figure out the popping sounds I was getting in my front end. To our surprise... It appears to be coming from my skid plates. We followed the sounds while one was in the truck off camber and it got us to that area near the belly plate. We noticed signs of rubbing. Put a piece of cardboard between the two parts rubbing and no more sound..... I would have never suspected that location. I will probably pull all the skids in the next week or so, clean them up/touch up rock scars, etc. Drive around for a week or two to make sure the pop is gone and then put an adhesive backed high density rubber between the rub spots and see if that does the trick.
 
My tcase was smacking my belly pan making a loud noise, it was the engine mount that was split in half that was causing it.

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