100 series modification for Looks

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This wire tap is not a cut off but a trigger. By tapping into the high beam your giving the relay a 12v trigger to activate the lights.

This means that the lights you're installing will not work unless the high beams are on. My personal recommendation is to tie them into the parking or marker lights, this way you do not have operate the high beams in order to operate the lights on the rack. Ultimately all you are doing is giving the relay a 12v trigger to complete the circuit, the relay will handle all the juice. This 12v trigger can come from any 12v source, high beam, low beam, parking light, battery, ignition, etc. It just depends on how you want the lights to operate.
 
This wire tap is not a cut off but a trigger. By tapping into the high beam your giving the relay a 12v trigger to activate the lights.

This means that the lights you're installing will not work unless the high beams are on. My personal recommendation is to tie them into the parking or marker lights, this way you do not have operate the high beams in order to operate the lights on the rack. Ultimately all you are doing is giving the relay a 12v trigger to complete the circuit, the relay will handle all the juice. This 12v trigger can come from any 12v source, high beam, low beam, parking light, battery, ignition, etc. It just depends on how you want the lights to operate.

I don't get it. Why would the OEM fogs turn off when the HB is active and the add on fogs only work when the HBs are on. You don't use your HBs in the fog so that would mean that you couldn't use your fogs in the fog.

Am I missing something?
 
I don't get it. Why would the OEM fogs turn off when the HB is active and the add on fogs only work when the HBs are on. You don't use your HBs in the fog so that would mean that you couldn't use your fogs in the fog.

Am I missing something?


OEM fogs turn off when HBs are on because Toyota assumes you are not driving in fog with your HBs on, which can be dangerous. So it's sort of an electronic nanny, you can either have one or the other, not both at the same time. Aux driving lights would be wired to the HB circuit, and obviously aux fog lights would be wired to the fog circuit for triggering.

As to why you're triggering your aux IPF lights with your HB circuit, well, based on what you wrote and where you're mounting the lights (roof rack), everyone assumed that these are aux driving lights, NOT fog lights. You wouldn't mount fog lights to a roof rack, they'd be just about useless up there. So if they are actually driving lights, NOT fogs, then what we've written here is correct and you'd want to trip them with the HB circuit. But if these IPF lights are actually fog lights instead, with a fog beam pattern, then you might as well just unmount them from the roof rack right now. Unless they're just for "looks" too, in which case who cares how they're wired up, since they won't work anyway! :flipoff2:
 
Comparing the factory wiring harness and an after market wiring harness is like comparing apples to oranges, they are simply not the same.

Most factory fog lights are set to only function with the low beams, because you are after a low widespread light that helps you see in foul weather. High beams are suited for driving where you can get an advantage from a higher brighter longer distance light, therefore the fogs do not operate with high beams.

Most auto manufacturers design there head light / fog light wiring harnesses in this manner for the obvious reasons above, as well as most states with an inspection require the fogs to operate with the low beams and any driving lights to operate with the high beams.
 
That makes sense.

What I NEED these for is breaking down camp after sunset after a day of shooting so I'd really like to activate them all by themselves. For me they're not intended for driving, but for base camp set up (before sunrise) and tear down (after sunset).

Where do I plug that yellow wire with the fuse so I can activate them without dependence on any of my other lights?
 
Here's MOD pics. I've installed the ARB: Bull Bar, Roof Rack, OME 133 & 101 Shocks, OME 866 rear springs, OME Tbars, & 6 IPF lights (bull bar lights wired into factory fog switch (55w), and RR lights to be wired on their own switches).

Here's before and after:
20070730-082430[1].webp
20070918-100433[3].webp
 
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Since this is for looks only, you need to line up those lights on the roof rack. They are all crooked :D

PS, still never seen a safari truck like this. You need to add some leopard skin wrap to qualify :D

From Wikipedia,

A safari (IPA pronunciation: [səˌfɑri]) is an overland journey. It usually refers to a trip by tourists to Africa, traditionally for a big-game hunt and in more modern times to watch and photograph big game and other wildlife as a safari holiday. There is a certain theme or style associated with the word, which includes khaki clothing, belted bush jackets, pith helmets or slouch hats, and animal skins — like leopard's skin.
 
Do not forget the slee sticker otherwise you will look like a POSER!
 
Since this is for looks only, you need to line up those lights on the roof rack. They are all crooked :D

PS, still never seen a safari truck like this. You need to add some leopard skin wrap to qualify :D

From Wikipedia,

A safari (IPA pronunciation: [səˌfɑri]) is an overland journey. It usually refers to a trip by tourists to Africa, traditionally for a big-game hunt and in more modern times to watch and photograph big game and other wildlife as a safari holiday. There is a certain theme or style associated with the word, which includes khaki clothing, belted bush jackets, pith helmets or slouch hats, and animal skins — like leopard's skin.

Yea, the far passenger side light is cooked a bit. I'll work on it. The others line up, but that one kinda throws off the whole row.

Yea leopard skin. I was thinking of doing the interior in black leather and leopard skin seats! Just kidding.

We've got our Pith Helmets ready. (kidding again)

If you've never been to Oregon, it's a pretty amazing place. Our next safari will start in the volcanic mountain evergreen rain forrest of Mt. Hood and work down the mountain range into the high desert for desert volcanic mountain range photography such as Oregon's original crater with a lake in it Paulina Lake. Tons of wildlife on this trip: Bald Eagles, Brown Bears, Rattle Snakes, Deer, Elk, Heron, etc. And this is "Wild" wildlife, not "Animal Park" wildlife.

Plus in Oregon you don't have to deal with passports, malaria or civil wars.
 
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
110zebra.jpg


This is a bit more "safari-ish". Of course IMO !![/FONT]
;)
 
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Tap that wire direct to the battery, this will allow you to use the lights anytime.

Wouldn't that blow the fuse in the yellow wire? Doesn't it need to go through something to regulate the elect?
 
Nope. The fuse is there to protect the rest of the harness, relay, etc., if a short were to occur or a surge. If you tap into the hot side of the high beam, low beam, parking light, etc., etc., you are still going to get 12v.
 
Nope. The fuse is there to protect the rest of the harness, relay, etc., if a short were to occur or a surge. If you tap into the hot side of the high beam, low beam, parking light, etc., etc., you are still going to get 12v.

Great. Thanks for the info. I'll get to work on it.
 
I'm trying to get the aux roof rack lights straightened up and I'm having a hard time.

When I went to install them, I called ARB and the same guy who told me they don't make roof racks for USA LCs told me to cut holes in the metal wind guard and mount the lights there. The trouble is that there's only one place that the lights will fit (only one place to cut the hole) and it's near the ridge where the wind deflector angles down. There was no other place to cut the holes since theres already a large half hole (I'm guessing for wires) that prevents cutting any closer to the outside.

Since I have absolutely no confidence in ARB USA since they said their RRs don't fit USA LCs and they do, I'm second guessing mounting the lights there. Not sure how else to mount them.

Anyone have any experience with ARB RR/IPF Light combo? Can't imagine I'm the only one out there who bought this stuff.

I'm going to try swapping out the light swivel from the bumper lights with the crooked RR light.
 
D110 are the pinnacle, to be sure, but also so overpriced over here for what you get in return.

If only I could take a safari into the forest where money grows on trees...

D110. What a killer platform for an expo truck!
 

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