100 series modification for Looks

[hoser]

Just FYI, 98-99 LX's had the longer OEM roof rack (with 6 legs). 2000+ LX's had the shorter roof rack (with 4 legs) for less wind noise. I believe all US LC100's had the longer 6 legged racks (if equipped).

LX with spoke wheels is a 2000. LX with chrome wheels is a '98.

 

[spressomon]

Just FYI, 98-99 LX's had the longer OEM roof rack (with 6 legs). 2000+ LX's had the shorter roof rack (with 4 legs) for less wind noise. I believe all US LC100's had the longer 6 legged racks (if equipped).

LX with spoke wheels is a 2000. LX with chrome wheels is a '98.

You are the master of LC/LX details!

 

[hoser]

Hehe...

So Dwon, if your 100 indeed has the 2nd set of rack holes and you are able to use them, you could probably get the '00+ Lexus black roof trimming for a stock finish.

 

[Dwon]

I peeked under the trim and there are holes where the ARB rack needs them so all I have to do now is get the trim off and cut a hole in it and I'm set! I can use the trim plug from the center post in the vacant front post hole and I'm in great shape.

Thanks everyone for all your help I really appreciate it.

I noticed there's a mechanism in there for releasing the gutter trim. (gutter trim, that describes my first girlfriend ) (sorry couldn't help myself).

LCGEEK do you have any photos that show those gutter mechanisms so I can figure out how to unlock the trim without ruining it (man, it's hard to say trim and not giggle).

I know this will work if I'm careful. I'll keep you posted.

Tomorrow the rear suspension.

 

[Dwon]

Just FYI, 98-99 LX's had the longer OEM roof rack (with 6 legs). 2000+ LX's had the shorter roof rack (with 4 legs) for less wind noise. I believe all US LC100's had the longer 6 legged racks (if equipped).

LX with spoke wheels is a 2000. LX with chrome wheels is a '98.

My LC has the legs where the bottom one has them and the ARB rack wants them where the top one's are.

 

[lcgeek]

LCGEEK do you have any photos that show those gutter mechanisms so I can figure out how to unlock the trim without ruining it (man, it's hard to say trim and not giggle).

Sorry I can't be more helpful with your gutter trim. When I ripped mine off I did not pay much attention to how it fit in. Since the AO rack has a full new rail...I trashed the trim and threw it away without pics. I did not notice any conspicuous release mechanisms...seemed like the gutter trim was just tightly wedged into the slot....I am sure one of the gutter trim experts will chime in and straighten this out

 

[OGBeno]

Interesting thread. The 100 section always has the drama. ;p

I think to hell with what people think--do what you want. It's your rig arkadaş...



çok enteresan bir kamyon yapılış....iyi şanslar...

-onur
Corrales, NM

 

[Dwon]

Interesting thread. The 100 section always has the drama. ;p

I think to hell with what people think--do what you want. It's your rig arkadaş...



çok enteresan bir kamyon yapılış....iyi şanslar...

-onur
Corrales, NM

I wish I could still speak Turkish. I got about half of what you said. My first name is really spelled Dogan (can't put the little squiggle on top of my G). PM me.

 

[Dwon]

IT WORKED!!!
I took off the gutter trim very very carefully using a tiny flat head and peice of cardboard to keep the paint nice. There's several plastic brackets that each have two little fragile arms on the outside and two larger catches on the inside. If you slide the flat head into the near groove between the trim and body and gently pry it up you can see the brackets and safely push on each of the arms to release them. Eventually it will pop free.

I took it and measured where the new hole should be. I drilled four little holes in the corners of where the new hole will be, then four bigger holes. Then I used a pair of tin snips to cut out the hole. Looks like retarded monkey on crack did it, but it worked! Then I put the old gutter plug from the center space in the first space.

The new legs on the front fit ALMOST perfectly. They're off by about 1/2" so they had to be twisted a bit to tighten the top bolts before tightening the leg bolts.

Important thing is that now it's on!!!

I'm still calling 4x4 to beetch!

Tomorrow I'm finishing the lift with the rear suspension and getting an alignment! Then I'll post images!

 

[Dwon]

If you're getting an ARB roof rack ask them to complete the install kit by including a 2000 LX gutter trim. Also ask for a set of 12 longer gutter bolts since the factory bolts aren't long enough.

 

[Dwon]

I just finished the rear springs and shocks. WOW! Not complicated at all, but really really tedious!

I followed the instructions from this post

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=49190&highlight=installing+shocks

I didn't do it exactly the way he explained because I've heard from everyone how big a beetch it is to loosen the rear shocks.

I positioned the open end wrench at the top and used the strap wrench to turn the shock and loosen the nut. It worked great! I just recommend cleaning the carp out of the shocks with dish soap and water to get all the muck off and the strap wrench. I shot the nut every day for a couple days with PB spray and today before beginning.

It took me about 5 hours to change out the shocks and springs. The springs went fine, but tightening the shocks took FOREVER. I wish my 1 year old could operate a wrench cause there's barely enough room for him to get in there let alone a grown male. WOW!

Everything in this build is very doable, but I don't really ever want to have to tighten those top Shock nuts ever again. That really sucked!

I'm off to get the rig aligned and I'll post pics as soon as it stops raining.

 

[Dwon]

I talked to 4x4 Connection today and they said they'd try to get me a set of 2000 LX gutter strips to make things right with me. We'll see.

 

[macneill]

Yawwwwwwwwwwnnnnnnn... there are more pix of Shotts' rig than the "buildup."

 

[Dwon]

I've installed everything so now I need to hook up the roof rack IPF lights.

I'm a little hesitant to tap into the High Beam wire like the instructions say. Anyone have any experience with IPF lights and tapping the High Beam wire?

 

[hoser]

No experience but if you are tapping into the high beams, you are going to need a relay (for trigger) and power the IPF's straight from the battery.

 

[dclee]

I've installed everything so now I need to hook up the roof rack IPF lights.

I'm a little hesitant to tap into the High Beam wire like the instructions say. Anyone have any experience with IPF lights and tapping the High Beam wire?

Just tap the high beam circuit to trigger a dedicated relay for the aux lights, which will actually be fed power direct from the battery. I would not draw power directly from the existing high beam circuit.

 

[joff]

Doesn't look like a trek rig to me

You must have funny people living up your way if that gets em wet

 

[Dwon]

Just tap the high beam circuit to trigger a dedicated relay for the aux lights, which will actually be fed power direct from the battery. I would not draw power directly from the existing high beam circuit.

The wiring loom has a yellow wire with a fuse in it that is supposed to tap into the actual high beam wire using an "Electro-Tap". This wire goes from the high beam wire to the switch harness so I'm thinking it's a cut-off to keep the lights from running when the high beams are on, like with the front factory fogs.

The whole wiring loom feeds off the battery so there's no worries there, but I really don't want to tap the high beam wire.

How do I get the same results using the High Beam Circuit? Could that blow the HB circuit?

I've got four 100 watt lights.

 

[dclee]

The wiring loom has a yellow wire with a fuse in it that is supposed to tap into the actual high beam wire using an "Electro-Tap". This wire goes from the high beam wire to the switch harness so I'm thinking it's a cut-off to keep the lights from running when the high beams are on, like with the front factory fogs.

The whole wiring loom feeds off the battery so there's no worries there, but I really don't want to tap the high beam wire.

How do I get the same results using the High Beam Circuit? Could that blow the HB circuit?

I've got four 100 watt lights.

At least in the state of California, you are required to wire your aux lights so that they cannot be turned on unless the high beams are also on. That is probably what they are doing with that setup.

There really shouldn't be any problems with tapping the HB wire (I used "wire" and "circuit" as equivalents in my previous statement). You're really just using it to get the "signal" from the HB circuit to use in the activation of your aux lights.

BTW, I would avoid the "Electro-tap" if at all possible. Just splice and solder and use some good waterproof shrink-wrap, or 100-MPH tape, or liquid electrical tape, or some combination to seal it up.

 

[EdsCruisin]

The wiring loom has a yellow wire with a fuse in it that is supposed to tap into the actual high beam wire using an "Electro-Tap". This wire goes from the high beam wire to the switch harness so I'm thinking it's a cut-off to keep the lights from running when the high beams are on, like with the front factory fogs.

The whole wiring loom feeds off the battery so there's no worries there, but I really don't want to tap the high beam wire.

How do I get the same results using the High Beam Circuit? Could that blow the HB circuit?

I've got four 100 watt lights.

The way you describe it sounds like the relay is included. That is all you need - nothing special. You tap the high beam wire for an electric trigger to the relay that connects the direct battery current to your lights. The relay draw from the high beam circuit is about nothing, and does not even need to be a large quage wire. The only way to have these lights dependent on the other lights in the truck will be to install a relay and tap a wire.

How about some updated pix?