- Thread starter
- #1,321
$200 less for Iron Man with drop versus loaded OME
Seems like too little money to lose sleep over.
Seems like too little money to lose sleep over.
100 Series General Tech and Classifieds
- Thread starter wngrog
- Start date
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SHUSH said:
Ha...that's a typo. That should read 'to put on a 2.5" IM lift' not 'I put on.'. Completely changed how my post reads...sorry bout that.
I spent a day doing exactly what you are doing now after my dealership told me the computer that controls my AHC went out. Thought I was going to have to rip it out and convert to traditional suspension. Turns out after a little reading on MUD that it was most likely only the rear sensor. Ordered a $250 sensor, put it on myself in 5 mins flat. Fixed the issue.
That being said, I was going to go with Ironman. Price was better, reviews were good, and I'm not a heavy wheeler. All those added up to saving the cash and putting on the IM.
I understand the research black hole you're in right now though...I went round and round for hours on end when I thought I was going to be doing the switch.
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Bomar
SILVER Star
The iron man lift I put on my 80 was nice...
OME is not what it was years ago...
OME is not what it was years ago...
Leaking CVs are not the end of the world and half the diff drop threads I read when I was first getting into my 100 said they still had cv leaks with the diff drops. The Aussies all seem to laugh at the idea of diff drops. Not saying its a bad idea, but I'd have to own a lot newer truck with much fewer miles to worry about it.
- Thread starter
- #1,326
My 2004 had them when I cranked the torsion bars with no diff drop, but my 2001 did not when I used the diff drop. My 2001 (at the time) was a low mileage truck and the CV boots could probably handle the change.
One thing to remember, the only thing you hurt with leaking CV's is if you let much leak out before you but a hose clamp on them to fix them
One thing to remember, the only thing you hurt with leaking CV's is if you let much leak out before you but a hose clamp on them to fix them
My 2004 had them when I cranked the torsion bars with no diff drop, but my 2001 did not when I used the diff drop. My 2001 (at the time) was a low mileage truck and the CV boots could probably handle the change.
One thing to remember, the only thing you hurt with leaking CV's is if you let much leak out before you but a hose clamp on them to fix them
Definitely keep an eye on them. Mine started leaking and I didn't realize it. I did clamp them but it was too late. I am going to have to replace mine. The OEM ones are like 350 a side.
This is blasphemy on the 100 site but I am gonna try the NAPA ones since they are around 300 for both. They come with a lifetime warranty. If they don't work, then I guess I will go back to OEM. Up till now, everything I have replaced has been OEM, but the cost difference is just too great here for me to justify in this instance.
- Thread starter
- #1,328
Yeah, as much as you drive yours....it will be 100 years before you get 150,000 more miles on it so I think NAPA is clearly the way to go.
Gonna study "clamping procedures" and cvs some more but I feel comfortable in saying IM 2 in is in my near future. Maybe install before crawl if its a group effort?
Bomar
SILVER Star
Go with Napa....and just replace under warranty as needed. If you were wheelin it hardcore then OEM but Napa's are good.
- Thread starter
- #1,331
Mud crazies will tell you hose clamps will put CVs out of balance.
Crazies
Crazies
I did the diff drop then a CV axle rebuild kit about 30-40K ago. Last time I looked it was not leaking.
I think the diff drop helped me but I actually wheeled mine. Mall cruisers probably not as big a deal.
When I did my cv rebuild we screwed up one of the OEM clamps and did a part store hose clamp on that side. It's working as good as the OEM one.
I think the diff drop helped me but I actually wheeled mine. Mall cruisers probably not as big a deal.
When I did my cv rebuild we screwed up one of the OEM clamps and did a part store hose clamp on that side. It's working as good as the OEM one.
the dumb question is the one not ask
I literally just read a post about that. How does it put them off balance? one guy was saying to off set this to put the screw for one on each side....am I interpreting that right....one little screw can throw it off balance just bc it's a moving/spinning part? doesn't make sense.
from what ive read hose clamps work just fine. So i think im gonna hold my breath, do the IM 2 inch kit and keep a close eye. If they start leaking ill clamp them, if that doesn't work a Napa rebuild kit like Martin would be next. My truck is 1500 shy of 200k so my cv boots are pretty "set" at their current angle. I anticipate leaking regardless of how much I flex/wheel it. does your old truck have OME 2.5 kit and diff drop kit?
I literally just read a post about that. How does it put them off balance? one guy was saying to off set this to put the screw for one on each side....am I interpreting that right....one little screw can throw it off balance just bc it's a moving/spinning part? doesn't make sense.
from what ive read hose clamps work just fine. So i think im gonna hold my breath, do the IM 2 inch kit and keep a close eye. If they start leaking ill clamp them, if that doesn't work a Napa rebuild kit like Martin would be next. My truck is 1500 shy of 200k so my cv boots are pretty "set" at their current angle. I anticipate leaking regardless of how much I flex/wheel it. does your old truck have OME 2.5 kit and diff drop kit?
Yes it does.
While I agree from a wearing out standpoint, my aftermarket CV axles (installed by the PO about 30K miles ago) vibrate....badly. There is a definite "rotational" noise and sound in the front end.
When I was talking to the guys at Slee about whether I could use OEM upper control arms with the lift I have (they said yes), they also stressed that only OEM CV axles should be used......because the aftermarket ones are more likely than not to vibrate.
I hate like crap to spend the money for OEM CV shafts, but that's one place where the money for Toyota parts seems to be well-spent.
- Thread starter
- #1,336
Greg used aftermarket. Wonder if his are out of whack?
where is the one legged man? yall sort this out before I buy a lift, run it 20k miles and have my cvs fail!!
I have some OEM CV that just need to be rebuilt with the kit that can be bought from CDAN.
Here's what mine look like 20k after using the AHC system to get a 1-1.5" lift. The grease is still thick and not soupy so I don't think they are contaminated, but their condition worries me.
Planning on getting both sides rebuilt soon, and new rotors while they are in there.
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Planning on getting both sides rebuilt soon, and new rotors while they are in there.
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
How big are the CV axles compared to the axles/birfields from solid axle truck?
