- Thread starter
- #4,521
It's no harder to put a lift in it than a LC. Just cap off the system.
Rock it till it fails.
Rock it till it fails.
100 Series General Tech and Classifieds (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter wngrog
- Start date
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Looks like she had a rough life
Tech question about my LS430....
It's basically a 100-series, so I'm not starting a new thread.
The dash is dead - all of it except the check engine light (which is not on). None of the gauges move or are lit up. I've checked every related fuse and have not found any blown ones.
I did find one fuse, that if I pull it out and put it back in, will make the dash work for either a few minutes of starting the car, turning off, repeat. Or it will last one trip, but as soon as you walk away from the car and come back, the dash is dead again.
This fuse is not blown. However, I swapped in a known good fuse for fun and have the same weird phenomenon.
Club Lexus says unplug the battery or reset the ECU, neither of which cured my problems.
Any ideas on what is going on?
It's basically a 100-series, so I'm not starting a new thread.
The dash is dead - all of it except the check engine light (which is not on). None of the gauges move or are lit up. I've checked every related fuse and have not found any blown ones.
I did find one fuse, that if I pull it out and put it back in, will make the dash work for either a few minutes of starting the car, turning off, repeat. Or it will last one trip, but as soon as you walk away from the car and come back, the dash is dead again.
This fuse is not blown. However, I swapped in a known good fuse for fun and have the same weird phenomenon.
Club Lexus says unplug the battery or reset the ECU, neither of which cured my problems.
Any ideas on what is going on?
2003
If the problem is in the dash, why would unplugging/re-plugging a fuse under the hood make it work briefly?
It's got me stumped.
If the problem is in the dash, why would unplugging/re-plugging a fuse under the hood make it work briefly?
It's got me stumped.
So here's the skinny on the new whip:
Since this will be my overlanding/light wheeling vehicle I wanted to go with the 98-99 years with the locking diffs. Plus, that's the vehicle I used to have and it's the only car I have ever regretted selling. Finding one of that vintage in good shape with less than 150k miles is a bit of a unicorn search. So, when I found the color I wanted in pretty good shape, I decided I would not let perfect be the enemy of pretty darn good. Also, when the owner of said 100 (a broker in Nashville) agreed to take my 60 on an even trade, and I didn't have to come out any money or suffer through the misery of selling an old land cruiser on Craigslist, I had to go for it.
Here's the good:
1) clean carfax; one owner, southern truck (North Carolina); body is in great shape and I love the color:
Interior is in good shape overall, although the faux paneling needs to be stripped and replaced:
Mileage is "pretty good" (11k per year").
The downsides: there is no body or frame rust, but there is a little surface rust on some of the underbody and suspension parts (being in North Carolina it probably saw some salt in its past life, but it's not bad). Also, I could not find a sticker where the timing belt had been replaced. Without such proof, I am assuming it hasn't and will do that. Also, the sunroof is stuck and when I went through the car wash yesterday it leaked a little. Oh, and it needs better tires.
Overall, I am happy with it. I drove it home 6.5 hours yesterday and it performed really well (nice smooth ride, steering, brakes, temps, cold a/c, no leaks or rattles, nice quiet ride, etc...).
Also, DNP assures me that he can make those running boards come off just by looking at them the wrong way.
Since this will be my overlanding/light wheeling vehicle I wanted to go with the 98-99 years with the locking diffs. Plus, that's the vehicle I used to have and it's the only car I have ever regretted selling. Finding one of that vintage in good shape with less than 150k miles is a bit of a unicorn search. So, when I found the color I wanted in pretty good shape, I decided I would not let perfect be the enemy of pretty darn good. Also, when the owner of said 100 (a broker in Nashville) agreed to take my 60 on an even trade, and I didn't have to come out any money or suffer through the misery of selling an old land cruiser on Craigslist, I had to go for it.
Here's the good:
1) clean carfax; one owner, southern truck (North Carolina); body is in great shape and I love the color:
Interior is in good shape overall, although the faux paneling needs to be stripped and replaced:
Mileage is "pretty good" (11k per year").
The downsides: there is no body or frame rust, but there is a little surface rust on some of the underbody and suspension parts (being in North Carolina it probably saw some salt in its past life, but it's not bad). Also, I could not find a sticker where the timing belt had been replaced. Without such proof, I am assuming it hasn't and will do that. Also, the sunroof is stuck and when I went through the car wash yesterday it leaked a little. Oh, and it needs better tires.
Overall, I am happy with it. I drove it home 6.5 hours yesterday and it performed really well (nice smooth ride, steering, brakes, temps, cold a/c, no leaks or rattles, nice quiet ride, etc...).
Also, DNP assures me that he can make those running boards come off just by looking at them the wrong way.
- Thread starter
- #4,530
180,000
That's a great baseline number to do it all.
Time to order a boat load of synthetic 90wt and come up.
That's a great baseline number to do it all.
Time to order a boat load of synthetic 90wt and come up.
- Thread starter
- #4,531
Just don't call me to help with the fake wood.
Damn that job.
Damn that job.
I have a heat gun when you tackle that job.
- Thread starter
- #4,533
As for the timing belt, I would love to know how many 2UZ's out there have 300K on them with the original belt. I bet you there are WAY WAY WAY more still rolling on high mileage belts than there are lost engines due to a broken timing belt.
I know if I was not an enthusiast, I would have a hard time swallowing a $2000 PMI bill when I took it into service. I am sure many people just tell the service manager to pack sand and keep driving.
I know if I was not an enthusiast, I would have a hard time swallowing a $2000 PMI bill when I took it into service. I am sure many people just tell the service manager to pack sand and keep driving.
- Thread starter
- #4,535
Damn, that is some seriously low miles
- Thread starter
- #4,536
And I actually like that front bumper....the rear, not so much or the wheels but DAMN that is low miles.
Bomar and I talked about this one a few days ago. Serious ghetto sled. But crazy low miles and a good price.
Anybody have any OEM wheels and bumpers laying around to trade for the ones on that beast?
- Thread starter
- #4,539
I've got a OEM front bumper. 2001
I still think I had the lowest miles on a 99 when I bought it a couple months ago.. 86k. Currently at 91k
