100 Series Front Frame Recovery Bracket
- Thread starter spressomon
- Start date
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e9999 said:details?
I'm a slow learner. Broke 2 pulling tree stumps, one trying to yank an F350 out of a ditch and 2 having me yanked out of some glorious mud holes. I've finally come to realize all should be done from the rear rather than the front, but sometimes the front has to be used. All were broken using a tow strap as well, so I have little faith in the stock units.
spressomon said:
I went out to the parking lot at lunch and did some measuring. The area on the frame where the recovery bracket will mount is about 1.5 - 2 inches below the front edge of my ARB bumper. Here's a couple pics:
trw said:
So, you've broken 5 front tow hooks?
Damn, I bet you're ready for something better about now!
- Thread starter
- #26
Greg B said:
Thanks Greg...when I get home tonight I'll do some more measuring...but it looks like my design will work just fine for you and your ARB.
spressomon said:
Yeah, I think it will work great. Including the thickness of the bracket, that should put the pin of a D-ring about 3 inches below the front edge of my ARB. That should be plenty of clearance for most pulls.
e9999 said:
Also, do you have any pics of the broken ones to see where they break at?
Spressomon,
I was going to head over to our CAD/CAM department on my campus to see what they could come up with, but I think you've hit on a good design. I would be interested in a couple for my front end.
I was going to head over to our CAD/CAM department on my campus to see what they could come up with, but I think you've hit on a good design. I would be interested in a couple for my front end.
You can just trim the stock tupperware out of the way to clearance these. Good recovery points are very important
I would also like to be put on the list for this new product. 
uHu
Bridgeburner
Is that the "long skinny" hook you've broken?trw said:
On my HDJ-100 there are two kinds of hooks:
1
One on each side of the type seen on Greg's pix above, which is not cast iron and looks pretty sturdy, although not as sturdy as the one suggested by spressomon; well, depending on the type of steel used (in both).
2
one extra on the right side of the long skinny type, which looks like cast. I suppose it is made for towing on a level surface. It's the only one protruding below the stock bumper.
- Thread starter
- #34
FYI: I should have some prices back from various machine shops sometime next week...
Calamaridog: LOL on the tupperware comment...that is great
Calamaridog: LOL on the tupperware comment...that is great
You would think the guys down in Australia would have created some of these already.
uzj100
uzj100
uHu said:
U, when I was referring to the long skinny one I meant the one that looks like a finger and goes below the stock bumper, I imagine for recovery. the "hole" ones I think you are referring to I had assumed to be just tie down points for transportation, but maybe could be used for gentle towing too?
- Thread starter
- #37
uHu said:
The anchor bracket that comes on the 100, that I believe is to anchor on the ship ride over, which is 3/16 to 1/4" plate bent at a 90* with hole, is too anemic to be relied upon...except, of course, if it's all you got
Which is what we are trying to solve.FYI: We originally designed this bracket at 1.25" thick which is designed to be used with a 7/8" D Shackle (1" pin diameter) that together provides 8.5T WLL. I thought by going to 1" we could still provide adequate strength with lower manufacturing costs...
Hopefully I'll be able to post all the data and costs for each (1" and 1.25" thick) next week...
I appreciate everyone's feedback on this...and to let everyone know I am NOT in the business of selling these things...just want to help out those that might want/need these.
Dan
D, I'm interested as well even though I've got the stock bumper. It won't be on there forever. 
