100 series front brake pads

[jestlurnin]

I just got done with popping my cherry on my first front end rebuild. Literally just got done and came inside to post this.

Ordered all my parts from CDan including new rotors and 100 series pads.

My question is..... are the 100 series pads really supposed to be right up against the rotors? I mean there isn't a c hair of room between these bad boys and the rotor. Everything is OEM pads calipers and rotors.

I had to use a C clamp to push the pistons in to even get the pads in there!!

I don't want to F up my brand new rotors if there is some "break in trick" to putting the 100 series pads on my 80.

Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated!!

 

[Ebag333]

It's fine. They will rub slightly but not bad enough to do any harm (might hear them a bit at first, it should go away).

You can break in your new pads and rotors with something like the following procedure:
Instructions for bedding in your brakes

 

[jestlurnin]

Thanks Ebag333.

Follow up question.... If i need to drive around 20 miles to get somewhere where I can do all of this breaking/accelerating etc., is it still going to be cool?

I don't think the neighbors would be cool with me doing 60 in the hood.

Thanks a ton!

 

[60wag]

I believe most people leave out the shims when installing new 100 pads. They fit better once the pads wear down a bit. Did you put the shims in?

 

[jestlurnin]

nope no shims pads are right next to the pistons.

 

[tblume]

nope no shims pads are right next to the pistons.

surprised you were able to get the pads in, how much do you think they are dragging and could this be an issue for the 20 mile drive out of town? reason I ask is the stuck caliper on an old Volvo I had caught fire after I nursed it home and the relative airspeed dropped so that everything got heat-soaked. Expensive lesson there.

were it me; I'd jump back in there and pull the shims, bed the pads to the rotors, (head out around 10-11 pm?) and at the next oil change/ tire rotation put the shims in.

 

[jestlurnin]

sorry my last post was a little confusing.

I didn't put the shims in. I put the 100 series pads in the calipers and nothing else.

My last pads were so F'd up I can't put them back in. You now have me a touch worried about the whole fire thing.

I guess I'll drive with a fire extinguisher till I get out of town and hope for the best.

So does anyone have an opinion on whether or not the 20 mile drive to get somewhere where I can seat them is going to do irreparable damage?

PS: the Nikasi oatmeal stout is da bomb!

 

[Cruisin']

sorry my last post was a little confusing.

I didn't put the shims in. I put the 100 series pads in the calipers and nothing else.

My last pads were so F'd up I can't put them back in. You now have me a touch worried about the whole fire thing.

I guess I'll drive with a fire extinguisher till I get out of town and hope for the best.

So does anyone have an opinion on whether or not the 20 mile drive to get somewhere where I can seat them is going to do irreparable damage?

PS: the Nikasi oatmeal stout is da bomb!

I think you're stressing a bit too much. With the pads installed can you turn the rotor by hand? If so you don't have any unusual amount of drag on the rotor and you don't need to worry about anything catching fire. The 20 mile drive before doing the "proper" bedding in procedure should be fine. I'd review the prodecure before heading out and see if it can be incorporated into the drive you need to make in any way. Just think of a brake shop in a busy city. They are supposed to come up with a way to do a bedding in before giving a car back to the customer (this whole idea will get people here excited, I just know it!), but you don't really hear about there being lots of problems with brake jobs because they didn't get bedded in "just right".

Do the best you can, and don't worry about it beyond that.

Also, I put the 100 seried pads in (they were pretty tight), and I threw out the shims with the old pads. Haven't missed them so far (10k miles)

Good on ya for tackling the job. The more you do the easier it gets!

 

[Ebag333]

Thanks Ebag333.

Follow up question.... If i need to drive around 20 miles to get somewhere where I can do all of this breaking/accelerating etc., is it still going to be cool?

I don't think the neighbors would be cool with me doing 60 in the hood.

Thanks a ton!

You'll be fine.

 

[jestlurnin]

Sweet. Great advice

I'm going to finish my fine holiday homebrew and head to bed dreaming of the phenomenal stopping power my LC will now have. LOL

 

[tblume]

sorry my last post was a little confusing.


PS: the Nikasi oatmeal stout is da bomb!

not confusing at all, I mis-read it entirely, hell I quoted it and mis-read it twice...

I dig the seasonal "Sleigher" myself, but the brewery is just across town so it's easy to find

no worries on the fire bit: that car was a '71 with infrequent and poor PM, it was bound to happen sooner or later as I found out when I pulled the other side apart; probably original issue calipers and way over 250K on the ODO, you'll be fine.

 

[CowboyUp]

sorry my last post was a little confusing.

I didn't put the shims in. I put the 100 series pads in the calipers and nothing else.

My last pads were so F'd up I can't put them back in. You now have me a touch worried about the whole fire thing.

I guess I'll drive with a fire extinguisher till I get out of town and hope for the best.

So does anyone have an opinion on whether or not the 20 mile drive to get somewhere where I can seat them is going to do irreparable damage?

PS: the Nikasi oatmeal stout is da bomb!

Howdy

Why you need to drive with a fire extinguisher when we have so many rainy days here ?! Just chose a hard rainy day ! Will not be hard at all !

Let us know how will work the brakes, probably I will follow you and install a 100 series pads in the future .


Enjoy the holiday homebrew and good luck!

 

[BigBear]

I am also just learning and will be needing some new breaks soon. How much did the rotors and the pads set you back? Also, are there any other pieces you guys would advise changing when going to the 100 series rotors? Thanks, Merry Christmas, and enjoy the brew!!

 

[PHIL O]

have you done the bedding in procedure already?is there any significant improvement in brake feel compared to your previous 80 pads?i plan to upgrade my brakes in the same way too.is there a feasible rear brake upgrade too?like bigger/wider pads?

 

[Ebag333]

is there a feasible rear brake upgrade too?like bigger/wider pads?

Since you have an early 80 with drums, you could upgrade the axle to the full floating with disks. That's about the only upgrade availible. You could also replace the LSPV with a simple T or a manual proportioning valve to increase rear braking power (the rear drums are very unlikely to overpower the front disks).

If you already have disks, it's not really needed. The disks can and will overpower the front, hence the need for the LSPV (or a manual proportioning valve).

 

[Cruisin']

I am also just learning and will be needing some new breaks soon. How much did the rotors and the pads set you back? Also, are there any other pieces you guys would advise changing when going to the 100 series rotors? Thanks, Merry Christmas, and enjoy the brew!!

Easy Easy there! Its 100 series pads only. Not the rotors. Do a search and you'll find lots of info on running the 100 series pads. The rotors don't fit though (I think they're 5-bolt??).

Good Luck!

 

[jestlurnin]

I don't have my invoice with me here at work but I'll check and see what it cost when I get home tonight. All I can remember is that it tacked on quite a bit to the bill. Buying a brand new birfield hit the pocket pretty hard as well.

PS I tried to fire her up this morning and it's been sitting for so darn long the battery was totally dead. Not even a click. Great.

Any suggestions on battery replacements?

Also how long before I need to service these brakes again? 60K?

 

[Ebag333]

Any suggestions on battery replacements?

I'm a big fan of the Sears marine Diehard PM-1 or PM-2 batteries. They are not cheap, but are excellent.

 

[BigBear]

"Easy Easy there! Its 100 series pads only. Not the rotors. Do a search and you'll find lots of info on running the 100 series pads. The rotors don't fit though (I think they're 5-bolt??).

Good Luck! "

Yeah, I had read here on some earlier posts that 100 series rotors wouldn't work on my 80. I am gonna need some new rotors as well and have heard CDan is the best person to contact for them. I was just curious about how much it would set me back. I am also curious about how your Birfield change goes. From what i have learned so far, I may be looking at one myself in the near future.