cruiserpatch
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Chime in if you've seen or heard of this happening to someone else- not sure if this is a "technical" thread, exactly, but it is a pretty solid argument for going with an OEM steering rack.
At Cruisers on the Rocks V (@ga12r1 ), I led a trail ride up trails 70 and 72 at Windrock Off-road park in Oliver Springs, TN.
On trail 70 we had an unexpected failure from the most capable vehicle in the crew. A 2008 LX570 on 40" tires and portals actually cracked the portal box clean in half. Once we got him to safety we continued on and up trail 72.
Dean, a shop owner from NC began to notice his steering would only move towards the RH side of the vehicle. He could not turn his wheels past dead center, especially on the LH side.
Upon first glance we thought he had lost a tie rod but we quickly found a more complicated problem underneath...
The early iteration of the 100 Series IFS steering included two bolts w/ bushings on opposing sides of the rack (one behind, one in front). On the RH side (LHD vehicles), a collar-style bushing keeps the rack planted but allows a certain degree of movement for comfort.
I often see failed rubber bushings on early and late model 100s that are heavily modified. With any amount of added weight or with plans to take the vehicle off-road at all I recommend SuperPro or White Line polyurethane bushings be used on the rack.
I've also seen a considerable amount of inner tie rod failures on 100s whether they are backing out of the racks or snapping altogether, it pays to check your inners at least annually.
Anyway, we dragged Dean's LX470 off the trail and for the first time in my memory, left a vehicle on the trail until it could be towed out.
The failure was spectacular.
Tyre pointed out that in several places along the aluminum housing, evidence suggested that micro fractures contributed to the eventual failure which ultimately presented itself in dramatic fashion.
The same night, Dean, myself and Chip Rosenberger from @BudBuilt replaced the steering rack with an auto zone special to get Dean home. Admittedly I bailed and went to bed since I had to lead trail 16 the next morning...
Moral of the story:
Buy OEM when it counts. Aftermarket suppliers use unknown material in untested designs. It's just not worth the risk.
Or just count on some young guys to help you out in a pinch and say f*** it we ball
At Cruisers on the Rocks V (@ga12r1 ), I led a trail ride up trails 70 and 72 at Windrock Off-road park in Oliver Springs, TN.
On trail 70 we had an unexpected failure from the most capable vehicle in the crew. A 2008 LX570 on 40" tires and portals actually cracked the portal box clean in half. Once we got him to safety we continued on and up trail 72.
Dean, a shop owner from NC began to notice his steering would only move towards the RH side of the vehicle. He could not turn his wheels past dead center, especially on the LH side.
Upon first glance we thought he had lost a tie rod but we quickly found a more complicated problem underneath...
The early iteration of the 100 Series IFS steering included two bolts w/ bushings on opposing sides of the rack (one behind, one in front). On the RH side (LHD vehicles), a collar-style bushing keeps the rack planted but allows a certain degree of movement for comfort.
I often see failed rubber bushings on early and late model 100s that are heavily modified. With any amount of added weight or with plans to take the vehicle off-road at all I recommend SuperPro or White Line polyurethane bushings be used on the rack.
I've also seen a considerable amount of inner tie rod failures on 100s whether they are backing out of the racks or snapping altogether, it pays to check your inners at least annually.
Anyway, we dragged Dean's LX470 off the trail and for the first time in my memory, left a vehicle on the trail until it could be towed out.
The failure was spectacular.
Tyre pointed out that in several places along the aluminum housing, evidence suggested that micro fractures contributed to the eventual failure which ultimately presented itself in dramatic fashion.
The same night, Dean, myself and Chip Rosenberger from @BudBuilt replaced the steering rack with an auto zone special to get Dean home. Admittedly I bailed and went to bed since I had to lead trail 16 the next morning...
Moral of the story:
Buy OEM when it counts. Aftermarket suppliers use unknown material in untested designs. It's just not worth the risk.
Or just count on some young guys to help you out in a pinch and say f*** it we ball
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