‘02 LX 470 Suspension Conversion - Strutmaster or OME 1.5’? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 9, 2017
Threads
5
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Location
Fishers Island
Hi,

The AHC suspension on my ‘02 LX470 is starting to act up and I’m ready to make the switch to a passive system.

I’m getting mixed advice from friends and service centers. I’m debating the Strutmaster v the 1.5’ OME kits.

I’m not a hardcore off-roader but appreciate quality parts. Cost isn’t really an issue but I don’t want to have to replace my stock size tires.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

I’m also interested in finding a reputable service center in coastal CT. Right now I’m leaning toward Mad Dog in Porchester, NY.

Thanks in advance!
 
I just went thru this. I think the best bang for buck would be to get used Land Cruiser Torsion bars for the front and the springs for the rear and buy all four new Toyota OEM shocks for $200 from eBay or Amazon.

Post a wanted ad in the Classifieds. You can usually score used parts (Torsion Bars, rear springs and shocks mounting washers) for about $300 shipped. it is CRUCIAL to get the shock mounting cushion washers because you need 4 per corner and they are about $16 a pop so it adds up! Also the new Toyota shocks come with new rubber cushions but no new washers.

Also, it would be smart to get torque arm and the piece that connects torsion bar to the lower control arm from the same used car since those are usually rust welded to the old bars in your car and having replacement parts will make the job much easier.

So parts list is:
  • Used Torsion bars
  • Used Torque arm and the other side part (that connects to lower control arm)
  • Used rear spring (you can also buy new OME 2865 for about $160 shipped from eBay if you want to have 1.5 inch lift)
  • Used shock absorber cushion retaining washers (16 in total)
  • Brand New Toyota OEM shock absorbers front and rear

Let me know if you have questions, it took me about 8 hours of misery and cursing to do the job myself but for just $500 in parts it was hard to beat!
 
Here's what mine look like when I finally got them out
20181118_223735.jpg
20181118_223718.jpg
 
For a few bucks more I got Fox shocks over OME shocks and I enjoy the ride. $40 more total for all 4 shocks/$10 per shock.

4shock pack Fox 2.0
https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/fox-2...-foxperformanceifp/_/R-BKTK-FOXPERFORMANCEIFP


Also Sway away T-bars are only $200 vs OME $300-320

OME springs are $165 almost everywhere.

Diff drop kits are $250 ave

If you are heavy rusty, you may need OEM t-bar clamps and brackets.

Not all shops MAY be willing to swap the AHC hydro parts. You will have the option to remove the bare minimum or rip the entire system out which is more hours under the truck.
 
Go OME, leave the old AHC parts there and call it a day.
It will ride better, look better, feel better, and handle loads better than the Strutmaster or Factory LC parts.
 
Thanks for all the help guys.

It’s a tough call with so many different opinions without the ability to test the suspensions firsthand. My inclination is to go with the OEM parts.

I’ll let you know how I make out.

Thanks again!
 
OME is perfect if you want the Toyota OME ride (not bad at all....quite nice actually). If you want more control or plan on having more weight (bumpers, drawers, etc), then you should consider ToughDog or IronMan foam cell shocks. No matter what route you choose, you should not just replace the coils, but the TBs as well. AHC TBs are too small to effectively handle the unsupported weight of our rigs.
 
@geanes

Are LC torsion bars all used/aftermarket at this point, or could you theoretically order a set NOS from somewhere? I've heard people adjust the existing AHC TBs but perhaps that's not a good idea? EDIT: never mind, there are a s***load of TBs on ebay, I guess I could just order those.

Are you saying an OME 1.5" is going to ride similar to OEM LC shock? That is good to know.

I'm not having any AHC problems now, I'm just planning ahead in case I start to have $$ failures in the future.
 
@geanes

Are LC torsion bars all used/aftermarket at this point, or could you theoretically order a set NOS from somewhere? I've heard people adjust the existing AHC TBs but perhaps that's not a good idea? EDIT: never mind, there are a s***load of TBs on ebay, I guess I could just order those.

Are you saying an OME 1.5" is going to ride similar to OEM LC shock? That is good to know.

I'm not having any AHC problems now, I'm just planning ahead in case I start to have $$ failures in the future.

No, the OME WILL ride different (more harsh) than OEM Toyota LC TBs, but support more weight. If you want a smooth, factory ride, OME isn't your ticket. OEM would be. Most aftermarket TBs are designed around the concept that you'll be carrying more than stock weight. Consequently, they are typically larger. As for TBs, LX/AHC TBs are definitely smaller and capable of supporting less weight. They are designed to support roughly 60% of the total weight with the AHC supporting the 40% difference. Conventional TBs are designed to support 100% of the weight with the shocks simply dampening compression and rebound speeds. So, if you crank AHC TBs too much, you put tremendous stress on them and risk negative outcomes. Laying an AHC/LX TB next to a LandCruiser (LC) OEM TB is pretty eye opening the size difference. For reference, here are the TB sizes....should show why they are so different:

LX 25.5mm
LC (OEM) 28.87mm
OME 30.5mm
SwayAway 31mm
ToughDog, IronMan, TJM 32mm
 
Ok, so the takeaway I'm inferring is that as long as I get TBs that are at least LC thickness, I'm good. Thanks for the chart. Here's my next stupid question: can I use OME or other aftermarket TBs with LC shocks, or is that a bad idea? I ask because it's probably easier to buy OME TB's than to randomly source some old LC TBs out of a junkyard. To be clear, I enjoy the ride in my LX and I'd probably just go with LC shocks if they are the "comfort" choice (I know people might hate on this idea, but it's my daily driver not a rock crawler) :)
 
You can absolutely mix and match TBs, coils and shocks. I've seen OME TBs with LC shocks and coils. I've seen OME TBs with Ironman shocks and Dobinson coils. In the end, it's finding the right mix for your preferences. Generally, the thicker the TB, the harsher it can ride (if weight isn't added). My ToughDog TBs would probably ride like crap without the added weight of my bullbar, winch and bigger battery. Just like my rear "heavy" coils....they would ride like absolute garbage (rigid as hell) without the added weight I have (rear swingout bumper, loaded drawer system and Gamiviti rack with RTT on it). I will say this....nothing, and I mean NOTHING approaches the ride quality of a well functioning AHC. The closest I would think would be full OEM (TBs, coils and shocks) followed by light partial (OME TBs, OEM coils and shocks). Ultimately it boils down to what will be your majority weight. If basically stock, I don't see any issue with OME TBs and OEM everything else. It's when you start building out your rig with all the doodads and whatnots that you need to start considering heavier duty offereings....IMO.
 
You can absolutely mix and match TBs, coils and shocks. I've seen OME TBs with LC shocks and coils. I've seen OME TBs with Ironman shocks and Dobinson coils. In the end, it's finding the right mix for your preferences. Generally, the thicker the TB, the harsher it can ride (if weight isn't added). My ToughDog TBs would probably ride like crap without the added weight of my bullbar, winch and bigger battery. Just like my rear "heavy" coils....they would ride like absolute garbage (rigid as hell) without the added weight I have (rear swingout bumper, loaded drawer system and Gamiviti rack with RTT on it). I will say this....nothing, and I mean NOTHING approaches the ride quality of a well functioning AHC. The closest I would think would be full OEM (TBs, coils and shocks) followed by light partial (OME TBs, OEM coils and shocks). Ultimately it boils down to what will be your majority weight. If basically stock, I don't see any issue with OME TBs and OEM everything else. It's when you start building out your rig with all the doodads and whatnots that you need to start considering heavier duty offereings....IMO.

I feel like this is some sage advice right here, so I appreciate the "holistic" insight into it. I do enjoy the AHC ride quality and after learning about the system I'd be willing to do normal repairs on the AHC to keep it going. I'm just mentally preparing for the possible "oh $hit" moment by having an alternative already figured out.

I consider this to be a DD on-road vehicle 99% of the time for me. I want to put the kids and the dog in it and go camping. I want to tow a tiny sailboat behind it (total weight with trailer less than 750lbs). I don't expect to put rock rails and a winch on it though. So going with LC shocks is probably the swap-out modus for me if the time ever comes.

The way I look at it, I dodged a bullet by ending up in one of my old dream cars instead of a minivan, but it's essentially going to be used like one :)

@PADDO I just saw your reply and will have a look at that.
 
I'm resurrecting this one from the dead since we already had a good discussion going. I'm still doing research on what angle I want to take with this. My plan is to figure out exactly what suspension I want, then order all the stuff and have a local shop handle it. My AHC still works ok, but the last time I checked it was 7 or 8 grads from low to high (179k and no record of replacement), so I know what's coming. I'm looking for a normal/soft ride and don't carry much stuff around with me (and have no mods). Part of my inclination to convert to a standard suspension is reliability over the next 5-10 years. I've got two kids and this is my DD.

@ClassyJalopy - Do you happen to have the part numbers for the shock cushion washers in your records? Were there any other nuts and bolts that you needed?

@ Everyone, I got a set of used LC TBs from a fellow mudder and it looks like the stock LC shocks are cheap and a lot of people like them, so I'd go with that.

However, looking up the rear coils was interesting. I understand that the left spring is taller due to the gas tank location, and there are two different heights of coils. I can't figure out which one would be appropriate, and worse off it looks like the shorter of the two sets isn't available anymore. How important is this?

Left spring - 48231-6A670 height 492 (discontinued)
Right spring - 48231-6A660 height 486 (discontinued)

Left spring - 48231-6A690 height 504 (current option)
Right spring - 48231-6A680 height 498 (current option)

Notably, both are listed online as fitting on a 2001 LC (I have a 2001 LX), and the part name codes are the same. It seems like the available factory springs are 0.47" higher than the discontinued ones and I haven't found any information on why that is. If anyone can fill me in on this, that would be great.

Then there are the OME springs. Are all OME offerings going to lift the vehicle? That's what it looks like. I was hoping they might sell something that keeps the standard ride height because OME is far less expensive than OEM. I understand that OME shocks are stiffer than OEM LC shocks, but would OME springs contribute to that as well?

It's funny how you spend four hours reading threads only to come out more confused :) but I want to do my homework on this and not rush into it.

Thanks in advance for the help!
 
@ClassyJalopy - Do you happen to have the part numbers for the shock cushion washers in your records? Were there any other nuts and bolts that you needed?

The new Toyota shocks ($200 for 4!!) come with the rubber cushion and the top nut and you reuse the lower big bolt for the shocks.
As for the washers, I never had to find the part numbers since I bought them used from a forum member. But you can get the part numbers here:
FRONT:

REAR:

Finally, don't sweat too much on the rear springs. I would suggest going with the lightest load rating Old Man Emu (OME) springs. They are good quality, don't mess with your ride and are inexpensive.
 
Finally, don't sweat too much on the rear springs. I would suggest going with the lightest load rating Old Man Emu (OME) springs. They are good quality, don't mess with your ride and are inexpensive.

Thanks for the link, that interactive diagram is great. Just so I'm looking at this correctly, would the four washers be 2x of 48510B and 2x of 48510Q?

Are the OME coils all going to lift the vehicle? I mean, I wouldn't care if it went up a half an inch or something, but I'm trying to keep it as close to stock suspension geometry as possible. It seems like all of their options lift 1.5" or 2.5" but maybe I'm misunderstanding what this means.

When all of this is over (eventually) I'm going to do a writeup/summary.
 
I think you will need 2x of each part number you listed per corner. I also think front and rear part numbers are slightly different. If you are hell-bent to buy new, call @cruiseroutfit and he will sort you out and will then blow your mind with quick shipping!!

OME springs are purported to give you a slight lift but I found out that my stock LX with 3rd row removed didn't really get any lift with the base level OME springs.

Also, it's worth mentioning that your tires have a huge impact on the ride quality. Without the magical cushioning of the Nitrogen filled magic globes, a load rating E KO2 will be a harsh ride.
 

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