Do these starter contacts look newish?

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gbell210

gbell210

Joined
Jan 11, 2005
Threads
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Location
Poulsbo, WA
I just put on a newly rebuilt OEM starter from Cdan (Thanks) and was wondering if the contacts of my old starter are actually still good? (I haven't cleaned them.. thats how they looked when I opened it up)
IMG_0910Medium.jpg


Maybe they need some light sanding?

Reason I replaced the starter: Every once in a while it wouldn't start (no click). If I tapped on the back of the soleniod it would start everytime. So I figured contacts. BUT there is no part# sticker on this starter I have so I wonder if its aftermarket? Also, if the contacts in the picture are bad, could I replace them with OEM ones? Dan said there were 2 starters... how can I tell which one it is if there is no part# on the thing anywhere? Thanks.
 
I can "tell" that they are relatively new in that on my other Toys with the same type contacts after 60K+ they have about as much LEFT as yours have now! I'd "say" those were changed 10 to 20K ago. Of course mileage dont matter as much as how many start cycles but based on my starts vs. mileage, that's my experience with them wearing. HTH. :cheers:
 
Actual starter:

IMG_0914Small.jpg


IMG_0915Small.jpg


I think from being in OH, salt took a toll on the outside.
 
That copper lug on the solenoid lead looks pretty gnarly. I'd suspect it before the plunger or contacts. My guess is if you remove the end cover from the field frame and armature you'll find more corrosion, which is why banging on it would make it kick.
 
Is there anyway to tell which starter it is? I'm gonna wire brush all the contacts and the copper lug. One thing I forgot to mention was that the nut that holds the larger contact on was slightly loose, I'm thinking this may have added to the problem because:

The first time it never started I banged the hell out of the actual Starter motor cover with the jack handle.... nothing.... tapped the solenoid cover and starts immediately. After that I became more gentle with it :) It only took a light tap with the back of a small Mag Light to get it to start every time.

So, basically I'm thinking I have a spare starter. But I still will open the end cover and take a look.....because I can :)
 
gbell210 said:
I think from being in OH, salt took a toll on the outside.
Click to expand...

Ain't that the truth.

When I did the contacts this past Friday on my 97, the started was completely rid of any markings that designated anything resembling a part # or even a make.
 
gbell210 said:
BUT there is no part# sticker on this starter I have so I wonder if its aftermarket?
Click to expand...


I don't have any suggestions, but I have the same issue with
my starter having no sticker on it with a part number.
Could be it corroded off as it is a Northeast truck.
My starter works fine, but I'm sure it's a matter of time.

How much was the OEM starter from Cdan?
 
OEM starter was $247.22 including shipping by UPS
I believe shipping was about $13 and there was a core charge of around $27 (doesn't really make it worth sending back) I don't know if this matters or not, but the OEM one was painted light gray instead of the black/rusty cover seen in the pics above. And the part# is on a metallic foil sticker.

After taking the rest of the field frame and armature apart, the O-rings were intact and I didn't see any corrosion at all inside. So. the only thing I can figure now (without mounting it on again and testing) is one of the nuts holding in the contact was a little loose, and would prevent a good connection every once in a while plus maybe some pitting on the plunger. I guess I have a spare for now or to trade.

If anyone wants pictures of the rest of the disassembly, let me know and I'll post them.

Thanks for those posting about what shape the components were in, I've never taken apart one or seen new contacts so I didn't know for sure.
 
Mine looked like that when my starter gave me problems. I took it to a place that rebuilds starter and alternators and they promptly gave me the exact parts. $15 for the contacts and plunger for my 88 fj62. Starts right up. If you live in a big city you might find a small shop that rebuilds starters.
 
the contacts do look good pretty fresh, when they go bad the contacs are almost flat.

I compared your pictures to a 2.0KW starter part number 28100-66060 I have on hand and they look the same, right down to the casting lines,

The 2.0KW is the most common, the coveted 2.2KW was only sold in 93 and is no loger availabe through Toyota. there is also a 1.4KW out there, not sure what the story is on it.

found this thread with pics of the 2.2 and 2.0,

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=58595

you do not have a 2.2

last question is what does the 1.4 look like? if it looks diffrent externally from the 2.0 then you have a 2.0, if it looks the same then it still needs more ID work.
 
Starter with a "funny" part number

I have a starter with a "funny" part number:
Toyota: 28100-66060-84
Denso: 9722809-326

Can anybody tell me please what are the part numbers for the contacts and the plunger?

Thank you
 
cruiserdan said:
28100-66060 is a 2.0 KW starter.

You need 28226-66060, 28226-72010 and 28235-54380
Click to expand...


I think the -84 suffix has a meaning, soemthing like it is rebuilt, Call Dan and he will tell you what it means wile you order contacts and the plunger.
 
RavenTai said:
I think the -84 suffix has a meaning, soemthing like it is rebuilt, Call Dan and he will tell you what it means wile you order contacts and the plunger.
Click to expand...

I PM'ed you for Dan's contact info.
 
landtank said:
The locking tab on that black connector is gone. That wire would not have been held in place correctly and most likely the reason for the no click.
Click to expand...


Rick, can I getcha to elaborate on this; I'm not seeing the locking tab there at all ... IOW, not that it is broken off but just that it is not there at all. I'm trying to rebuild my starter and the replacement bits are slightly different in that those plastic pieces that come with the kit have no tabs on them, just a flat plastic piece with a protruding plastic cylinder that marries up with the starter housing. Also, as I asked in another thread, the FSM makes much mention of the orientation of those plastic pieces "up - down" and "long - short" but I simply cannot see anything at all other than square on the kit's pieces. Any thoughts on this? Thanks. :cheers:
 
Happy to elaborate, I was completely wrong. My wire to that connection wasn't latching and it looke dto me that the part on the solenoid was broken and I had ordered a new solenoid from CDan. Soon after that post the new solenoid came in and it would appear that jmy problem is with the wire end an not the solenoid side. I had forgot to correct my post, sorry!
 
landtank said:
Happy to elaborate, I was completely wrong. My wire to that connection wasn't latching and it looke dto me that the part on the solenoid was broken and I had ordered a new solenoid from CDan. Soon after that post the new solenoid came in and it would appear that jmy problem is with the wire end an not the solenoid side. I had forgot to correct my post, sorry!
Click to expand...


Cool, I was wondering ... I had already observed something strange from what the FSM stated regarding the plastic insulator piece, something strange on my own plastic insulator pieces, and then something from this thread that just boggled my brains.

I think this is just one more obvious example ( god I hate to say this ) of how reading too much thought into doing exactly what the FSM says is or illustrates is not appropriate when right in front ofmy face I could see that there was clearly something different in design between what the FSM states and what the replacement parts actually are. Crrrappp, well maybe this is one step forward on my OCD outcome!!! :D :flipoff2: :D
 
First sign of trouble is when there was just a click two days ago. I banged on the stater with the wooden end of a hammer (like post #1 above) while my wife turned the ignition key and it started. The starter is the 2.0kW model in a '97 LX450 (28100-66060). It looks like the one in Post #4 above (rust and all).
Talked to the Toyota man in town and read many of the posts here so I replaced the contacts (the Toy shop did not have the plunger and said that they have never had to replace one!).
Well, same thing, no start, just a click.
Is there anything else I can re-build on this strater (cables perhaps?) or should I get another one OR is it possibly the something else?
Thanks in advance.

PS. I saw the PHH for the first time (I almost turned to STONE!).
 
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