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Oct 27, 2003
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North Cadillac
The clearcoat on my front fenders was failing miserably. The carfax didn't show any sign of a wreck when i purchased the truck, but i guess i didn't look close enough. Both fenders had been removed judging by the markings on the bolt heads. I guess whoever replaced the fenders didn't do a great job of prepping.

Combine my failing clearcoat along with the tight trails here in the east, my fenders looked horible. I had half a gallon of durabak left over from the initial fender lining, so i decided to kick it up a notch.

Removed the fenders, abraised them with a 3M scotchbrite pad. Then cleaned them with laquor thinner and started applying the stuff. Put on about 3 coats.
durabak session 001 (Small).webp
durabak session 005 (Small).webp
durabak session 006 (Small).webp
 
some more.

I think now, in a month when i get my ARB, put the rack back up top and attach some limb-lines from the bull bar to the rack, i shouldn't worry too much about tight trails.
durabak session 010 (Small).webp


durabak session 012 (Small).webp


durabak session 013 (Small).webp
 
Not exactly my cup of tea but is does bring up a question.

How long did it take you to remove a fender and what other bits did you need to remove along with it?

As much fun as it is to do a snorkel I wonder if it would be almost as easy to pull the fender. I need to do some paint work on the roof and replace the windshield. Removing the snork is a pain in the ass and I am thinking about pulling the fender instead.
 
Interesting solution. I feel your pain with the east coast pin striping, same color too. How hard is it to remove that stuff should you one day decide to repaint?
 
Dan, actually removing the fender is not that bad. I did break a clip per side, so now each fender is one bolt less attached than before. To remove the fender i removed the corner lense (one screw and pull out), the cowl must be removed to access one stinking mother-f'n bolt under it (the cowl only takes 5 screws to remove it). If you have sliders you may have to lower them because there are two bolts on the bottom of the fender that are tucked up really close to my slider. The rest of the bolts are a very easy 10mm socket or wrench.

Honestly, i bet it took me 20-30 per fender. Not too bad.

I can understand not everyone liking this mod. For me on the east coast, my fenders were really getting butchered.

I have no idea how hard it would be to remove. Maybe some paint thinner, maybe some gas, maybe a flapper wheel on a grinder. Not sure.
 
I assume you removed the wiper arms as well then?
 
No, i removed the screws on the cowl just enough to slide it towards the motor and tilt it up so i could get a wrench under to remove the one bolt. No need to remove the arms.
 
Good information. I think then it would be easier to remove the fender than the snorkel. Less than an hour start to finish vs at least two to remove just the snork, plus a bunch of scraped knuckles and cramped arms.
 
Also, FWIW, to remove the fender the calking between the fender and inner fender lining must be cut and replaced. No big deal. Just take a finger count before and try to end up as close to this number as possible when done.

Bill
 
Bill, what caulking do you speak of? THere is a rubber gasket that lies under the screws holding the cowl in place. Also, the fender tucks up under the edge of the windshield weather stripping. But it slid right back where it came from and didn't appear to have any adhesive on it.
 
I’m sorry. Maybe it is year specific. On my 97 this stuff was as hard as nails. I cut it with a utility knife and a few choice words. I think I got the knife started in and had to bang it around with a hammer. Since it is an irregular surface the knife blade would dig into the metal and break the blade. Of course if I knew what I was doing, there maybe an easy way to get the stuff loose with heat or something. Whatever it is it didn’t want to give it up. I hope the picture shows the location. The fender is upside down and it’s the pink colored stuff.

Bill
Fender-Caulking.webp
 
That is a factory sealer Bill and you are right. I forgot about that. CJ's fenders appeared to have been off before and were not "glued" back on. I may have the glass guy look and see if he can work around the snork before I decide.
 
Mine did not have that, that i noticed.
 
That confirms your suspicion that the fenders are replacements. Whoever put them on did not replace the seam sealer.
 
scottryana said:
*Hijack*

Dan,

Can the toyota seam sealer be bought? I have a FJ55 hood that has had the renforcements/supports come unglued and now rattles against the skin of the hood.

Thanks,
Ryan.

*Double Hijack*

Also what about the inner fender coating? Can that be purchased as well?
 
:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
 
Are you gonna coat the whole truck? I'm thinking about doing mine in the new Durabak "sand" color.
 
No plans on doing the whole truck. The only other thing i might even consider is the front (very front edge) of the hood. I have some really deep scratchs on it also.

Also, i guess i don't really need the sealer now since the whole fender has vibration reduction "on" it. :)
 

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